98 expedition 4.6 engine swap

[Yupster Dog]

Ford made many different versions of the 4.6l. There is a Windsor and Romeo versions. There is Mustang/crown vic/town car version. There is a 32v INTECH version. There is a 3v valve version. The Romeo has an aluminum block and was used in Mercury Mountaineers and V8 Explorers. Ford Trucks used the Windsor, with a cast iron block/Al heads(vin code L). A guy on Youtube did the Romeo/Windsor swap, without to much mods. It worked, but had swap/save various parts. If its 'L' code vin on both trucks it should work, but only long block.

Also the vin code (8th digit of vin) L there is a difference in the flywheel and how it connects to tranny. When I had my 02 expy 4x2 4.6 2v (Vin code 6) I went to swap engine with an L and found out the hard way. The way the difference was explained to me was different engine codes came from 2 different engine factories.

 

[Vigilante]

I did a 2001 4.6 swap into my 99, with the PI heads. Let me tell you that I’d rather buy another expedition than to do that job again.

First things first, removing the engine. This isn’t actually too difficult. The motor mounts are not difficult to reach, but the transmission bell housing bolts are hard to reach. Especially the two at the very top. You cannot see them without an inspection camera. And if they’re as covered in oil as mine were, you won’t be able to find them.

Once you have those bolts out, hopefully you’ve already removed the radiator. Because the firewall basically slants from top to bottom, the rear two cylinders are effectively BEHIND the firewall (at the top). So the engine has to come forward before it can come up and out. I was able to remove the radiator and AC radiator and keep the radiator support in place and remove the engine.

Once the engine is out, then you get into the nitty gritty. “Oh this is old so I’ll replace this...and this...and that...and this.” I spent another grand plus just on sensors and parts on all new bits so I wouldn’t have to do the job again. Because of my general distrust of autozone and oreilly brand parts, I went with OEM on the hardest to reach components.

Putting the engine back in? Took me multiple tries on multiple days. I had a forklift instead of a picker and I can tell you that I had to sacrifice my windshield to fit the engine in properly. At this point you’ll do best removing the radiator support and any grille components so you can bring the engine straight in. The block is long and you’ll have to articulate it down to get it over the top most part of the firewall, get the motor mounts properly lined up and be able to attach it to the transmission. If you haven’t already done so, a great time to do the motor mounts, transmission mount and the torque converter.

Learned a lot and replaced a lot. I mean, I trust my rig to take me anywhere. But would I do it again? Hell. No. I would’ve rather saved the money for a down payment or moved on to another project.

If your expedition is irreplaceable, by all means go for it. But since the prices on first gen Expy’s continue to fall, I’d highly recommend buying another Expedition. I spent over $4500 on my engine, accessories and misc parts and tools. And that’s not putting any value on my time.

 

[TobyU]

I did a 2001 4.6 swap into my 99, with the PI heads. Let me tell you that I’d rather buy another expedition than to do that job again.

First things first, removing the engine. This isn’t actually too difficult. The motor mounts are not difficult to reach, but the transmission bell housing bolts are hard to reach. Especially the two at the very top. You cannot see them without an inspection camera. And if they’re as covered in oil as mine were, you won’t be able to find them.

Once you have those bolts out, hopefully you’ve already removed the radiator. Because the firewall basically slants from top to bottom, the rear two cylinders are effectively BEHIND the firewall (at the top). So the engine has to come forward before it can come up and out. I was able to remove the radiator and AC radiator and keep the radiator support in place and remove the engine.

Once the engine is out, then you get into the nitty gritty. “Oh this is old so I’ll replace this...and this...and that...and this.” I spent another grand plus just on sensors and parts on all new bits so I wouldn’t have to do the job again. Because of my general distrust of autozone and oreilly brand parts, I went with OEM on the hardest to reach components.

Putting the engine back in? Took me multiple tries on multiple days. I had a forklift instead of a picker and I can tell you that I had to sacrifice my windshield to fit the engine in properly. At this point you’ll do best removing the radiator support and any grille components so you can bring the engine straight in. The block is long and you’ll have to articulate it down to get it over the top most part of the firewall, get the motor mounts properly lined up and be able to attach it to the transmission. If you haven’t already done so, a great time to do the motor mounts, transmission mount and the torque converter.

Learned a lot and replaced a lot. I mean, I trust my rig to take me anywhere. But would I do it again? Hell. No. I would’ve rather saved the money for a down payment or moved on to another project.

If your expedition is irreplaceable, by all means go for it. But since the prices on first gen Expy’s continue to fall, I’d highly recommend buying another Expedition. I spent over $4500 on my engine, accessories and misc parts and tools. And that’s not putting any value on my time.

View attachment 29060

Geez...you had a bad experience. I put an 06 bus/moving van engine in an 01 Excursion.
Smooth as silk. Pull radiator first but leave condenser. Pull intake and but leave wiring harness on engine ans swap later. Cut both pipe to exhaust manifold bolts from underneath with cut off wheel. Leave manifolds on engine. Trans bolts easy to get too most from bottom top two from top IIRC- I used gearwrench ratcheting box ends. Leave compressor sitting on frame and PS pump on other side. Motor mounts easy to take off bolts. flexplate cover 2-3 bolts and then 4 holding flexplate to torque converter, undo main 10mm multi connector harness connection and there is a smaller one too IIRC. Put jack under trans and lift a 1/2-3/4 inch. Hooked very short chain right against engine almost lower than valve covers, noticed it was easier to pull out if I turned it sideways. I will have to find my pics but I have a V-10 hanging there 1/4 to 1/2 out turned completely sideways....transverse V-10 Excursion!!, lift it above core support and turned it back forward.
I did the engine swap and never pulled the hood off. It wasn't in the way.

I got great used super clean inside and out engine for 500 and only replaced, oil pan gasket(had to swap oil pan and pick up tube since different chassis) intake gasket and exhaust manifold gaskets, the plugs were fresh in the replacement engine but 2 were looser than I like, all cops original but low miles.
I see no reason to replace sensors and things that are not bad I'm not paying OEM prices.
I only had 138.00 in gaskets, oil/filter, antifreeze, new grade 8 bolts for exhaust manifolds and 4 more to pipes, drill bit and tap for the 6 that broke off when doing exhaust manifold gaskets. I could have probably gotten by with leaving them alone since it had good miles but I didn't want to risk an almost impossible job in chassis later. After the fact it didn't matter. The vehicle body went to pot so fast after that it is now a junk it so sell engine and trans and junk body. So now I have this perfectly running 06 6.8 and 4r100 trans in this beat up rusted shell that I have to do something with to maximize the money out of it.

Put engine in in Aug of 15 and only put 20K on it. I only drive that one 4-5k a year.
So the old gaskets would have saved me about 25 bucks and 2-3 hrs of time tapping holes.
Anyone want to buy a good 6.8 and/or trans? You pull or pay more and drive the whole thing home.