More in depth high mileage maintenance

[eddytheexpy]

Hi all,

I’ve searched around to find more thorough information on high mileage maintenance beyond switching to 5w-30 and increased oil change frequency but I can’t seem to find much in one place so maybe this thread will help others out in the future as well.

I’m currently rolling with ~160k miles on my 2011 limited EL 4x4 and I want to get ahead of any problems that may be coming down the road.

Specifically I’m looking for:
1) spots that could use a little love in the grease department that may or may not have zerk fittings and what grease to use
2) what components to inspect for wear (I’m thinking things like U-joints, tie rods, etc…)
3) subtle symptoms I may be overlooking that could be indicative of a real problem
4) 4x4 specific maintenance as this is my first vehicle with 4x4
5) things the desert will eat up as this vehicle has only lived in the southwest. It’s great that rust isn’t an issue but it’s always a trade off for something else

Maintenance things I’ve done in the past 6k miles (which means since I’ve bought it):
4 new coil-overs, outer tie ends, sway bar links, upper/lower control arms which included bushings and ball joints, both IWEs, serpentine belt, both differential oil changes, engine oil changes, coolant flush (with new radiator), inspected: radiator hoses, transmission fluid (changed before I bought it and based off its color I 100% believe it)

I also plan on doing a timing job in the not too distant future when I move somewhere that has a garage. This is when I plan to do spark plugs and coil packs since I’ll already be signing up for a big job and want to be poised to handle broken plugs and god forbid ceramic crumbling into the cylinder.

Don’t be shy to recommend high effort jobs since I’m already planning on doing the timing job haha

Thanks in advance! I appreciate the help keeping this beast running!

 

[Snuffy]

I think you’ve about covered it. Only other corrective things I’ve done on mine (170K 2013 King Ranch 4x4) are the positive battery clamp, rear HVAC blend door controller, drivers door switch, seeping rear pumpkin seal, changed to 1 piece lug nuts from OEM 2 piece, and replaced the A/B switch for the brake pedal-shift lever but wait until those go to replace them. Also lubricate the motors on your power running boards if applicable w/ WD40 (no grease fittings). Everything else I’ve done has been preventive, and it runs great. Even the parts I’ve replaced could be considered wear items (except for the pumpkin seal which started leaking around 100K, and the battery cable and lug nuts, which are Ford stupidity.) No timing chain guide issues or noises yet.

I’m also in the SW and I pull a 5K lb trailer sometimes. The truck is great!

 

[twodollars]

I usually change out brake fluid at the 100k point, during whatever brake service occurs near that point. Replacing the rubber lines is good preventative as well.

 

[Logan97]

When you do your spark plugs warm up your engine and use some pb blaster in the spark plug holes, give it about 15 to 20 minutes and they should come out no problem, I've replaced a lot of spark plugs from 07 expeditions up to a 13 and that has worked for me every time without fail. Make sure you use ford parts though. I've had customers give me everything but ford oem parts to use and they never last as long and sometimes can cause other small problems you don't want. I know everyone here has varying degrees of success with non ford parts but that's just my opinion. Other than that you seem to be on top of everything else and that expedition should last you a long time.

 

[purevw]

On my 2011, replacing the wheel bearing hubs is listed as scheduled maintenance at 160,000 miles.

 

[TORNIT07]

With 216,000 miles on my '07 I've done a lot, some preventative & some just worn out. I did my timing components/oil pump/roller rockers around 192,000. When you do that be sure to use FORD OEM parts, except the oil pump. Use the MELLING HIGH VOLUME pump.

Some folks use the Melling High PRESSURE pump. That didn't sit well with me & I called a rep at Melling. He said the High Pressure pump is really for engines that will/may be red lining. He said the High Volume pump is what I should use, which I did.

My fuel pump quit with no warning at 160,000 If I were you, I'd replace it with a FORD/MOTORCRAFT OEM assembly, along with the filter.

I replaced both VCT solenoids at 179,000.

 

[max78]

226K miles now,

from 180K till now these are the things that I replaced preventatively.

Fuel pump (it was loud once but still running)
ALL rubber brake lines (had some burst on older vehicles)
Brake master cylinder (It worked, but it stops a lot better)
Water Pump (when doing the timing stuff)
Thermostat (when doing the timing stuff)
All rubber coolant lines (also when doing the timing stuff, had too many pop from age on older vehicles)

I replaced 1 lower ball joint thinking it was bad but it was perfectly tight and there was no need to replace it. . .

Installed a high volume Melling when I did the chain and guides

 

[rslynes]

Front and rear differential oil change.