AC compressor removal

[Notmyidi]

Well hell you got this covered, my brother does commercial, even though we both have license in both, we have a hard time transferring to eachothers specialitys

For example, he does my house ac and I do his car ac

A ac supply store or oriellys should have a vacuum gauge. And if you can use your work vacuum unit you'll be fine

If you fill it I believe head should be about 250 and low should be about 50-60, it was 112 ambient when I did mine so yours will be different

Use some of the neutralizer when you
Pur on the new comp, I figure you know your stuff but I figure is say

It's 62 (3.879 lbs) oz of 134a if you havea rear air, and 11 oz of pag 46
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[shadow460]

Yeah, neutralizer is never a bad idea. Johnstone Supply has it for less than $10 a bottle. That'll prevent me replacing a condenser or (yikes) the front evaporator anytime soon.
I didn't know how much oil it would take, though. I just assumed a new compressor would come pre filled. All the Copeland Scrolls I've installed always had it. Even the little Matsushita compressors that Goodman used for a while are pre filled.
My mechanic said they typically didn't replace the dryer unless the compressor had locked up. I'm a little iffy on that myself. I've gotten by with it a time or two, but they clog up over time. I always soldered new ones in on both high and low sides if I opened a system. My compressor turns freely by hand, and the last time I turned on the air by accident, the rear vents blew a tad cold. Knowing I'd blow the oil out, I shut it off immediately. I don't always trust the low pressure cutout switch.
Said mechanic offered to install the compressor and charge they system for $200 if I provided the parts and the freon. That's provided the dryer is OK, though. They say that often times the dryer's fittings get stuck in place.

 

[786jayone]

The drier and metering device should also be change. We just had our a/c compressor only, changed on our church van. We ended up having to do the job again because the metering device went bad. Just my thought. Definitely recommend changing the drier anytime the system is opened.


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[Notmyidi]

Yeah, neutralizer is never a bad idea. Johnstone Supply has it for less than $10 a bottle. That'll prevent me replacing a condenser or (yikes) the front evaporator anytime soon.
I didn't know how much oil it would take, though. I just assumed a new compressor would come pre filled. All the Copeland Scrolls I've installed always had it. Even the little Matsushita compressors that Goodman used for a while are pre filled.
My mechanic said they typically didn't replace the dryer unless the compressor had locked up. I'm a little iffy on that myself. I've gotten by with it a time or two, but they clog up over time. I always soldered new ones in on both high and low sides if I opened a system. My compressor turns freely by hand, and the last time I turned on the air by accident, the rear vents blew a tad cold. Knowing I'd blow the oil out, I shut it off immediately. I don't always trust the low pressure cutout switch.
Said mechanic offered to install the compressor and charge they system for $200 if I provided the parts and the freon. That's provided the dryer is OK, though. They say that often times the dryer's fittings get stuck in place.

Hell I thought Johnstone was a Oklahoma local thing.

My brother does Eddie current testing

Do the drier, but it might be aluminum to steel fittings, electrolis is a pita sometimes. In fact at work I'm laying in 22 ft each of ac lines because I twisted a drier in half on a carrier tie in system on a paratransit bus

Some times they are prefilled sometimes not, last time I did it, no. So I poured some in and spun the compressor and filled it up essentially, took a note of how much I filled it then added the.remainder upon recharge

From my stand point I don't think its not a hard job, if your able to use your work equipment then all you'll need to worry bout is the remove and reinstall

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[Notmyidi]

Well ill be your an okie, I'm in tulsa

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[shadow460]

Yep, I'm in Oklahoma City.

My dryer has the bolt up type fittings. If they're badly stuck, I may take my chances with the old dryer. If not, the changing it will be easy. IIRC, the orifice tube is in one of the lines leading from the dryer.
Either way, I'll definitely be buying the compressor soon even if I have to put it up while I save money and/or wait for the dryer and orifice tube to arrive in the mail.

I've got all the required hand tools and a couple of gauge manifold sets. I'll have to borrow the vacuum pump from Autozone, but that's no biggie. Their loan a tool program has saved my tail a couple of times now on things I would use once in a blue moon.

 

[Notmyidi]

Yep the orfice tube will be in one of the lines leading to or from the drier, hemostats are your friend for that job. Or the accumulator (same thing depends on who talk to)

Try being a mechanic I got a whole drawer of 3/4 inch stuff I don't use anymore (including a 1200 dollar 3/4 impact) but if I get rid of it ill need it the very next day

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[Notmyidi]

Find out the part numbers and prices, I get a hekl off a discount from the ford distribution wharehouse, might be able to ship it to you cheaper than in store ill pm you my cost

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[shadow460]

Cool. I have the compressor's part number in the notes on my phone. I found a reman unit for $106 total on ebay. AZ wants $160 for reman. The dryer is $40 and shipping on ebay and around $80 locally. I haven't checked prices on the orifice tube.

I'll check XL Parts on the dryer and orifice tube. They want almost $300 for the compressor, though, which is too much IMO.

 

[Notmyidi]

I'll call my ford parts guy tmrw afternoon. Orfice tu e will be 5-10 dollars max

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