HELP! No Start Issues

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Irwin

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Of course it happens during our polar vortex-

Experiencing all sorts of issues. Most are fixed-

Had to swap battery and alternator the other day. Those are now ok

Having no start issues- only a click on the firewall

I replaced the starter with a new one. Still no start. Only a click on the firewall

Then I replaced the solenoid on the firewall

Still no start. One click on firewall. No start in neutral.

Did get it to start by jumping the points on the starter. Once. But now I can't get it to go again.

Could it be an ignition switch or neutral safety?

Any ideas are appreciated. It's supposed to be warmer tomorrow so it'll be easier to work on it.
 
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bedrck46

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see if you have power at the starter relay if your hearing a click that should indicate that the relay is pulling in but you need 12 in and out to the starter
 
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bedrck46

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have attached starter elect prints hope they help check all connections and ground connections also. check the fuses #20 & #21 shown on the print
 
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stamp11127

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Check for 12v on the large red cable at the starter motor. It is hot at all times regardless of the ignition switch. If you don't have 12v check the battery for 12v. If you have it at the battery perform a voltage drop test on the positive side of the circuit. Maximum drop is .5v - if it checks out do the same on the negative side. If everything is ok then the problem is either the switched side of the circuit or a bad starter. If the switch side checks out, bench test the starter. If you have a remote start switch and battery cables we can guide you through the test if needed.

When possible take readings at the mounting studs and ground and at the wire terminal and ground. If a difference is noted keep track of the value that is lost. Remember that max is .5v loss over the entire circuit. Ideal is 0 loss
 
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proplumb

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Battery Cable to Starter Solenoid

I had the same polar vortex problem all winter, and the same starter problem. Just fixed it yesterday.
I had 12 volts from the battery to the starter solenoid ( larger wire) and 8.5 volts from the starter relay to starter solenoid when the ignition switch was turned on. The started solenoid just clicked. I disconnected the relay wire at the solenoid and when the ignition was turned on I got 12 volts. It turned out to be a badly frayed wire from the battery under the insulation. I took a jumper cable from the positive of the battery to the large ( 4 gauge ) wire on the solenoid, being careful not to touch the lug from the smaller relay wire and voila the it started right up.
To make a long story short I found a 4 gauge red starter wire 42" long from a 1971 Mustang at NAPA that was in stock Part # MPB 781147 with lugs on both ends ( @ $12.00). I put one lug under the bolt to the starter solenoid and the other end to the side of the positive battery post connector.
Hope this helps
 
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