Removing brake rotors

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olcoacher

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I own a 1998 4wd Expedition. I am trying to replace the brake rotors. I am under the impression (Haynes Manual) that the 4wd's just pull off. However, my first rotor (right rear) is not coming off. Can anyone help me? I don't want to ruin something. Thanks, Doug
 
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walnuts4x4

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my 99 I had the same problem with the rear rotors.... I first used a big hammer then when that didn't work we used a slide hammer... I think they are the same and if you have calipiers off just hit the rotor with a hammer and be careful of studs... probably just seized on
 

tonydiv

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You can also spray some PB Blaster around the studs to help loosen it up, but in the end it's still going to be hammer time. Putting the lug nuts back on (loosely) will keep you from damaging the studs.

Also, be sure to clean the hub flange once it's off so that nothing gets trapped there when you put the new rotor on. Some anti-seize on the hub will keep this from happening again.
 

nvycrmn

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agreed. i had the same problem on my 98. some pb blaster and a few whacks with a rubber mallet got her loose.
 

ELVATO

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Bring out the biggest BFH you have and go to town. PB Blaster helps. Put antiseize on the hub (not the studs) to help in the future.

I've also heard of using a torch to expand the metal, as wheel as using an angle grinder to cut the rotor in half.
 

KWT2000

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i agree get the BFH and beat into submission. since you are replacing them damage to the rotor is not an issue... the anti seize is a good idea also... while your in there spray the ebrake moving parts with brake kleen to help.keep.it working freely
 

mikegigabyte

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so there is no puller tool available, ive ran into this in the past and the hammer ruins the rotors if your planning on reusing them
some drum brakes ive tried wouldnt even budge
 

ELVATO

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Use a mallet or deadblow instead of a hammer if you wanna keep the rotors. Seems it would be "gentler" on the rotor. Put the antiseize so it doesn't happen next time.
 

Remo

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Both times I replaced front rotors on my 2000, they had to be cut off.
Sawzall gets the job done, but an anglegrinder or cutoff wheel works much better.
I heard some dealerships even use plasma torches.

It doesn't hurt to try the easier things first, though, like PB Blaster or WD40 and a big, heavy hammer. This hasn't been enough for my truck either time, though.

We've tried using a torch to heat them up, too, but it never seemed to help much.

It seems impossible to remove the rotors w/o damaging them. Good news is that new rotors are pretty cheap--not much more than getting old rotors turned.

Good luck!
 

ELVATO

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A yep, I'd rather get a new rotor than getting one turned. Turned rotors are more prone to warping, which would mean you having to get new rotors anyways...
 

walnuts4x4

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if you have access use a big "slide-hammer" like a lot of body shops have... after 10 min with a BFH friend came over and used it and came right off...lol
 

hardrock

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It took me 1 1/2 hours to remove 2 rotors with a 10lb sledge! I broke countless wood blocks laying the against the rotors. Yhe hub had just enough rust to seize them in place.
 

ELVATO

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Interesting, seems I'll have to try that if it ever happens to me.
 

KWT2000

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i also just replace the rotors to prevent warping plus i run ceramic pads soo after that many miles i dont think they are worth turning
 

dgray69

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had to put alot of heat to mine, then pounded them witb sledge hammer thill they shattered, allllll 4 of them
 

aircargoo

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anyone here try that youtube method......looks great!...:rolleyes:

read about these being HELL to replace.

wouldnt mind a nice THICK new high end rotors....:cool: to me brakes have to be top shelf. responsive!
 

seeker

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Yes

I have used this "trick" you see on you tube several times on different vehicles. Have not encountered this problem on my expedition yet.
 

97_edition

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Wow, that method looks way too easy. I haven't had to pull my rotors off yet, but when I do, this is going to be the first thing I try. Thanks.
 
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