What do you think I should do?

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NC-Expy

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So I went to Super Trucks today (a place that does off road work for SUVs and trucks) and they told me they could install my spacers and do my torsion bars for around a hundred bucks. But the guy told me that he could probably only get about an inch with the stock keys and that I need to get new shocks for the back. He gave me a discount on some skyjacker shocks at 39.99 originally priced at 59.99 and matched the labor costs from another place that's a half hour away from me.

He told me not getting new shocks is a bad idea and I should get aftermarket keys...

Any input/opinions? I don't want to go the wrong direction and f*** something else up on the truck cause I do NOT have the money to spend fixing it. I just got my pay check and have a little spare money to spend and I don't want it to have to go for another payment... I still got another 2 months of payments for my transmission being rebuilt... goddddddd when will it rain money?
 

walnuts4x4

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IMO... you can get more than an 1" out of the stock keys... and you can run the stock shocks with a coil spacer... there are a few people on here that have done just that... I think the shop is just trying to get more $$ out of you... worse case have them install the spacers and do the TT and new shocks yourself and save a lot of $$... a TT and shocks only need basic hand tools... IE.. ratchet, extension, sockets and some PB Blaster
 

panda24619

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i got 2" out of mine. i like to jump my truck on a dip over by my house. works great still! haha but also you can run stock shocks. just get new ones when those ones wear out. youll be fine. do the tt in your drive way. and shocks in your drive way. front took about 30 mins by my self. rear took a while since the gas tank is a pain and in the way! but once its on its all good. you can even do the spacers your self, if you have a bottle jack.
 
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NC-Expy

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I know I can do all the work myself, I just don't have the time or the patience. I'd much rather pay a "professional" to do it for me.

He said I should only get rear shocks cause he said something about the stock ones not being long enough cause the spacer going over the coil.

Idk, either way. I don't want to spend 250 bucks on labor just to install one two pieces of polyurethane that I bought for 70 bucks and to twist some bolts and what not. But I know that my vehicle has been sitting on the same shocks for 11 years and I could probably use some new ones. So I'm okay with getting new ones, I just don't want to pay so much for labor that only costs an hour.
 

walnuts4x4

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I would look into the Procomp line of shocks.... JDMitchell put them on his with a spacer lift and he did research before ordering them and far as I know he has no complaints.... and shocks are really easy to install... I would save some money and do it yourself one weekend... very straight forward and saves the $$ for other projects
 
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NC-Expy

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If one of you guys is bored and wants to do a good visual thorough walk through of how to stick the spacers on top of the coils and twist the torsion bars I'll do it this weekend in the garage or at one of my friends places
 

Remo

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If one of you guys is bored and wants to do a good visual thorough walk through of how to stick the spacers on top of the coils and twist the torsion bars I'll do it this weekend in the garage or at one of my friends places

Sorry to get us sidetracked, but I'm curious...
Does it matter if the coil spacers go on top or on the bottom of the coil?
 
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NC-Expy

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to my knowledge you are supposed to put the spacer on top of the coil. But now that I think of it I don't see why you couldn't put it on the bottom of it.
 

mudryder18

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IMO.. i would let the shop put your spacers in for you. And you should get the new shocks cause that is a good deal on skyjacker shocks, i just bought 2 skyjacker nitro 8000 from 4wheelparts for $82, but put them in your self and do the TT yourself. You only need a jack, 2 jackstands a c-clamp(or torsion key clamp) and a wrench(cant remember what size).
 

JDMitchell

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I installed stock sized PRO-Comp ES9000 shocks with my 2 inch spacers and they work perfectly. I had nearly every part off of my rear suspension when I did my shocks and spacers though. I was replacing my trailing arms and every bushing at the same time. If I had just been replacing the rear shocks and putting in the spacers it would have been between a one and two hour job. The upper bolt for the drivers side rear shock is the toughest one to pull out due to having to reach through to get to a socket on the bolt.

For $100 if you don't want to deal with it then go ahead and pay the shop, otherwise get a case of beer and have fun wrenchin' with a buddy. I will always choose the beer and a buddy route since that leaves me more money for the fun stuff.
 

Thermo

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The spacer needs to go on top of the coil. If you look, the top of the coil sits in a bucket where the bottom is sitting on a little hump. By placing the spacer inside the bucket, if/when the coil shifts, the bucket will hold it in place. With the spacer on the bottom, if the coil slips, out pops the coil. I know with my lift, if I do a lot of twisting up of the truck, the tops of the coils move around and I will develop a little squeak that I hear with each bump. So, I do know that the coils move. But, this is also under the most extreme of conditions. IF you are planning on sticking on the highway, then the chances are lower.
 

Canadian Expy

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Spacers at the top ...I did mine in a couple hours easy to do!! If your only going TT in the front even eaiser ..I did Keys there a pain in the a$$:Wedgie: I didn't put new shocks in and it's fine. Waiting for the 6" Fabtech then I'll get shocks. Beer+Friends= more $ for more toys!!:flamingdevil:
 

KWT2000

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i got 2.5" out of my stock keys and i put my spacers on the bottom, either way not hard to do as stated just a few hours...

i put longer shocks on the rear that were 3" longer than stock but it doesn't matter cause the sway bar link will hit the track bar on the passenger side ( gotta fix that)

i also went with the zone 2" shocks on the front ( but not needed i was due for shocks anyways)
 
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