O/D light flashing

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Ionizer12

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My od light on my 06 started flashing the other week. Only issue I noticed was it was sluggish engaging first, as in when I accelerate from a stop it goes but has very little power then it shifts into second and beyond and is fine, and you feel the immediate difference. Took it to an AAMCO to get codes run and all and it's showing the P0731 code. He said that there was low pressure and that was why it was doing it but he couldn't determine what was causing it and was wanting me to pay $400 just to drop transmission and try and figure out what exactly was the cause. I changed out the one speed sensor on a whim to see if maybe that helped but still doing it. Don't have a ton of money so was hoping someone might have had a similar issue, but I fear I'll need at least a torque converter if not a full rebuild. Still need to take it to a different place to get checked too and get a second opinion. Any help is appreciated.
 

tilliepeople

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I am having similar problems with my 01.
Took it in and had a fluid and filter change and it is much better .
My problems are much greater than you described and I do need to replace my tranny but it eliminated the sluggish starts .
I have over 180k on mine and was told NOT to have a flush as it needed a little dirt to keep the bands working .
He also suggested just a drain and fill but I knew the fluid was more like mud so a filter was in my plans.
Bill
 

Tim p

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My od light on my 06 started flashing the other week. Only issue I noticed was it was sluggish engaging first, as in when I accelerate from a stop it goes but has very little power then it shifts into second and beyond and is fine, and you feel the immediate difference. Took it to an AAMCO to get codes run and all and it's showing the P0731 code. He said that there was low pressure and that was why it was doing it but he couldn't determine what was causing it and was wanting me to pay $400 just to drop transmission and try and figure out what exactly was the cause. I changed out the one speed sensor on a whim to see if maybe that helped but still doing it. Don't have a ton of money so was hoping someone might have had a similar issue, but I fear I'll need at least a torque converter if not a full rebuild. Still need to take it to a different place to get checked too and get a second opinion. Any help is appreciated.

I'm have the exact same problem that you described on my wife's 06 expy i was wondering if you got the trans flushed and filter change if that fixed the problem or what you had to do to fix the problem. Thanks
 

drewactual

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the flush is dangerous because most goons who do it reverse flow.... that knocks material out of nooks and crannies and introduces them into the flow again, and it usually ends up in valve bodies and solenoids- either of which is no bueno.

if you wanted to flush is properly, you'd have to find a shop that uses a heated flush machine and dials pressure to that of the transmission- heated so the entire circuit gets flushed... it's uncommon that folks at shops take the time or have the interest in doing the job right.

o/d flashing is the transmissions way of telling you it has an issue- it doesn't mean it's overhaul time, though i don't think i've ever encountered a transmission shop who didn't turn to "overhaul" as the first option... there is a lot of witchcraft and black magic in those things, and shops leverage that for gain at your expense.

your p0731 is a ratio code- meaning the transmission can't shift into first gear... because it is solo, it means the electrical points are checking out but it just won't shift. so... drop your shift lever to 1st and see if it engages firmly. does it? then it's likely a solenoid that is causing your grief. does it not? you likely have band issues- first thing to try is a simple band adjustment.

not to reverse course on my prior comments, but bands needing adjustment demonstrates wear and weakness- and if it is a band issue, then there are other things that are about to happen. you can buy several thousand or even tens of thousands of miles by carefully adjusting the bands. follow the instructions to the letter.

solenoid packs aren't exactly cheap, but they're hella better than overhauling. they can cause issues if not recovered. if there is a lot of sluff (clutch material) in the fluid/pan and on the magnet, then it stands to chance the solenoids are holding a fair amount, too.

determine your issue- if it's mechanical or electrical by following the two simple steps above: again, though: drop the trans using the gear shifter into first- does it bite and engage without complaint? then it's likely a solenoid... does it not? it is likely a band...

then drain drop pan adjust band and swap solenoid...

