New battery, but still won't start on 2000 EB 5.4

[Steve McGarrett]

Greetings from Omaha,

I have a 2000 5.4 EB that was recently struggling to start over the course of the last month as the colder weather has started settling in.

The first couple of times I didn't think much of it as I drive it maybe once a week and the rest of the time it sits in the driveway ready for the next run to Lowes, etc. It would crank and start, but sounded weak.

The third time it started to crank but then acted like the battery just didn't have enough juice. I used a jump pack and it fired up so I was thinking that the battery was the culprit.

Fast forward to this week. I went to start it and move it off the street and back into the driveway. It wouldn't even crank, but had enough in the battery for all the lights to work, radio to run, etc.

Bit the bullet and pulled the battery and ran to Walmart to pick up a new one. Came home, put it back in and.....the same exact result.

A bit perplexed as the cables are like new and it's never had any issues until recently. Tried both keys in case it was security system/key transmitter related and it didn't make a difference. It won't even crank. When I turn the key everything lights up, but nothing else happens. Bad ignition switch? Neutral safety switch? Alien takeover?

Would appreciate any help you can offer before I start throwing parts at it.

 

[Motorcity muscle]

Could be the starter but try moving shifter, try starting it in neutral. Would also check the grounds, cables do corrode internally and can still look good on the outside.

 

[Steve McGarrett]

Thanks for the reply! Tried starting it in neutral this morning before heading to work and got the same result.

I'll give the cables a good look this weekend as I'll have actual light to see them for a change. Thanks again!

 

[Trainmaster]

Look at the starting solenoid. You can check that by shorting its terminals and seeing if it cranks. Then tap the starter with a hammer and check its terminals. If it's not the cable connections, it's possibly the starter. You'll need about 20" of socket wrench extensions to get the starter out. If I remember correctly, you reach the middle bolt through the suspension A frames.

 

[Steve McGarrett]

I'll add it to the list. Low 20's and rain tomorrow here in Omaha so perfect monkey wrenching weather! Appreciate the reply!

 

[Clemson82]

Just thinking; if it's the starter, why would it start with the jump pack? Did you check the voltage of the battery you purchased at Wal-Mart?

 

[1955moose]

A failing starter will sometimes start due to the added current of the jumper battery. My bad starter sounded like a failing battery, I had O'Reilly's swap it out then within 2 days wouldn't start without the whack on starter from hammer. Luckily I went to Serramonte Ford and grabbed a reman starter the day before it took it's final goodbye. You might try swapping the starter relay in the fuse box, with one next to it. It's possible it's failing, or you have corrosion on terminals. You guys get nasty weather that could be affecting connections. Also the simplest thing, check your motor oil level. Also try a breaker bar or ratchet and socket on harmonic balancer up front. Need to be sure motor is sound, and not freezing up. If you have to pull starter, the front bolt comes off by removing r/f tire, long extension with a swivel and I believe 14 mm 6 point socket. The rear 2 are super easy.

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[highlandre]

I had to replace my starter cable from the battery. There was too much oxidation in the wire that it wasn’t passing enough current.

 

[Steve McGarrett]

Thanks all for the help! I've been in training all week so haven't had a chance to track down all the suggestions, not to mention the truck is parked on a sheet of ice thanks to our latest storm. My son did replace the starter solenoid on the firewall, but still have the same result. I took a wire brush to the negative cable as it did have a bit of crud on it, but same result.

My next area to check is the starter cable connection on the starter itself as mentioned by highlandre. Thanks again and I'll update the thread once it's solved!

 

[1955moose]

A simple way to see if your positive cable is part or all your problem, is to very carefully hook up the red lead of a thick pair of jumper cables. Hook one end to positive lead over your battery cable, leave original cable connected. Place the other end of cable on positive post of firewall starter solenoid where battery cable attached. Use an assistant if necessary. Use just the battery that's in SUV, dont run jumper battery. if it cranks easier, then the positive cables part or all your problem.

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