G
Guest
Guest
All,
Just last night I installed a new Hidden Hitch front hitch to my rig and I provide the following notes for anyone looking to do the same:
I have a 2001 EB/5.4L/4R100. I wanted to make sure that the hitch install would not require cutting any parts. Hidden Hitch (Model 5012) fit the bill. From my research the other hitches required removal and or modification of the bumber, air dam, or trim, or a combination of that....Valley and Reese are the same hitch...they require cutting, draw-tite also required cutting
I had a local 4WD store order the hitch for $114...cheaper than getting it online and delivered...listed at 25 pounds...came in a box witht the receiver wrapped in plastic for protection, with the carriage bolts, nuts, and fish wire and instructions...
The install is pretty straight forward with the follwoing notes:
- I had to remove my front skid plate as the hitch uses the front two holes for mounting...I will have to modify the skid plate to return to the truck, but that is a minor cut and fold, and should get replaced with weekend or sometime soon....
- you need to remove the tow hooks, and keep the bolts for use in installing the hitch...if you do not have tow hooks you can get a kit with the pars you need from HH...or you could go to ford and order the tow hook package...hitch and tow hooks and you are ready for anything
- Once the HW is off you are ready to fish the carriage bolt and carriage bolt lock plate into the frame, with the supplied fish wire...this was a lot easier than i first thought it would be, just take your time and don't force anything or you may end up with a carriage bolt rattling around your frame...use a small screwdriver to get the bolt to stand up while you pull it through the mounting hole
- When using the fishing wire make sure it is securely wrapped around the bolt you are fishing and that you remember the direction that ended the wrap with....makes it easier when you have to untwist and unwrap the wire
- on the hitch you will use the hitches' two rear bolts (supplied and intalled above) to first attach the hitch to the frame...this is to hold the frame in position while you replace the tow hooks...i would suspect that these bolts really don't do much in the way of supporting the load...it is possible that you could reuse these bolts for reinstalling the skid plate...
- I did this on my own with the help of a 3 ton jack to hold up one end while i worked on the other...also the hitch will rest on the bumper trim, so i was able to hold it up with one hand, while i set up the jack stand...i was worried abouthaving to hold the hitch in position but is was really no problem at all
- once you carefully put the nut on the carriage bolts (after lifting the hitch into position), you are home free....tighten those up with 1/2" play and now you can go to reinstalling the tow hooks and bolts
- on the tow hooks you have two bolts...the rear tow hook bolt is keyed, so w/o the hook in place you can start the bolt into the frame hole and floating frame nut....leave about 3/4" of the shaft exposed so that you can key the tow hook onto the bolt...now with a screw driver or finger line up the front tow hook bolt nut plate (inside the frame (both nuts are part of the same steel bar in the frame; don't fully tighten the rear tow hook bolt until you have aligned and started the front tow hook bolt)) and carefully start the nut....repeat for the other side
- now you can start tightening the bolts up while making sure the hitch is centered and even...torque to the recommended level (I believe it was 70 lb/ft for the large nuts and 35 lbs/foot for the supplied bolts)
took me about 30-45 minutes taking my time and inspecting the hoses behind the skid plate...the PS unit was a little damp so i degreesed it so i can check on it in a couple weeks....very happy with it and it looks great....no i can handle the trailer from the front if needed, add a winch if i win the lottery, or add a bike rack if needed...the mount is rated for 9k# line pull, and 500 pounds for tongue weight.
Hope this helps....
Just last night I installed a new Hidden Hitch front hitch to my rig and I provide the following notes for anyone looking to do the same:
I have a 2001 EB/5.4L/4R100. I wanted to make sure that the hitch install would not require cutting any parts. Hidden Hitch (Model 5012) fit the bill. From my research the other hitches required removal and or modification of the bumber, air dam, or trim, or a combination of that....Valley and Reese are the same hitch...they require cutting, draw-tite also required cutting
I had a local 4WD store order the hitch for $114...cheaper than getting it online and delivered...listed at 25 pounds...came in a box witht the receiver wrapped in plastic for protection, with the carriage bolts, nuts, and fish wire and instructions...
The install is pretty straight forward with the follwoing notes:
- I had to remove my front skid plate as the hitch uses the front two holes for mounting...I will have to modify the skid plate to return to the truck, but that is a minor cut and fold, and should get replaced with weekend or sometime soon....
- you need to remove the tow hooks, and keep the bolts for use in installing the hitch...if you do not have tow hooks you can get a kit with the pars you need from HH...or you could go to ford and order the tow hook package...hitch and tow hooks and you are ready for anything
- Once the HW is off you are ready to fish the carriage bolt and carriage bolt lock plate into the frame, with the supplied fish wire...this was a lot easier than i first thought it would be, just take your time and don't force anything or you may end up with a carriage bolt rattling around your frame...use a small screwdriver to get the bolt to stand up while you pull it through the mounting hole
- When using the fishing wire make sure it is securely wrapped around the bolt you are fishing and that you remember the direction that ended the wrap with....makes it easier when you have to untwist and unwrap the wire
- on the hitch you will use the hitches' two rear bolts (supplied and intalled above) to first attach the hitch to the frame...this is to hold the frame in position while you replace the tow hooks...i would suspect that these bolts really don't do much in the way of supporting the load...it is possible that you could reuse these bolts for reinstalling the skid plate...
- I did this on my own with the help of a 3 ton jack to hold up one end while i worked on the other...also the hitch will rest on the bumper trim, so i was able to hold it up with one hand, while i set up the jack stand...i was worried abouthaving to hold the hitch in position but is was really no problem at all
- once you carefully put the nut on the carriage bolts (after lifting the hitch into position), you are home free....tighten those up with 1/2" play and now you can go to reinstalling the tow hooks and bolts
- on the tow hooks you have two bolts...the rear tow hook bolt is keyed, so w/o the hook in place you can start the bolt into the frame hole and floating frame nut....leave about 3/4" of the shaft exposed so that you can key the tow hook onto the bolt...now with a screw driver or finger line up the front tow hook bolt nut plate (inside the frame (both nuts are part of the same steel bar in the frame; don't fully tighten the rear tow hook bolt until you have aligned and started the front tow hook bolt)) and carefully start the nut....repeat for the other side
- now you can start tightening the bolts up while making sure the hitch is centered and even...torque to the recommended level (I believe it was 70 lb/ft for the large nuts and 35 lbs/foot for the supplied bolts)
took me about 30-45 minutes taking my time and inspecting the hoses behind the skid plate...the PS unit was a little damp so i degreesed it so i can check on it in a couple weeks....very happy with it and it looks great....no i can handle the trailer from the front if needed, add a winch if i win the lottery, or add a bike rack if needed...the mount is rated for 9k# line pull, and 500 pounds for tongue weight.
Hope this helps....
