Removal of oil pan 4.6 2wd

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

BrandonB

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Posts
116
Reaction score
5
Location
Kansas
Any advice for removing the oil pan on a 1999 4.6 2wd? I can get to all bolts but one on the passenger side above the frame. I tried a 10" extension and a joint adapter this morning before I froze and gave up for the day. Couldn't quite get the right angle.....




Thanks!
 
OP
OP
B

BrandonB

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Posts
116
Reaction score
5
Location
Kansas
I was hoping I could do it without lifting the engine as I don't have immediate access to a lift. I'd have to take the vehicle to my dads shop to do that. If the pan has to be removed i'll likely just put the new filter on and put oil back in it and do that at a later time.

I flushed it, that's why I wanted to take the pan off and clean it and the screen. But when I changed the oil the oil didn't look bad at all. No sludge, chunks, metal etc came out of the drain plug. Filter didn't look bad either. There is a slight leak on the pan, so i'd end up changing the gasket eventually. I might just wait until I get everything else fixed.

It'd be nice if I could flush the screen/pan from the drain plug - maybe pressurized solvent or something. But that'd probably be worse then leaving it as is!
 
Last edited:

toms89

technical advisor
Joined
Mar 13, 2011
Posts
5,177
Reaction score
440
Location
MD
Even if you remove all the bolts you need significant clearance to remove pan due to the crankshaft counter weights and oil pickup tube. Oil pickup sits approximately 1/2" off the pan.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
B

BrandonB

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Posts
116
Reaction score
5
Location
Kansas
That settles it then. I'll just leave the pan on for now. I think I narrowed my knock/tick problem down to a timing chain adjuster or guide anyways. Which I'm sure will be a blast to change! At least I won't have to roll around on gravel much for that!


Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
B

BrandonB

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Posts
116
Reaction score
5
Location
Kansas
Update -- probed around a bit more with the stethoscope today trying to locate the tick. It's not coming from either timing chain cover, or around the water pump. The loudest ticking sound I got was when I stuck the probe to the bottom valve cover bolt on the drivers side near the back of the head. So I guess the next time I get a few hours to play i'l rip that cover off and see what I can see. Towards the front of the engine on that head the sound is minimal, so that leads me to believe its not the timing chain like I suspected previous.
 
OP
OP
B

BrandonB

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Posts
116
Reaction score
5
Location
Kansas
Oil pressure sensor change didn't help anything. Drove it a bit, ran up to highway speed. Shortly after the oil pressure and gauge light came on - the dummy light/gauge. Now I shut the engine off and then immediately started it back up and the pressure went back to normal and the light went off. So not sure on that...
 
OP
OP
B

BrandonB

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Posts
116
Reaction score
5
Location
Kansas
Has anyone ever jacked the engine up and put blocks under the motor mounts to get enough clearance to remove the pan? Don't have access to a lift -- if I could do it with a floor jack and some wood blocks that would be ideal.
 
Top