Ordering Bilstein HD shocks and MOOG parts for a 2001 4x4 - will report results

[71Rcode]

About to order a set of Bilstein HD shocks (nonleveling) from eShocks.com - the best price I've found out there ($251 shipped).

Front: #24-185219
Rear: # 24-185226

Have Moog tierod ends (all four), tie rod adjustment sleeves, and swaybar end links (front) on the way. Best price on these was on eBay.

These will be going on my 2001 4x4 (108k) that has broken swaybar links, worn OEM shocks and worn boots on the tierod ends. While she provides a soft ride, going around corners at highway and neighborhood speeds is a little pitchy. And taking any dips in pavement (pretty nice roads in north Dallas) makes passengers in the back of the truck feel like they are on a jonboat in the ocean.

I've been reading dozens of boards and posts using multiple google searches, considering several Monroe shock models, Gabriel, and KYBs. Ranchos and Edlebrocks were discussed as well, but I was not interested in these. 90% of the Bilstein comments were positive, which made me decide they were worth the extra cost. I figured I'd pay more, do the job once, and forget about it.

I'll report back my findings and try to take some pix in hopes of helping you guys make an informed decision about this for yourselves.

 

[Jay87LX]

Link for the front end MOOG parts?

 

[71Rcode]

eBay My World - pautoparts

PA Autoparts. I'd recommend you go to the MOOG website, get your part numbers, and then search for them on ebay. This seller had all my parts with free shipping and at a low price. Outer tie rod ends were $32 and innners $36.

 

[BakerEdition]

YES PLEASE share your comments on the ride and handling....i have to use both hands on the freeway and mine nose dives pretty good...I got 101k on factory originals...

 

[71Rcode]

OK guys, the project is all finished. HUGE difference in handling/steering and ride comfort. I cannot begin to explain the difference these small changes made. Got it back from Firestone (alignment) on Friday and installed the front shocks yesterday in the rain.

The truck had OEM motocraft shocks in all four corners... and they were SHOT. The previous owner was way overdue replacing them. And let me just advise anyone thinking about replacing the shocks to not go cheap because these bad boys are not the easiest things to switch out. Go with Bilstein (lifetime warranty / lifetime qualty valving) and do it ONCE.

Rear: the RH side is easy. The LH side upper bolt is difficult to get to. I recommend using a long extension or two mated up and reaching the bolt from behind the spare tire. And you don't need a wrench on the nut on the other side of the shock. It's mounted to a HD clip that will fall off as soon as your shock comes loose. It's a PITA to hold that clip up in the top shock mounting bracket and shove the new shock up there at the same time...so beware. I used a little grease on the shock rubber so all of that would slide in a bit easier. Oh yeah, do the RH side FIRST - it's much easier. You'll see how it goes down, which will save you a ton of time on the LH side. I did the opposite and spent way too much time playing with tool combinations until I figured out (a) I didn't need to hold the nut on the top shock (b) to use the long extensions and climb under the truck - way under.
Front: These are much easier in a ways... much more difficult in others. You will need to place a floor jack on the side of the front crossmember where you're removing the shock and a HD jack stand to put under the lower A arm, which you'll need to lower the truck's weight on the A-arm to get the shock to push up far enough through the mounting hole to thread the top nut. I read about this on multiple forums that top threaded shaft on the top of the shock is not long enough.. and it's true. Also, you will want to use a prybar to pry under the top shock mounting bracket on the truck frame and push DOWN on top of the top of the new shock bushing to get the shock to feed under the top shock mounting bracket on the truck frame. It's just too difficult to try to "man it" (compress the shock by hand) into place. I tried...

Huge difference, guys. Do it.

I probably have $450-500 in this. And I'll say that while replacing the original tie rod ends may have been unnecessary at 108k (cost $120? +$75 for the alignment), I'm glad I did it. If you are going to do anything, replace the $10 per side front swaybar end links and do the $250 shocks all around. WOW is all I'll say!

 

[BakerEdition]

Glad to hear those shocks made you happy...one question...when your going down the road and take a turn does the front end nose dive or feel the truck is leaning hard?

 

[71Rcode]

Not at all. Before when going around curves/cornering she felt like the USS Minnow. Now, she feels firmly planted and no nose diving. It's weird... the ride is firm and controlled yet very comfortable.

 

[BakerEdition]

thanks for the reply...I just found a complete set on of 4 on ebay for 278.00 guess thats the way I will go...

 

[ZombieSoldier]

i had the bilstein 5100's on my F250 with a diesel and to me Bilsteins are worth every single penny you pay for them!

 

[TheGuyWho]

Bilsteins are absolutely worth every penny!! After making the mistake of going with Rancho's first. I'll never go back! I shoulda gone with my gut the first time and gone Bilsteins to begin with. The other suspension parts Im still figuring out. When I have money again, ill probably go MOOG myself.