35" tires on my 98' ex
- Thread starter chuckh
- Start date
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Lane24
technical advisor
Read this thread.... should help you.. Can be done. --------> http://www.expeditionforum.com/f47/will-315s-fit-9074/index3.html
Add a body lift, and for sure. But like the thread above states, can be done with some trimming.... good luck
Add a body lift, and for sure. But like the thread above states, can be done with some trimming.... good luck
Last edited:
I've got 35's on mine with only 2" in the rear and about 2.5 in the front...
Very minor trimming done and minimal rubbing as well...
My tire size is 325/65/18... equivalent to a 34.6/12.8/18, but I could run a 35/12.50/18 very easily...
Once I get the 3" body lift I'm going to be tucking 37's under her.
Very minor trimming done and minimal rubbing as well...
My tire size is 325/65/18... equivalent to a 34.6/12.8/18, but I could run a 35/12.50/18 very easily...
Once I get the 3" body lift I'm going to be tucking 37's under her.
Thermo
technical advisor
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Chuck, will the tires bolt on, oh yeah. Can you drive down the road, been there, done that without any spacers or torsion bar cranking. Will you rub, at any point that the road is not flat. TRUST ME!!!!! Been there, done that.
The rear is not much of an issue really. As long as you stick with a properly size rim (in this case, you are limited, so an 8" wide rim with 4.5" of backspacing is about all you have options to use) you will be able to run the tires with the torsion bars cranked and the spacers in the rear.
With that being said, I would also recommend that you do 2 other mods to ensure no rubbing. The easier one being a good trim on the lower valance. What you will find is that you will need to trim it so the curve of the wheel well is followed very well. A few drives to see if you are still rubbing will be needed and additional cutting as necessary. The other mod a few people have passed on because of what you have to do. In short, you pull the wheel well liner out of the front wheels, you take a 3 pound hammer and you bend over the seem that joints the side wall to the firewall (only need to bend over the last inch), but you will need to bend over the bottom 12" or so of this seem. From there, you will need to put the wheel well liner back in and then drill a hole through the wheel well liner that also makes it through this folded over edge. From there, you can put a short bolt through the fender liner and the folded edge. This will hold the fender liner out of the way and give you plenty of room to run the tires. Without this mod, the tires are going to either touch the fender liner or you will be missing by about 1/8".
I am running 37x12.5's on only a 4" lift. I have done the above mods plus a few others to make the tires work.
On a side note, you will also want to get a new VSS gear for your truck. They are like $10 to buy at the dealership and take all of about 5 minutes to put in. You will want the gear for a 3.31 rear end. This will restore your speedo to near accurate indication (this makes the assumption that you are starting with the 3.73 rear end). Otherwise, you are looking at having your speedo off by about 17% (or, when the speedo says you are doing 60 mph, you are really doing 70 mph). With the speedo off like this, it really raises hell with your gas mileage (even after correction). Getting the speedo correct again will gain you back some of your mileage that you WILL LOOSE.
Granted, if you are interested, my truck is for sale and you can have 37's right now, regeared, lifted, whole 9 yards. Just saying.
The rear is not much of an issue really. As long as you stick with a properly size rim (in this case, you are limited, so an 8" wide rim with 4.5" of backspacing is about all you have options to use) you will be able to run the tires with the torsion bars cranked and the spacers in the rear.
With that being said, I would also recommend that you do 2 other mods to ensure no rubbing. The easier one being a good trim on the lower valance. What you will find is that you will need to trim it so the curve of the wheel well is followed very well. A few drives to see if you are still rubbing will be needed and additional cutting as necessary. The other mod a few people have passed on because of what you have to do. In short, you pull the wheel well liner out of the front wheels, you take a 3 pound hammer and you bend over the seem that joints the side wall to the firewall (only need to bend over the last inch), but you will need to bend over the bottom 12" or so of this seem. From there, you will need to put the wheel well liner back in and then drill a hole through the wheel well liner that also makes it through this folded over edge. From there, you can put a short bolt through the fender liner and the folded edge. This will hold the fender liner out of the way and give you plenty of room to run the tires. Without this mod, the tires are going to either touch the fender liner or you will be missing by about 1/8".
I am running 37x12.5's on only a 4" lift. I have done the above mods plus a few others to make the tires work.
On a side note, you will also want to get a new VSS gear for your truck. They are like $10 to buy at the dealership and take all of about 5 minutes to put in. You will want the gear for a 3.31 rear end. This will restore your speedo to near accurate indication (this makes the assumption that you are starting with the 3.73 rear end). Otherwise, you are looking at having your speedo off by about 17% (or, when the speedo says you are doing 60 mph, you are really doing 70 mph). With the speedo off like this, it really raises hell with your gas mileage (even after correction). Getting the speedo correct again will gain you back some of your mileage that you WILL LOOSE.
Granted, if you are interested, my truck is for sale and you can have 37's right now, regeared, lifted, whole 9 yards. Just saying.
Expeditionary
Full Access Members
just spend the $200 and get a body lift
