2007 Expedition trailer wiring

[tk1971]

OK, the weather cooperated for a couple of hours today.

This is the stock 4-pin connector bracket on the hitch. I drilled 2 holes in it and painted it with Rustoleum to get it ready for the stainless steel bracket.

This is the 304 stainless steel bracket I'm making to mount the 7-pin Hoppy adapter:

It's almost done. The 4-pin Ford wire connects to the Hoppy connector. I still need to solder the remaining wires, put them in a loom and secure the loom so that it looks stock. But here is the Hoppy installed on my homemade bracket. If nothing else, I can tow my box trailer since the Hoppy has 4-Pin and 7-Pin connections.

The weekend's winding down. I tied up all the wiring and will finish this hopefully next weekend.

tk

 

[chevy24d]

Nice job TK - Thanks for the pics - they will help me!

 

[chevy24d]

TK - Can I ask why did'nt you just drill vertically (under the hitch) and mount the provided angle bracket to the bottom of the hitch?

 

[tk1971]

In order to keep the Class IV rating on the hitch, it is my understanding that it is "bad" to drill holes in it. But the original bracket for the 4-flat plug is welded onto the hitch and not really part of anything structurally important. That's why etrailer.com has all those 7-pin adapter brackets that either zip tie or tied to the hitch instead of being drilled into it.

tk

 

[chevy24d]

Wow - and I thought I was **** - I might do the same Although, I doubt (2) 1/4-20 tapped holes will really alter the strength of the hitch. I will have to think about this now.... Thanks -Mark

 

[trdragons44]

any body got any ideas for mine?

i don't wanting it hanging to low.

 

[tk1971]

I would either use this:

http://www.etrailer.com/pc-BRACKET~18136.htm

or this:

http://www.etrailer.com/pc-BRACKET~18156.htm

This is assuming 2 1/4" tubing, they have one for 3" tubing as well.

tk

 

[chevy24d]

TK and TR - I made a bracket picking up the opening in the stock 4-way mounting bracket and even eliminated any drilling. I have attached the link.

http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh92/boatrboy/Expedition - 2007/?action=view&current=IMG_1709.jpg

TK - can you elaborate on the reason for cutting the wires and where do they go on each side of he connector?

Thanks

 

[tk1971]

chevy, that's some fancy machining. Nice bracket.

As for the wiring, the only wiring I had to cut was under the hood on the stock harness connector (from the fuse box side). That's only to route the 12V and the reverse to the back.

At the back of the vechicle: The 4 to 7/4 pin adapter has a flat 4 connector that connects to the stock 4 pin harness from the Expy. The electronic brake wire is already there, tucked away on the harness. The e-brake, relayed/fused 12V and reverse wires need to be connected to the connectors on the new 7 pin. I didn't cut any of the stock wires.

Here is how it now looks like:

I had to use 2 wiring looms, so along with the stock one, that's 3 total. The original Ford harness to 7pin connector was zipp tied and tucked up into the bumper skin above the hitch. All wiring looms were tied together with zipp ties.

Hope this helps. Now I gotta go and get the Radiator/Tranny-cooler.

tk

 

[tk1971]

One more thing for anyone wanting to do this, but didn't go through the entire thread. The non-HD tow Expies have the same fuse box under the hood. Putting a 30amp fuse and relay in place will get a fused/relay-controlled 12V to the hitch wiring harness connector up to the engine compartment. You will have to run a 10 gauge wire to the back of the vehicle to get the trailer charging 12V back there.

There is also a 15amp fused reverse 12V at the fuse box that ends in the engine compartment harness. There really is no need to pull this one, as you can get a reverse 12V by tapping one of the reverse lights at the back of the vehicle. But since I was pulling the 12V, putting another wire in the flexible wiring loom is really no work at all.

tk