How to get signal for upgraded sub amp?

[Sir William]

I'm about to upgrade the front door speakers and know I'm gonna want a bit more out of the sub to compensate. I already have a better driver back there as I swapped in a JBL GTO804 shortly after we bought the truck. So now I'd like to upgrade the factory amp to one with some more cajones.

I have the plugin pinout, but am finding mixed info as to whether I'll need an active line out converter or if I can get by with a passive. I saw what 10K did, but it looks kinda like he tapped the feed OUT of the sub amp. I want the feed coming IN to that amp, so I'm not sure a regular passive LOC will cut it.

Also, does anybody have the dimensions of the factory amp so I can search for something I can mount in the same place?

Thanks!

 

[GAINMOB]

I don't have any measurements of the amp...I don't think u'll find something with more power with the same measurements...Rockford fosgate makes a powerful small 100 watt amp but that's it...if u go with a 200w amp u can use longer screws to mount to enclosure...are u going to use the factory sub for the amp or do u have another sub that ur gonna use in the back?

output converter like I did worked fine and I used a 1200 rms and 2k rms amp with it

 

[Lostneye]

I had an installer set mine up. I believe it was an active LOC used. There is some room in there. I have a JBL MSA5001 on top of the factory amp still in place. I have seen installs where the amp is mounted on the front part of the sub enclosure as well. One being a Alpine PDX9 I think. I like the JBL except I cannot get the remote base knob to stay linked.

I plan on upgrading from an 8" Polk MM in the factory box to a IDQ12 hopefully this weekend so I can check when I pull the panel.

 

[Sir William]

I already have the JBL GTO804 in there. It's a nice little 91dB 200w/800w driver that works well in that space. It can certainly do the job when there's enough power to push it.

Here's a link to it on the Canadian JBL site (can't find it on US): GTO804 - JBL

I've looked at active LOCs and what I kept finding was one made by SoundGate. But it appears they were bought by Stillwater Designs and no longer make the active LOC that people talk about. There don't appear to be too many options out there less than the AudioControl LC2i. Granted, that's a great unit and can have an optional remote level control, but that's another $100 I didn't really plan on throwing at this thing.

 

[Lostneye]

Those 804s are great for what they are. I have no complaints about my Polk. I just want to move a little more air and got a deal on the IDQ which is a great SQ with decent if not great output.

Looking at this again I am pretty sure my setup is not an active LOC. I can't see the installer using a $100 LOC for what I paid for the install. Again I can check when I have a chance.

 

[Lostneye]

Upgraded to an IDQ12 over the weekend in a 1 cubic foot box. Noticeable improvement however there must be an non linear eq on the volume since the bass definitely does not increase at the same rate as the volume. I'm debating whether to increase the gain to compensate or look into processing or replacing the head unit. I may be working in a different location soon and will most likely be buying a commuter car if that happens and will focus on a real system in that car.

As far as LOC it is passive.

 

[botts]

AudioMobile and Powerbass have good solutions.

 

[GAINMOB]

is the sub in a sealed or vented box? gain control will only make the amp push more power...wont make it louder as the volume increases...continue to turn volume up and see what happens...also...how many watts is the amp ur using? how many channels? turn gain all the way down...volume up to the loudness max u will play ur music...THEN turn the gain up to get the bass to the desired sound...then turn the music down and ur set...

it would be best to get a SMD DD-1 to properly set ur gain or use oscilloscope....u need to find out where the head unit clips at before finding the amp clipping point

 

[Lostneye]

is the sub in a sealed or vented box? gain control will only make the amp push more power...wont make it louder as the volume increases...continue to turn volume up and see what happens...also...how many watts is the amp ur using? how many channels? turn gain all the way down...volume up to the loudness max u will play ur music...THEN turn the gain up to get the bass to the desired sound...then turn the music down and ur set...

it would be best to get a SMD DD-1 to properly set ur gain or use oscilloscope....u need to find out where the head unit clips at before finding the amp clipping point

You make sense. I should clarify, the original amp install I paid to have done. I added the IDQ12 myself and while there I saw the crossovers were not set correctly on the amp. It's a JBL MS-A5001, gain is the normal dial but crossovers are digital, It was set up bandpassing only about 40-60Hz. Obviously a problem. So I didn't mean to just up the gains but to verify they are set correctly on the LOC and the amp.

Have you used the SMD DD-1? Oscilloscopes seem a little pricy and bulky for how often I would use it. I was looking at the DD-1 though.

 

[GAINMOB]

I own the SMD DD-1...very easy to use...$150 and I get my moneys worth out of it as I am installing a new setup and have my wife's car and soon my soon will have a car and wants a system in it as well...I love it...best to do with someone on the head unit cuz u have to know where the hu clips at 1st...then go to amp or amps...i'm going to buy the CC-1 next for the crossover...there are about 4 I will have...the others will allow me to set gains/x-overs for multiple amps at the same level once the 1st is set...and one will give me accurate reading of RMS power the amp is putting out...and it does a couple more things