Speed Bleeders?

[1955moose]

Up down, up down, amazing you didn't have vice cops knocking on the door! Or installing an old V8 camshaft, you'd say are you in? Your reply, I'm through!

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[Frank R]

Oh, I'm well versed in the 2-person method. My wife has become quite skilled in pedal-pushing over the years

 

[theoldwizard1]

In my experience, dragging calipers, are usually caused by less than prefect slide pins and/or less than perfect slide pin bores.

If you want to reuse the slide pins, they really need to be "polished" back to their original finished. This usually means cleaning them on a bench grinder with a wire wheel. Cleaning the pin bores on the caliper is more difficult. After cleaning out the old grease you need to "ream" the bores. The simplest way is to chuck a drill bit one size smaller than the bore into your drill, insert it into the bore and wiggle it around. You DO want to expose a small amount of fresh metal, but don't go crazy.

Last, when installing the pads, thoroughly clean the areas on the caliper behind where the stainless steel clips are installed. Sand blast or powered wheel is required. If, after installing the clips the pads do not easily fit, you need more cleaning.

Obviously use proper grease on the pins, behind the clips and the back side of the pads themselves.


On vehicles that repeatedly had this problem, I replace the caliper, the slide pins and the caliper bracket. Online (Rock Auto), you can buy this combination for just a few dollars more than just a rebuilt caliper.

 

[bobmbx]

In my experience, dragging calipers, are usually caused by less than prefect slide pins and/or less than perfect slide pin bores.

If you want to reuse the slide pins, they really need to be "polished" back to their original finished. This usually means cleaning them on a bench grinder with a wire wheel. Cleaning the pin bores on the caliper is more difficult. After cleaning out the old grease you need to "ream" the bores. The simplest way is to chuck a drill bit one size smaller than the bore into your drill, insert it into the bore and wiggle it around. You DO want to expose a small amount of fresh metal, but don't go crazy.

Last, when installing the pads, thoroughly clean the areas on the caliper behind where the stainless steel clips are installed. Sand blast or powered wheel is required. If, after installing the clips the pads do not easily fit, you need more cleaning.

Obviously use proper grease on the pins, behind the clips and the back side of the pads themselves.


On vehicles that repeatedly had this problem, I replace the caliper, the slide pins and the caliper bracket. Online (Rock Auto), you can buy this combination for just a few dollars more than just a rebuilt caliper.

Use a gun cleaning kit for the bores. Put the wire brush on a drill and have at it......

 

[TobyU]

A lot of the parts stores are only carrying the caliper with the bracket now especially on the ones that are 10 plus years old and commonly stick on the sliders. I guess that makes it more convenient for people but it does cost you between 8 and $14 more.

 

[1955moose]

See it might be a west coast thing, but I've never experienced a stuck slider. I only wire brush or Emery cloth the pins, and coat a little grease, usually the red Harley good stuff on the slide. SUVs that are parked indoors have literally 0 problem sticking. I've found it's mostly a piston that gets stuck. Motorcycles are famous for it. On bikes you rebuild calipers at all costs. They start at over $200.00 on up, and when over 10 years old, when you need them, their discontinued. I'd usually just pop calipers apart, lightly sand bores, clean rust off pistons and reuse. You can do the same with the Ford ones, especially if single piston, real easy to blow apart, and reasemble. Just takes a new oring, and possibly a boot.

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[JohnA]

just did '10 fronts. replaced caliper, disc and hose for same prob. Caliper boots were torn and pistons retracted very stiffly. Could only get stiff wire 6-7 inches down rubber hose. Typical Ford prob at 130K. Have '03 Sport trac w 130 K I did same for last fall. good luck. always lots of good info from these folks on forum. They seem to know what's what.

 

[rjdelp7]

Everyone covered the 'stuck' pistons and bad hardware. I have experienced poor fitting pads. One set fit so tight, I couldn't put them on. Another set my mechanic put on, had to be put on a grinder. He ground the metal that rides on the sliders. The pads should fit loose, with some slop. If they are tight, will not release 100% and drag. Many people swear by OEM, only brake pads, for this reason. Bendix and other 'name brand' are usually good. I had issues with Autozone pads and one I bought from PrimeChoiceAuto(online). I have been told many mechanics, will grind the metal, before installing.

 

[TobyU]

Often pads will be a little tight going into the calipers oh, this can be because of the paint build up on the pad metal backing or it can be from rust build-up on the caliper mating surfaces or caliper bracket mating surfaces. I always just have a file there and give them a little bit if necessary to make them fit and slide properly. I have not used any set of pads other than AutoZone advance O'Reilly for over 20 years now. I have never had an issue with any of them.

 

[tack87]

If it were me I would just rebuild the calipers. I had a bad pull, so when I changed pads I rebuilt all four calipers, was plenty easy enough.