My 2010 sounds like an actual diesel at idle

[Stinky_1]

I'm looking for some help. My 2010 5.4 has the phaser tick at idle. Every once in a while it sounds worse, much worse.

Here is a YouTube video of the sound. I tried unplugging some coils to see what would happen while it was doing it and nothing made it change.

My guess is phasers gone really bad?

Has anyone else seen this? And did a phaser lock out kit solve the problem?

 

[1955moose]

Diesel sound is most definitely a phaser that went south. We've had many of our members with same issue. My advice, don't drive it too long, you will have a meltdown if you do. Sorry for the grim news, but that's part of the 24 valve variable timing woes! Let us know what you find/do.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Stinky_1]

At the risk of sounding naive, everything I have found online says you can drive it with phaser issue.

It doesn't sound like in the pic all the time, usually just a slight knock at low rpm noticed in the drive through.

I only let it run in the video so I can try a few things and run diagnostics.

No codes came up at all. And the sound goes away when you rev it up

 

[JExpedition07]

This sounds much worse than a phaser knock, get it checked out ASAP, I think you have bigger problems.

 

[Big Brian]

sounds like a rod is going to let go to me

I would have an oil pressure test done ASAP

 

[ExpeditionAndy]

It sounds like bad cam phasers and loose timing chains to me but it could be worse than that.

 

[Stinky_1]

Thanks guys for the feedback

Has anyone heard it this bad before?

The sound does go away if you stab the throttle and let it come back down to idle. And it usually inky starts when the engine has warmed up.

The idiot Guage says I have oil pressure. How low does it need to go before that Guage moves?

 

[Stinky_1]

This is the diagnostic feedback using VCM Scanner from HPTuners while the engine sounds like a diesel.

I stab the throttle (in gear) then slam the brakes hard while parked on a hill which will start the timing to flail widly, and fuel trim to go berzerk. While that is happening the engine sounds the same as posted in my other video.

Then I can rev the engine to 4000 (or so) RPM and let the revs return to idle and the engine sounds normal (still slight cam phaser tick) but no issues with timing or fueling.

I then put it in gear, hit the gas and slammed the brakes again to put it back into the trouble condition.

Does anyone see anything in any sensor feedback that should be investigated?

I plan to install the cam phaser bypass kit, program the engine to ignore the codes that will be generated, and then post the results and follow up with another video to see if all the problems go away.

I am buying an oil testing kit online and will post those numbers once I have them. I do also think oil pressure could be part of my problem. Ill have a clear view of the phasers if im into the engine that far anyway, so I will bypass them while I am at it so I dont have that to worry about too.

 

[gixer2000]

Check your oil pressure and you may just have a vtc solenoid issue

 

[Stinky_1]

Good call

I'm going to see if my local Canadian tire rents oil pressure tools out or if I need to buy one.

 

[Trainmaster]

How many miles on this piece of fine engineering?

 

[JExpedition07]

I guess it’s possible but it sounds more severe to me. The bad camphasers normally make a “glug glug glug” diesel sound this is pretty nasty. I wouldn’t be fooling.

 

[gixer2000]

Another set of good tips here to troubleshoot

 

[Stinky_1]

So, I decided to test the VCT solenoids.

This test starts with both VCT solenoids connected.

When I put it in gear, hold one foot on the brake and lightly bring the rpm up you can hear the engine start clunking and clattering.

Unplugging the driver side VCT only, and perform the same test and no sound is heard

Return it to normal and the chattering returns

I then try the passenger side VCT expecting the sound to remain, but disconnecting that side also seems to make the sound dissappear.

As long as 1 VCT is unplugged I do not hear the sound heard from my other videos.

Does this seem weird to anyone else?

Oil pressure problems would have the sound there with at least one VCT connected still?

I'm still hoping to find a tester that doesn't break the bank. Figured I would try this test while I can. But I'm still baffled.

The sound isn't as loud. But hopefully you can hear the difference

 

[gixer2000]

Maybe if you have low oil pressure it could be enough to operate 1 phaser but not both? It's a guess..

 

[JExpedition07]

If you unplug one VCT solonoid that will disable both camphasers , these trucks have dual equal variable cam timing.

 

[JExpedition07]

Thanks for posting the video it gives a lot better insight to your situation. When you unplug one of those VCT solonoids it will no longer allow the camphasers on either end to advance or retard timing, they are both effectively “bypassed”. I would not recommend leaving those unplugged for any period of time where the engine will be under load.... looks like you found your issue, one of the VCT solonoids. Spec on those should be between 5-14 ohms.

 

[Stinky_1]

Thanks jexpedition07, that explains a lot

So, with the results of my test, and looking at that other video for diagnosing the VCT, would we conclude that one or both of the solenoids are bad?

And, if that's the case, I still think locking the phasers is the answer as nobody seems to have bad things to say about that. And it will mean I don't need to replace these VCT either. They can be bad it won't make a difference.

 

[JExpedition07]

Thanks jexpedition07, that explains a lot

So, with the results of my test, and looking at that other video for diagnosing the VCT, would we conclude that one or both of the solenoids are bad?

And, if that's the case, I still think locking the phasers is the answer as nobody seems to have bad things to say about that. And it will mean I don't need to replace these VCT either. They can be bad it won't make a difference.

It’s your truck it’s up to you. I’ll say if it was my truck I’d pull the valve covers and replace the solonoids as it’s not a bad job and you’d still get the benefits of the vct.

 

[Trainmaster]

Just replace the dang solenoids. $100 for two of them from Ford. Locking them out is hack stuff, and you're no hack. Once you get the valve cover off it's one screw, and if you don't drop the screw and lose it somewhere in the head you'll be done in a minute.

Maybe that $2 Red Dot oil finally caught up with you, eh?