then refill with fresh fluid.......... if you want, do a redneck flush, which cost some coin due to the price of fluid, but get three gallons of juice.. warm the transmission to operating temperature... open them up and stage the juice within reach of the fill tube, and a funnel in the tube... disconnect the RETURN line from cooler and point it into a bucket- use extra hose if you have to... have a partner sitting in the drivers seat and fire her up- pour fluid in at the same rate of discharge... have them shift slowly through the gears with their foot firmly on the brake (wouldn't hurt to engage parking brake and chock wheels)... keep pouring/collecting until you've spent two gallons (discharge should look fresh at this point).... kill engine, reconnect return line to transmission... top her off with the third gallon (won't use a lot of it).... drive for a week or so (say, a thousand miles), and drain pan refill fresh.... those lines and that trans is likely now as clean as any machine would make it.

DON'T overfill... ATF expands tremendously. you'll want to aim for the cold fill line top even on a transmission that is 'operating temperature'. when that transmission goes to work and heats that stuff up it'll expand on into the 'hot fill' area with ease.
 

Tim p

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the flush is dangerous because most goons who do it reverse flow.... that knocks material out of nooks and crannies and introduces them into the flow again, and it usually ends up in valve bodies and solenoids- either of which is no bueno.

if you wanted to flush is properly, you'd have to find a shop that uses a heated flush machine and dials pressure to that of the transmission- heated so the entire circuit gets flushed... it's uncommon that folks at shops take the time or have the interest in doing the job right.

o/d flashing is the transmissions way of telling you it has an issue- it doesn't mean it's overhaul time, though i don't think i've ever encountered a transmission shop who didn't turn to "overhaul" as the first option... there is a lot of witchcraft and black magic in those things, and shops leverage that for gain at your expense.

your p0731 is a ratio code- meaning the transmission can't shift into first gear... because it is solo, it means the electrical points are checking out but it just won't shift. so... drop your shift lever to 1st and see if it engages firmly. does it? then it's likely a solenoid that is causing your grief. does it not? you likely have band issues- first thing to try is a simple band adjustment.

not to reverse course on my prior comments, but bands needing adjustment demonstrates wear and weakness- and if it is a band issue, then there are other things that are about to happen. you can buy several thousand or even tens of thousands of miles by carefully adjusting the bands. follow the instructions to the letter.

solenoid packs aren't exactly cheap, but they're hella better than overhauling. they can cause issues if not recovered. if there is a lot of sluff (clutch material) in the fluid/pan and on the magnet, then it stands to chance the solenoids are holding a fair amount, too.

determine your issue- if it's mechanical or electrical by following the two simple steps above: again, though: drop the trans using the gear shifter into first- does it bite and engage without complaint? then it's likely a solenoid... does it not? it is likely a band...

then drain drop pan adjust band and swap solenoid...

then refill with fresh fluid.......... if you want, do a redneck flush, which cost some coin due to the price of fluid, but get three gallons of juice.. warm the transmission to operating temperature... open them up and stage the juice within reach of the fill tube, and a funnel in the tube... disconnect the RETURN line from cooler and point it into a bucket- use extra hose if you have to... have a partner sitting in the drivers seat and fire her up- pour fluid in at the same rate of discharge... have them shift slowly through the gears with their foot firmly on the brake (wouldn't hurt to engage parking brake and chock wheels)... keep pouring/collecting until you've spent two gallons (discharge should look fresh at this point).... kill engine, reconnect return line to transmission... top her off with the third gallon (won't use a lot of it).... drive for a week or so (say, a thousand miles), and drain pan refill fresh.... those lines and that trans is likely now as clean as any machine would make it.

DON'T overfill... ATF expands tremendously. you'll want to aim for the cold fill line top even on a transmission that is 'operating temperature'. when that transmission goes to work and heats that stuff up it'll expand on into the 'hot fill' area with ease.

