1998 limited slip

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Captain Morgan

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Last year one of my wheels fell in to a pothole under the snow while barely making progress at all. The wheel that sank would just spin, and unbeknownst to me, when I put on the gas it just rooster-tailed the mud and sank further.

This led to my having to winch out, and actually uprooting the first tree that I cabled to.

I don't want this, and from my understanding I have no choice in the matter other than swapping the pumpkin and axles.

Can someone shed some light on the terminology of these parts and the labor \ cost of trying to remedy this?

TIA


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tonydiv

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For the rear, there are many choices for limited slip and locking differentials.
You don't need to change out axles though. If you have an open differential in the back, you may be able to find a 'lunchbox locker' for the rear. It installs easily in the existing differential carrier and you really don't need any special tools.


For the front, your only choice would be a selectable locker, like an ARB or e-locker.
 

FordandPolaris

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Last year one of my wheels fell in to a pothole under the snow while barely making progress at all. The wheel that sank would just spin, and unbeknownst to me, when I put on the gas it just rooster-tailed the mud and sank further.

This led to my having to winch out, and actually uprooting the first tree that I cabled to.

I don't want this, and from my understanding I have no choice in the matter other than swapping the pumpkin and axles.

Can someone shed some light on the terminology of these parts and the labor \ cost of trying to remedy this?

TIA


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What is the axle code on your door sticker?
 
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Captain Morgan

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THX for the info.

The rear is E = E4OD ( I'm pretty sure this is what I saw on the pumpkin when I crawled under there once before )

The axle is 17 = ratio 3.55C non-limited slip?

It sounds like the rear solution is an affordable self installation option, where-as the front would be more expensive and potentially a shop labor.


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tonydiv

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You could also look at this as an opportunity to change the gear ratios to give the truck some more pep. A jump to 4.11 to 4.30 ish gears would make the truck run and shift more like it did when the stock size rubber was on it.

Mine had 3.73 gears in it stock and I was going to bump up to 4.56, running 35 inch rubber.
 
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Captain Morgan

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If you have an open differential in the back, you may be able to find a 'lunchbox locker' for the rear.

Do you have any brands or places that carry this in mind?

For rear and front?

Ok here's a quick and dirty lesson on traction 'systems' for lack of a better term.

Limited slip differentials are old, mechanical technology. New electronic systems are smart, they can send varying amounts of power to each individual wheel on a 4 wheel drive truck. In order to do this, the vehicle needs to have open differentials as well as a non-locking center differential (transfer case, if you will), as they use brake force to help distribute the power. For most driving, these systems are far superior to a simple LSD.

Any links for the "new electronic systems" since I already have a "non-locking center differential"? Are you referring to the "Electronic traction control (2003–present)" in this link? If so, is it possible to add this to the 1st Gen?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Expedition#Traction_Control


And the newer mods are superior to the original optional "Traction-Lok" system?



THANKS
 
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tonydiv

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Those 'new electronic systems' are built in to newer vehicles. It's not something that you can add to an older truck. They use individual wheel braking to send power wherever it's needed.

If you have an 8.8" rear end you can put an aussie locker in it in an afternoon. Unfortunately, if you have the 9.75" rear end, there don't seem to be any lunchbox lockers available. There are a few limited slip and locking differentials available though.

You could also put selectable (manual) lockers in the front and rear. I would also add a 4x4 Posi-loc cable system that controls the front axle disconnect.


It all kind of depends on your budget. You may be able to find an entire axle assembly in a junk yard with a 3.55 limited slip in it and swap it out for a couple of hundred.
 
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Captain Morgan

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Oh so something like this in the $300ish range?

aussie locker install how to: solid axle 8.8 (pics+video!) - Ford Explorer & Ranger Resource "Serious Explorations"®

Lockright (Lock Right) lockers, Powertrax, best prices, lowest cost locker kits

How to gain more traction on a limited budget


If I understand correctly, these are subject to wearing out like the clutch in a std transmission?

No tire bark?

"Under power the locker will force both tires to spin at the same speed, as you let up on the gas it unlock, this will allow one tire to spin faster than the other. This allows you to go around corners without the barking associated with a spool (solid locked diff.)."


THANKS AGAIN.


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FordandPolaris

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Yes limited slips can wear like that but it probably would never happen during its lifetime. Mine still works at 220k. Here is a website that helps identify what type of rear end you have (8.8 or 9.75). Like Tony said, it makes a difference in what is available.

What rear end ratio is in my Ford , do I have positraction? - Drivetrain.com

Go to the very bottom of the page. It has a diagram of the 8.8. For whatever reason, they do not show the 9.75, but it is a similar shape to the 10.25 they have on there. If your cover does not match the 8.8 diagram (rounded rectangle with 10 bolts), you have a 9.75.

Also tire bark refers to the inside tire skipping during a turn due to both tires spinning the same speed when locked. Not sure if you were asking what that meant or if you were asking Tony if what he recommended would produce it.
 
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Captain Morgan

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Thanks again, I'll crawl back under there and snap a pic or two and look it up. This was a SSV but I don't know if that made any difference in the size of the rear end.


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