A/C clutch clicks but...

[Trueno]

...clutch doesn't engage. A/C failed quickly over the past few days, reared its ugly head right after accelerating (3000-3500rpm burst) up an onramp to the freeway. Only a few spurts of AC after that.

Tried to add 134 (there went $23 ) but it's full.

Watched the clutch and can hear it 'click' like it's cycling but no motion at all. Doesn't 'suck to the rear' to close the air gap or anything so I'm assuming she needs a clutch. Plan is to swap without opening the system, preferably with the compressor in place.

Still got a lil bit of youngster left in me so I think it's worth a try, what say the mob?

t

 

[JUST4FUN]

I suggest if the clutch is bad replace the whole thing just my opinion

 

[stamp11127]

Check for power at the plug first. If the low or high pressure switch trips then there isn't power to the compressor. If there is power but the clutch isn't engaging it is obviously worn out. The compressor isn't far behind it also.

What was the low pressure reading and outside temp when you tried to add the refrigerant?

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

yeah, for a simple swap, you will just need to have an ac shop evacuate the system of freon (illegal to knowingly release R-134 to the atmosphere) then you have to know how much oil they recovered then recover any extra oil from the old compressor. add that exact amount back in on recharge.

I rented a gauge set for $50 and a vac pump for $150 or $200, I can't remember. you will get the cash back when you return them. you can order some r134 online but stores also sell it but for more $$.

when you evac the system go ahead and pull and inspect the orifice tube for debris or signs of black death. This is mine after 230k (when the PO had the compressor bypassed for the same issue you've had I believe) Here is a comparison from black death and new orifice tubes.

 

[Trueno]

I suggest if the clutch is bad replace the whole thing just my opinion

I trust you would be discreet in using Western Union to wire $800 for parts and tools into my *****ian bank account? If you would be so kind, it would expedite matters greatly.

viva John Wayne!




eta: wow, can't even use the word Ni ge rian

 

[Trueno]

Check for power at the plug first. If the low or high pressure switch trips then there isn't power to the compressor. If there is power but the clutch isn't engaging it is obviously worn out. The compressor isn't far behind it also.

What was the low pressure reading and outside temp when you tried to add the refrigerant?

Temp and gauge both around 85.

I would think there's power to the clutch, it just isn't engaging. Maybe I wasn't clear...it 'clicks' almost as if it were cycling on/off, every 20-30 seconds or so but the front plate doesn't move rearward to the magnet/coil. I usually associate the clicking sound with the plate moving to the rear or when it releases from the magnet. Sheesh, $100 just for the clutch.

Got a guy here in the hood that wants to trade a 2000 Expedition XLT w/5.4 that doesn't run, he's open to trading it for a gun, might take him up on it.


t

 

[stamp11127]

Do you have manual or EATC? If yours is manual I can understand hearing one click but not the cycling. If you have the EATC I'll look into the cycling - dont understand why it would cycle on/off since the pressures aren't tripping the limit switches.
On the otherhand if the clutch is engaging then then low side press is high. Do you have a set of gauges to read the high side?
One thing comes to mind though, if the.clutch uses a keyway it may have sheared off. We have always replaced compressors as a unit - none of the clutches have failed.

 

[Trueno]

Controls are manual.

Starting to recall a few small episodes of it not cooling here and there in the last week. Turned the main selector OFF and waited 10sec, then back on at MAX with low fan speed and I could feel very cold air coming out the vents.

Accelerated on down the street and the air turned warm/ambient (not HOT), slowed down to an idle but it didn't cool again. Rear air followed the same pattern so it's not the blend doors(?)

t

 

[stamp11127]

Trueno, the air gap on the clutch is adjustable, range is .014 - .030" measured in three places. You'll need the clutch holding tool and access to the center bolt in order to make adjustments. Probably with an impact.

Send me your email in a pm...

 

[Trueno]

Trueno, the air gap on the clutch is adjustable,

Starting to second-guess myself now as to whether what I actually heard was the clutch mech or not. If it were, then it stands to reason that the plate would have moved SOME kind of distance.

To add insult to injury...just got back from the junkyard, bought a coil off a 5.4, not sure the year but it doesn't fit my 4.6. The plug is different, 5.4 coil has an internal shoulder that prevents my 4.6 plug from going all the way in. The 5.4 coil also has larger spades versus smaller on the 4.6 version, pretty sure I know where I'll be headed come Monday.

{crying smilie goes here}