2012 - Safe to change plugs myself without breaking any plugs

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MtnBiker

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My truck is almost due for new plugs, but I have heard/read about the plugs breaking. Is this only with the older 5.4's. My truck was manufactured in Sept 2011 and I am hesitant as I don't want to break one taking them out. I also don't like the fact of paying the stealership so much money just to change out eight plugs.

Just wanted to hear from anyone else that has a newer 3rd gen that has done the work.

Thanks!

Rob
 

docraymund

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You can safely remove them yourself without breaking. Just take your time and use proper tools and clean the area first with compressed air. Good luck!
 

rwmorrisonjr

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You can safely remove them yourself without breaking. Just take your time and use proper tools and clean the area first with compressed air. Good luck!

What he said. I just did mine last Friday at 97,500 and they were a breeze. Just go slowly and be patient, especially with initially loosening them and then re-torquing the new plugs. I went 10 ft/lbs (120 in/lbs) and they're in perfectly. No anti-seize either as I used OEM plugs. Make sure they're gapped properly (0.056-0.056").
 
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MtnBiker

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Great! Thanks for the replies. I will look at doing this next week. Should I go with the OEM plugs only. I don't think I will let them go as long without changing them the next time.
 

FisherPete

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As suggested above, removing isn't the real issue. It's replacing the plugs and properly torquing them. If you get the torque wrong, the sound of a canon firing under the hood will alert you to the problem.
 

ColoExpdn

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I used Champion 9406 Iridium on the last two times I have done plugs on a 3v. Most will suggest using the OEM Ford SP509's but they are twice the price. The NGK 372 Iridium is also a compatible plug, NGK makes good plugs. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2010,expedition,5.4l+v8,3015229,ignition,spark+plug,7212
I had my local independent shop do mine as I didn't want to risk breaking one off. They installed the NGK 372 plugs that Cellman recommended. They are working great so far (only replaced them a few weeks ago). This is a good shop that I have used for many years and they only use very good parts. A little more expensive than other shops, but it is always done right. ~$530 to get the plugs replaced (including new plug boots).
 

tennford

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My truck is almost due for new plugs, but I have heard/read about the plugs breaking. Is this only with the older 5.4's. My truck was manufactured in Sept 2011 and I am hesitant as I don't want to break one taking them out. I also don't like the fact of paying the stealership so much money just to change out eight plugs.

Just wanted to hear from anyone else that has a newer 3rd gen that has done the work.

Thanks!

Rob
 

tennford

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I'm a retired Ford tech and my suggestion is get it as hot as you can then take them out. I've had the best luck that way. Don't try to take them out of a cold engine as that is an almost sure problem. Also make sure you use a 6pt socket. Also best to put the new ines in before it cools off. They usually seem pretty tight but just have patience it's really easy to do if you do it hot.
 

inmanlanier

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How are the coils? My last 2 cars I had coil issues near the 100K mark, so I have relegated myself to doing
 

inmanlanier

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Sorry - damn android! I was saying for cars where the intake comes off, I was planning on doing coils at same time. For the expo, are coils holding up? Does the intake have to come off for plug R&R?
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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I'm a retired Ford tech and my suggestion is get it as hot as you can then take them out. I've had the best luck that way. Don't try to take them out of a cold engine as that is an almost sure problem. Also make sure you use a 6pt socket. Also best to put the new ines in before it cools off. They usually seem pretty tight but just have patience it's really easy to do if you do it hot.

You're a retired Ford tech and that's your advice?

From the service manual:

NOTICE: Do not remove the spark plugs when the engine is hot or cold soaked. Spark plug thread or cylinder head damage can occur. Make sure the engine is warm (hand touch after cooling down) prior to spark plug removal.
 

inmanlanier

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Manuporshutup - you may or may not know that manuals are NOT written at a time where there is alot of field experirience to the recommendations. The techs (after ALOT of practice) are usually the folks that tell the best means to an end. I'm sure the retired tech is not analy extracting as you infer. Please try and give positive feedback or experienced based input rather than trying tontake potshots. BTW - this request comes from 35 years of field honed engineering experience.
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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Manuporshutup - you may or may not know that manuals are NOT written at a time where there is alot of field experirience to the recommendations. The techs (after ALOT of practice) are usually the folks that tell the best means to an end. I'm sure the retired tech is not analy extracting as you infer. Please try and give positive feedback or experienced based input rather than trying tontake potshots. BTW - this request comes from 35 years of field honed engineering experience.

This particular manual was written more than a decade after this engine was introduced and the same recommendation remains in this manual and all service manuals for vehicles with aluminum heads. In any case, I only referenced the Ford manual because he made it a point to state that he was a Ford tech. The bottom line is that it is extremely ill-advised to remove spark plugs from an aluminum head when blistering hot and virtually any mechanic worth his salt will tell you the same. As for my feedback, I will give whatever feedback I deem appropriate. Considering that his advice could cause significant damage to someone's engine, I felt obligated to speak up and would do so again.
 

inmanlanier

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And the simple engineering involved is that cylindrical clearances increase with temperature, thereby reducing the opportunity for binding (being galling or whatever). Furthermore, the yield temperature (i.e. the point at which the material plastically deforms) of the aluminum alloys in the heads is far greater than the 'blistering' 250 F that may be there by the time you work the head. The reduction in material strength from 100 degrees to 250 degrees in said alloys will not be of concern. In other words, there are good technical reasons to support his experience based feedback which I will likely utilize when it is my turn to change plugs. My experience is that manuals, although good, are not perfect. This is clearly a design flaw in Ford's engine, likely the sme members of the team that designed this head evolutuion were involved in the manual text. If so, they would not be fully cognizant of the issue or we would not be having this dialogue. I always sought reviews of savvy field techs, mechanics, etc. in my designs before issue since they have a better field (i.e. experience based) perspective than I. In several instances, I received feedback for things I had not considered which improved the output.
 

tennford

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Maybe you should look at your name and manuporshutup and do the latter. I've never broken a plug by doing it hot. I've probably done 2-300 of them and we always did them hot. You must be reading the Haynes manual manup. There was no need to be a smart ass. Just giving my 35 years of experience advice. I'm sure I've done more of them than you've seen so if you can't say something nice just shut up as your name implies.
 

terrym21

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On my 2002 Expedition, 4.6L, I had NTB just do the plugs and a few months later, the engine was misfiring just slightly enough that it would not trigger a check engine code. So I found a good deal on a full set of coils and decided I would replace them myself, one coil at a time, trying to figure out which cylinder was the culprit. By the time I got to the back two coils, the engine was still misfiring. Those two coils were too difficult to access, so I had my mechanic finish the job. He asked my if I'd had Motorcraft plugs installed, and I said I did not know what the other shop installed. He told me that Ford engines are very particular and that having the OEM plugs installed often fixed misfiring issues. He convinced me to replace the plugs with Motorcraft, he finished the job and it's been running smooth ever since. Bottom line, use OEM plugs and have a mechanic that knows what they are doing.
 

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