2004 shakes violently when braking

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tilliepeople

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My 2004 shakes really bad when braking.Steering wheel does not shake though.
I checked the rear brakes and found a parking brake dragging but after repairing that the hammering went away but it still shakes violently. Calipers are good and pads are wearing evenly and rotors show no sign of warping. i am drifting toward an ABS sensor bad but do not want to just start throwing parts at it .
It is getting to cold to work on it in the driveway so I hope to have a pretty good idea where to go if I need to take it apart again.
Also note it drives straight with no drifting
 

Hamfisted

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Do you have a code reader that will read ABS codes ? That or take it to an alignment shop and let them check it out. Worn out inner tie/outer tie rods may cause it to shake. But off the top of my head I'd say front rotors are warped. They're cheap to replace.
 

Hamfisted

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Yes, but take it to a shop and let them look at it. It's almost impossible to properly diagnose something like this over the internet.
 
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tilliepeople

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Thats kinda where i was at
It just doesn't act like what you would expect
Thanks for the help
 

MesaGuy

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First guess, its a warped rotor. But if its shaking badly, you ought to be able to see such warping. (Have you pulled both the front tires and actually inspected the rotors on both sides?)

But after that: Shot steering linkage and stabilizer linkages in the front, or the control arm bushings. If you live in a winter cold climate zone, and its a 2004, the bushings and linkages are almost certainly shot. I'd guess control arm bushings first, probably the lower arm on one side or both.

My 1999 (in sunny near perfect Climate, no road salt, California) has nearly shot bushings, everywhere. Upper and lower control arm bushings (the rubber things at the arm pivots), the rubber boots on all the ball joints in the steering linkages are shot (but the ball joints are still OK for now), the stabilizer bar bushings are all cracked, and the stablizer linkages had actually failed (those I replaced). It ALL needs to be replaced, but I have been waiting for better weather to go do it.

If you live in a snowy or very wet winter zone, and especially if they use road salt where you live, then a 2004 model would be all done in the same way by now. Mine is only hanging in there because of mild climate.

When the lower (especially) or upper (a bit less) control arm bushings go, then on breaking, things will shake pretty badly.

You can inspect to some extent the control arm bushings, but the critical part is on the inside of the donut hole where the bolts go through the rubber cylinder, and you cannot really inspect that. But you can infer what kind of bad shape its in, if the outside of the rubber cylinders are cracked. If the outside is cracked, then the inside is shot (stretched out, compressed, cracking, and loose), and the lower and possible upper control arm bushing are done.

Though it is a very Big Bill, I would take it to a private mechanic that services Ford's, or specializes in suspension work, and work out a deal to get it all done at one time, because there is a huge labor savings. e.g. Get the upper, lower bushings, ball joints (whole upper control arm if he wants to go that way), Idler Arm, Steering (Pitman) Arm, inside and outside steering linkages, AND the stablizer bar bushings, and the stabilizer bar link connectors, ALL replaced at one time. I'd also have the proper alignment hardware installed (if missing, some Ford model years do not supply the cams), and you will need an alignment when that is all over (get that done at an alignment shop if the mechanic doesn't have an alignment setup). If you have it done all at once, you ought to be able to negotiate a 30% savings on the labor. So wait for the quote, and then ask for 30% off the labor quote. [He is saving perhaps 70% of the labor by doing it all together, but you won't ever get that. But 30% is reasonable.]

Unless you are going to do it all yourself. If so, and you are going to go "weekend of work at a time", then I would buy a new upper control arm with installed ball joint, And if you don't have a press, then a whole new lower control arm also, with bushings installed (rockauto) and the lower ball joint, and do that first on both the left and right front.

But a 2004, that has never had any of the front suspension elements changed, in a harsh winter climate, is due up I'm afraid. The rubber parts (bushings and boots) are all failing. When the bushings go on the control arms, you tend to get shaking, particularly when the lower control arm bushings go.
 
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tilliepeople

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I did replace a sticky caliper and that eliminated the steering problems BUT now the whole truck shakes, but I can stop in a straight line.
I am thinking it's probably in the rear but when I took them apart all I found was a parking brake chattering.
The ABS light came on about a week ago so it may be a bad sensor although it was shaking before that.
Someone borrowed my OBD2 checker and did not return it, so I guess the first step is to get a new one.
It is getting too cold to work in the driveway so I may break down and take it to a shop but I'm afraid it could run $2000 when all is said and done
 

MesaGuy

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If the ABS light is on, then its probably that.
Coder Reader with ABS, $49 Code Reader (click link to left). Is cheap, has ABS. Personally, I'd get one with ive data as well, and spend a little more, like $80. But $49 is not bad for ABS codes.
 

MesaGuy

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Or just drive it over to OReilly Auto or Autozone or NAPA and ask them to read the code on it for you. That's free, except the time.
 

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