I am able to put the gear selector in 1st gear i did find an issuse in my fuse box fuse #14 blown one of the components that uses this fuse is digital transmission range sensor (DTRS) when i replace it and put it in drive i can tell 1st gear engages and I'm able to drive then after driving the od light starts flashing and i notice 1st gear will not engage when in drive and fuse #14 is blown would a bad DTRS cause a fuse to blow thank i have an 06 expy EB
 

drewactual

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good to see your issue is electrical (likely) and not hard parts becoming bunches of hard parts....

it's a $40ish part... the harness could easily have been scraped while dropping pan/swapping filter... if it's blowing a fuse, it's likely that it's shorting/grounding.... one thing you don't want is loose voltage in an electronically controlled transmission....

drain the pan for a couple hours- if it's warm it's better... drain it into a clean (really clean) bucket... since it's new it's worth saving and re-using (that stuff is expensive for what it is).... get a diagram and look at the solenoids and powered sensor packs... the one you seek is:

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H+VnsynGS7nxL+8naAZQWSTMjZxiiOJzujiMz4ZDmo92xt1047uMFjDkfecOR4NatL3sYyzPQZfRZw9wF7CMc3a+Q1KTpze7dly9Twd3gGXrkZD3RxceWWixRNvppoPoMv0T1rhuh9Zx1P85Lsd1t3JHyNjjbec6DhCMrvcffAIP4bjUkBdGXr3G3eL6qFmEl+Nrn8REwWLsX4yMulwNSvoVabdjd6KiiwMzcc3vOrj+175dScySVuVQREQRf2+bvyVNEyaIFxp3lzmjXu3CznAdCAfC6+dWOwnEAD0OhX2yRfIqI+0LsdjnLqjZ9opTcugyETz+D/AEz8vBBBDqMPGKI35xn1h+X3vr4rzRuLSCCQ4G4IyII5civbW0EtPIY5WOjkabFrgQQcjbrqPishkbJlJ6LuEg4/nHtfXxVF8dayX+t6Dz/1mjJ3/dYP/s3PmCrp6VzCA4ai4cDdrhza4ZOC8NRSOZ62h0cM2nwP6LPQ1zoxhID4yc43aeLT7DrcR80F7SvXBDcYibD6rMyGIjvGOvHfMH1mngx3Px4qsED6h1mCzPlbmoMDy6Q4WDJYKuLu9V0VV3dMyw1+Z/wtTTULp/vX5MvYdfLkgwbEpsbrkXb7XXoVsqrZMLGPkYzMAkZmwPgVsYKZrWgMyA48/wA3NJY8TS1x1GduXmg42hN5GnW5z63XQGJ8JDm+lGCSGngSLEjrb+cUqdjtaMTAARxGn9w4fmGnJZKOtLThfp1+Qd+hGRQZnTsdm1wt4G/nyV1rtNiDlw/XkqmlMbhNC1j7ZmORuJjhxDm+03wI8tVtH7f2c5v/ALTLHN/s1Dmsv0vw6FpQa6SzSwuIaPS10yAWHYzBUVgda7WjGb6HDYNvf8RB/tWp2nXYnEnCDwaM2sHAX4nn+mi33Z5C57ah4zcS0f2i/q+Z+Sg3dTXSh5cHnBci2