Front end rubbing/grinding noise

[Bosco123]

My '07 Expy XLT with 249k is starting to make a grinding rubbing noise up front. I suspect one of my hubs is going out but not sure. Never had issues but recently drove up the mountains in TN/NC I switched to
4(A) (road ice) and drove about 290 miles on it. It should not be an issue since 4(A) is designed for use on pavement. Any ideas? Noise is intermittent, I drive below 35 mph and will come on off, but it usually stays on for about 10-20 seconds, I switched to 4(A) and noise goes away, turn back to 2wd and noise comes back. I lifted the front of the expy and I have no lateral play in my wheels.

 

[Frank Wilson]

I'm having the exact same issue. I've read that it could be a differential spring that's worn.

 

[RedExpy]

i had an issue with my vacuum line where the actuator wasn't retracting all the way in 2WD... I wonder if the actuator is bad..I would think if it goes away when you put it in 4WD, then its the actuator......


. per the YouTube vid i saw.. seemed like an easy fix... if that's the problem..here is link to video


I would think it would be the same for the Expy as the link is for the front of F150... but anyway......

be interested in what it ends up being as I listen to the creaks and moans mine makes with 193K....

 

[Drouid]

Hi,

Had a similar issue, I believe the most likely culprit is the IWE system. Things i would check in the order of likelihood,

1) IWE one way vacuum check valves (easy to replace/test). You can look for them past the iwe vacuum solenoid (which is located on the radiator fan shroud, on the passenger side). Take them out and see if you can blow air in both directions. If you do (even if it is harder to blow air from the black plastic side) then replace them.

2) IWE vacuum solenoid. With the engine running in 2wd, unplug the line from the top port (the one feeding vacuum to the IWEs). If you get no vacuum (or very little) then replace the solenoid.

3) Vacuum lines. Use a vacuum pump to check for leaks (loss of vacuum).

4) The IWEs themselves. Again using a vacuum pump. I forget what the actual numbers are (in terms of how much vacuum to apply and how much vacuum should be lost per minute), but it should tell you if they are the cause.

I would start with the simplest test first. But I am pretty certain that it's a vacuum lose in the IWE system somewhere.

You can also bypass the solenoid and plug the vacuum line that starts at your brake booster and ends up on the bottom port of your solenoid, directly to the IWEs (passenger side) and see if that resolves your issue. If it does, then the IWEs might be ok Bare in mind that you won't be able to engage 4wd if you do this bypass so use it only to test).

Good luck.

 

[Bedrck47]

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...the-iwe-system-and-then-some.html#post7322441

 

[Ryan Capson]

I did exactly that! I bought the part (Darmon 600-400) and replaced the completely worn out, and visually broken, vacuum solenoid that is attached to the fan shroud on passenger side.
The solenoid came enclosed with the updated half enclosed hood needed for the protection of this part for the F-150's where it bolts against the fire wall. I removed it.
The part swapped out easily with no tools.
The "let's-hope-it-works-and-it-wasn't-something-else" drive went just as expected with NO MORE GRUMBLE!! Those are good feelings, eh?
Still going strong with 155,000 miles.

 

[David Beaver]

I just changed out the vacuum lines on both sides on my 2010 EL Eddie Bauer. It has around 150K. When you looked in the wheel well on the right side, you could see the lines and could move them more than they are supposed to be moved. They were in very poor condition on a very clean garaged kept vehicle so it is probably just crappy manufacturing. Either way, the grinding has gone away. Like others have said, check the vacuum first before spending a lot of money on other parts.