Front wheel hub replacement and brown boots.

[valenrandy]

Ok, So this morning I actually had time to replace my front wheel hubs. When I first got the truck I had noticed what I called a hum between 5-45mph that I could somewhat ever so slightly feel through the steering wheel.

I purchased through rockauto a pair of Timken hubs and from the dealer some motorcraft gx-11 hub grease.

Considering I am not what you would call mechanically inclined, this was a fairly straight forward job.

The only issue I had was as soon I took the wheel bolts off. The darn tire just would not come off. Believe me I was stumped for a bit. I wondered if there was an additional bolt under the wheels center cap lol!

Well about 10 minutes of head scratching later and a quick search here I saw another person had a similar issue and found my solution.

The wheel and hub face had pretty much rusted together and while I did not loosen the bolts and dropped the truck, I just took a mallet to the tire and they eventully let go.

I cleaned the surfaces and applied anti-sieze to the mating surfaces for future ease.

Anyway it was fairly straight forward and took me about 1 hour each side.

Put everthing back together and took the girl for a spin. She drives smooth but the sound is still there :-(

Do you all have any suggestions as to what other component/part that could cause a hum that increases in frequencey/speed that can sound like a badish wheel bearing??



Second Item:

I see that i have the brown boots under the cops and I want to go ahead and get the all plugs and cops switched out.
Since i have the brown boots that means I have to use the motorcraft sp509 plugs ($7.38)correct?
The site states the sp515 plugs are for black boot so I believe I cannot use those.

Regarding the boots, I was looking at rockauto for the brown boots and I see the DELPHI Part # GN10233 for around 38$ each and the MOTORCRAFT Part # DG508 for 45$ each (but I cant tell if its a brown boot or not).

Anyways, are these the best prices for the plugs/cops and is this a good setup? Looks like this will cost north of 400$ to do myself and I'm just trying to have a reliable truck for a while and I'm willing to put $$ for the right parts. I take this as an investment to help mitigate future problems one peice at a time.



As always, thanks again for your help as it is always appreciated.

 

[metaldrgn]

For the noise issue is your vehicle 4wd? If so have you tried it in 2hi to see if the sound goes away or i is less noticeable?

 

[valenrandy]

I only drive in 2hi and only on occasion have I used 4a/4hi/4low.

From my experience:

On 2hi, the sound is there but when ever I make a sharp left or sharp right, there is no sence of binding as a 4x4 would feel like.

On 4auto, same as above I have yet to be in a situation where it would activate the front wheels.

On 4hi, On loose dirt I can feel the binding in the driveline. Didn't want to try this on pavement.

On 4low, crawling gear makes moving slow but feels correct based on my experience with my old 4x4 4runner. I notice a click/clunk from the underside as I asume that is the transfer case engaging on or off whenever I move the 4x4 selector between 4hi/4low.


IN conclousion, the sound is always there in any mode except for 4low as I do not go fast at all in that mode.

 

[valenrandy]

Ok, I did some reaserch and will try this test to fully check off the 4x4 system as the coulprit.

While in 2Hi, I will raise the front of the expy up and and turn truck on and leave it in park. The vacume should have the front shafts disengaged so I should be able to freely move the front wheels without the shaft spinning correct? I will also check the solenoid by the PCM to see if it has vacume at that spot.

I think im on the right track. 1 step at a time. As with any newbie mechanic, Ive seen it on youtube so I must be an expert now lol!

 

[valenrandy]

Well, I lifted the truck and all worked as it should.

Truck off, 2hi, front wheels locked, engage cv joint.

Truck on, 2hi, front wheels unlocked, cv not engaged.

Truck on, 4hi, front wheels locked, engage cv joint.

While I want to say the 4wd system is ok, it still has a bit of mileage on it so I went ahead and ordered 2 front wheel 4wd actuators.

Suggestions welcomed, thanks!

 

[GaryH2]

Keep us posted on your findings. I had a situation where I thought (swore!) my hubs and bearings were going but it turned out that the ball joints were worn which must have stressed the hub and bearings. From what I understand, they were pretty worn, but the hub and bearings were ok.

I was thinking that some of my vibrations were from the tires. I noticed that it seems to be behaving at the moment.

 

[Live Expy 2008]

Looking at your initial post, I have not had vibration through the steering wheel with either of my Expeditions unless something was out of balance. I have yet to experience a hub failure on my Fords, so I am not sure if different than my GMC. Did you check the rest of the driveline and drive shafts up front?

Since they all rotate, you will have to strap a kid down there and let them tell you where it is.

 

[valenrandy]

Waiting on the actuators to come in.

Its hard for me to explain and I am hesitant to call it a vibration as some might take it or relate it to somthing like a warped rotor feel as this feeling is nothing close to that.

First, I can hear this sound when going from 5-45mph but most prominant at around 25/30mph. Sound increases in frequency the faster I go.

I relate what if feel on the steering wheel with the sound in the same way that I see/feel a pothole if that doesnt sound confusing. It adds to the feeling of the road on the steering wheel?

I have been reading some more and someone mentioned a driveshaft carrier bearing????

IDK.... Still looking