why not go with cat deletes. Unless you have local emissions testing that doesn't allow it. I cant do it here in CA and parts here are about 3k. I believe you can get away with taking out the rear 02 sensors with no codes... There are others here that have done it and hopefully they will...
Hey red.... did you recently change the compressor or has it been changed before? Could haveva bad condenser. .. partially clogged. Or your txv could be going out as well
You can replace the clutch, but you have to remove the compressor to do it. . The guy at the shop is doin you a favor by doing the whole compressor... if your clutch is going out the compressor is right behind it. If you only do the clutch you will be doing a compressor later
My 2004 4.6L didn't have one either Baker. Mine is just the accordion tubing to the corner and to the Intake. All single wall (except for where the MAF sensor is of course).
I would never ever put sealant into a closed system. This is just a restriction waiting to happen. If you put sealant in, it will react with any moisture in the system and harden inside. That cheap fix may result in a full system replacement. Compressor, condenser, evap , and lines can be...
if you discharged all your refrigerant, you don't have to disconnect the compressor. The system has a low pressure cut out switch that prevents the system from operating without refrigerant.
Pcm reset via battery disconnect. No change and added 1500 miles with no change. Guess I will take it in to get scanned and maybe something can be seen on the monitors. Did the gotts mod and saw a pretty good increase in milage on my trip. Over 400 miles a tank and one of them was 85 octane...
Could be the starter solenoid not engaging the teeth on the gears. may turn into hitting it with a hammer trick. You could pull the starter and have a buddy ( a strong buddy) manually turn the engine while you inspect the flywheel teeth. Just a place to start.
I just got new discs and pads from autozone. Dust is minimal and breaking is good. My problem is the god awful sound during breaking from 15-0mph. I guess I just have to jack it up take em off and exchange them. Its like I get to do this for fun lately. ugh.
Find the large of the two lines to the compressor. See if it is cold. Should be. Also check and see if your heater valve is open by finding the 2 heater/coolant lines to the firewall and see if they are hot. If so and your heater is not on, then that may be the culprit.
also +1 on the blend...
Thanks for all the info. That's pretty much what I was looking for. I was thinking there were just a couple contributing sensors (MAF, IAT, and O2 sensors) and then the IAC was adjusted to satisfy those sensors. I did semi clean the TB right about when it started by spraying the TB cleaner...
Ac on or off. Only condition this happens in is when the engine is warm. Cleaned the maf with the spray designed for it and followed instructions as I understand it can be a $100+ mistake. Just trying to figure out which sensor is screwing with idle control so I can replace it without...
Okay... here is the patient 04 expy 4.6L
NO Codes.
when engine is warm the idle surges. Jumps from 700-900 and also makes a humming/fog horn noise between the MAF and the TB... seems like the IAC is constantly opening and closing raising and dropping the idle rapidly. I had changed the IAC...
I went through 2 with the same thing... oh yeah, forgot to add that I get an awesome (sarcasm) fog horn kinda sound between the filter and TB. I will start this in a new thread.
Check the larger of the two lines and and follow it from the compressor back to the firewall. It should be on that line. Also be careful to keep the can upright and understand that you are going to lose the refrigerant again eventually. I would check the heater valve first to make sure you...
I would change a drier on an ac system any time the system has a leak or opened for any time the system is opened. Replacing every year is a little over kill. I would go every 3-4 years maybe. Not a bad idea to add dye to identify future leaks and doesn't hurt the system. Flushing the evap...
I dropped my exhaust myself from the flanges back... cut out my cats. And welded in aftermarket 49 state bought off ebay.... but here is the catch. Getting them shipped to you. I had them shipped to a freind then shipped to me. Im in ca so I got a 1800 quote for bank 2 alone... 3k is about right.
Mine jumps in drive and warm... actually always when its warm... goes between 6 and 800. All new vac lines and tcv. No codes either... any ideas. Pcv is also new with vac lines
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