Wg1dfxuqPr8WUkbXjwytysbr0yws9BpBGFtsxrck3+Flf8AZYjxw8v3zWNq1Ttj0UhsYSxzvcy4akaD4LkdsUZp5nRERuAsWuDTdzXeqbDjr8FIX2fu89Vx+9MeKtkaMWKMRj0QDYsaHXAOtnFaiMjd067uu+a2MNwl5ZG5veho42ta/S91oI24jfjzN7/89F28e/M5b3ZhaRmXMBmEbn3uJO61BvmWh1ieSxbsbvSSyhrG4p3kuAsLRAm5ldwDhfqG34kgFN+1V3X3ekfI2ONt5zm0EejELXL3nTHbn6txqSAp43W3cjoosDM3nN8h1ef0Gth14kkq3dXdqKiiwt9J7rY5CM3Hlzwgk5dSTcklbxVBERUEREBERBwm+24h2jUxue5og7stebfeBzTdmDxvrfLDxuoY317O6rZ5Li3vYL5TNBIH5x7GQ45Z6lfUNlSSMOBBAIIsQRcEciOKg+NoZXMuNWnVpzB8iqmnY/8ApnCfcccv7XH6H4qZ+1Ls7o4YnVkJMHpNDmi3dekbB1vZz8s8rKJtr7Empi3vo3MDwHMeQQ17To5p8FRg2LGe/ETwQJA5r2niA0uB8nAEH911FfVR00eFtsR0/c8gtFsGR5niZkb4wL8D3b7WPBdZuNuFNtCYyT+jEx1nu5kHNjOBPyGp4AqPJuRuVPtWbG8lkDT6UhHwa0HU9OGp5Kba/s/oZY2RiIx923C18biHW5OvcSc/SB6LoNm7PjgjbFEwMY0WDR9TzJ5r1IIe3k7MpoCZKMmdnGMkCQeB9V/yPiuYpN2a6V2BtHMDe13sLGjrjeLW8Lr6IRBGO0ezEinjdA8faWt+8BJ7uU6kC59AjgdDbMZ3UZ7Q2ScTmFhjkYSHRuFnNPG18hfl6ruHNfTNlz29m6cVc25+7maDgmaMx+Fw9tvQ+VlB86U874TY5i9gNM+QvofwnPlda/aVeXmwB+Buu32/sR8Uhp6lgZLa4OrJWjLEPfbfwcL8Lrj67Zjo3WBPH0SfodHN+aK0hjPEeSkbcCqbgDQ3JjAwgX9J2pcRzJK4d0Dhq0j5/Mara7E2gacEjO7gevVESnduItBuMPEZX8FbNRQuAPdgZXxel8RnYjVcezexupy/nJbyh29E4Xub5WzFuuSmhsY9lxsb3rrm1y1p0uNDfion2oJPtD3PBY97zI251aSQ12Xgfgu63l3oYIMDHZm9ufTzv9Vws9S+Z/evtiDQ2wHAadNSfirIJB3b3Gq6uKKoifCIpBiDnPfibYlrgWBuZBBGqlzdbduOijwtOJ7s3yEWLj0HstHADqdSSse4VJ3Wz6WO1sMTb9SbknzJJ81v1QREQEREBERAREQEREFksQcC1wDgdQRcHxBWDaGzop2GKaNsjDq1wBH+D1XqRBG3/wDHKNtQJY5ZWMBJ7q97XBBDXnMCxIzv0spDpaZkTQyNoYxosGtFgPJZkQEREBERAREQa3b2xIayIxTtxC92kZOY7g9jvZI/wbhQ9vjuhNTA42OmhDvu542kubfQSNFy08CfVPS9lOaKaHyz9jB9SQX5HX5LDLQvGrQ7wsf8r6b2lsGmqB99TxScbuY0m/MO1C5jafZhRyZxOlpz/tvu3zbIHC3hZFQBJCBq0j4j6q1kVtD+n0Uu7R7Latt+4qIZRylDmH4tDwfgFztbuHWs9ahLusTmOHwDgT8EHBGG5vdbndfY7qieNjfVxtBd+IkYWjmb5nkAt1Q7m1L3ANoJ8z7bXMb5l9hZSnuTuUaUtmqC0ygEMjZ/SiuLEgkAufa4vkLEjqg7GCIMaGjINAAHQCwWREVQREQEREBERAREQEREBERAREQEREBERAREQEREBERAREQLIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiAiIgIiICIiD//Z 41D%2BIW32oYL._SL500_AC_SS350_.jpg

check carefully the wiring to see if any of it is exposed, or if the connector isn't seated properly...

there isn't much to it... it's a messy job, but an easy one.
 
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