Yes! I very lightly lube the rubber insert in the spark plug socket with white lithium spray because it wants to stay on the plug when pulling the extension out!
Misfire count
- Thread starter Bain64
- Start date
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1955moose
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That's why using the right length locking or one piece socket extension is best bet, but we all have to figure what works best for us. It's a tight mess in there. Personally, I never had any luck with non insulation spark plug sockets. It's no fun to struggle that far just to find out you cracked the porcelain. On a second or 3rd edition model with broken/ stuck plugs to begin with, that would be adding fuel to a potential fire. I like the grease/release idea.
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Yes, you definitely have to figure out what works best for you but spark plugs sockets can be quite a conundrum. Some are very small diameter inside of the metal with a fairly thin and cheap rubber insert so they can even be more dangerous if you do rock them a little bit because the metal puts pressure and cracks the porcelain. The older ones seem to have more of a thicker rubber style bushing inside that was more of a donut so you had more leaning room until you're actually putting metal pressure unfortunately. Sometimes a standard 5/8 socket of a fully open variety can be the safest because it does allow you more room for the socket and extension to lean without putting pressure on the tip of the plug. I have gotten awfully good at not tilting the extension so I don't break plugs and I'm fairly ape ****** so I don't have much of a problem getting them plenty tight enough. All of my life I've had to be careful not to over tighten things.
I broke a plug last week and of all things, on a Chinese built Loncin snowblower engine. it's right there and looking right at you. There's just a slightly weird angle that the overhead valve valve cover pushes on the socket and come to find out my spark plug socket was a little shallow and the tip of the plug was protruding up into the smaller 3/8 Drive well where the extension or ratchet goes in. So the least little bit of tilting put pressure on the plug and snapped it.
I broke a plug last week and of all things, on a Chinese built Loncin snowblower engine. it's right there and looking right at you. There's just a slightly weird angle that the overhead valve valve cover pushes on the socket and come to find out my spark plug socket was a little shallow and the tip of the plug was protruding up into the smaller 3/8 Drive well where the extension or ratchet goes in. So the least little bit of tilting put pressure on the plug and snapped it.
Well the misfires have not gone away, and seem to be spreading. To recap:
I logged some data below over time:
Misfire count = % of last 1000 revolutions
LTFT is around -9% when idle and -7% when accelerating for both banks.
Rear to Front Switch Ratio for o2 sensors on bank 2 is out of bounds high, it should be 0.80 or less but is 0.83. Could the misfires cause this Rear to Front switch ratio to be out of bounds, or vice versa?
What should my next steps be to diagnose?
- Plugs are Motorcraft Sp479, replaced 2,000 miles and 3 months ago.
- Duralast COPs (unknown install date). Replaced cylinder 1 and 8 with new Motorcraft DG508 coils with seemingly no effect.
- P0430 code is back for inefficient bank 2 catalyst, and no wonder with those cylinders misfiring.
- The misfires themselves have not set a misfire code, i only see the misifre counts when looking at Mode $06 data.
I logged some data below over time:
Misfire count = % of last 1000 revolutions
LTFT is around -9% when idle and -7% when accelerating for both banks.
Rear to Front Switch Ratio for o2 sensors on bank 2 is out of bounds high, it should be 0.80 or less but is 0.83. Could the misfires cause this Rear to Front switch ratio to be out of bounds, or vice versa?
What should my next steps be to diagnose?
When I get misfires it's always a plug/coil issue. Are you clearing the codes and then rescanning to get results?
I would pull the ones that are showing repeated misfires and make sure no oil or water on boots and in wells. If not I would get a $30 set of ebay ones and pop them in at least the offending ones are ones that are not newer motorcraft.
See if that clears it up.
I would pull the ones that are showing repeated misfires and make sure no oil or water on boots and in wells. If not I would get a $30 set of ebay ones and pop them in at least the offending ones are ones that are not newer motorcraft.
See if that clears it up.
No i was not clearing the codes between tests, Mode $06 uses live data. Seriously considering all new coils like you mention. I also found that the Duralast (autozone) coils on it now have lifetime warranty, might go talk to Autozone about swapping them out. My aunt bought the Expedition from the dealer in 2004, but who knows which family member or auto-shop would have bought/registered the coils whenever they were replaced last.
Hopefully you can find a phone number that it's in their system under and get the coils replaced. Just tell them it's your aunt's car or whatever and you're not sure what number she put it under.
I always clear the codes for mode 6 information otherwise it racks up a cumulative count 4 a fairly long period of time that it's been counting up the misfires. I'm not certain how long this is for but you can get random counts in there from just starting the car or running over certain road conditions.
Even on a vehicle that does not miss with brand new coils and plugs Etc if you just scan the data and look at the mode 6 you might see a coil or two with some counts. Of course it will be a low number but it seems at least on my scanner the numbers don't go each digit 1 2 3 4 as the counts go. Mine will have zero or have like 54 then if there's more misses it'll have 96 or something. I've never seen a number like 10 or 12. The trigger on mine is greater than 200.
So when I see a cylinder or two with misfire counts, I clear the codes. Then when I scan it again without doing anything. I can even be sitting there with the car running and nothing has changed. They will all shows zero misfires then. Then I go ahead and drive it for a while and scan it again. When I get the same cylinders showing some misfires multiple times, that is when they are suspect.
I always clear the codes for mode 6 information otherwise it racks up a cumulative count 4 a fairly long period of time that it's been counting up the misfires. I'm not certain how long this is for but you can get random counts in there from just starting the car or running over certain road conditions.
Even on a vehicle that does not miss with brand new coils and plugs Etc if you just scan the data and look at the mode 6 you might see a coil or two with some counts. Of course it will be a low number but it seems at least on my scanner the numbers don't go each digit 1 2 3 4 as the counts go. Mine will have zero or have like 54 then if there's more misses it'll have 96 or something. I've never seen a number like 10 or 12. The trigger on mine is greater than 200.
So when I see a cylinder or two with misfire counts, I clear the codes. Then when I scan it again without doing anything. I can even be sitting there with the car running and nothing has changed. They will all shows zero misfires then. Then I go ahead and drive it for a while and scan it again. When I get the same cylinders showing some misfires multiple times, that is when they are suspect.
What option are you using to reset the mode 6 data? I don't see that option in Forscan or InCarDoc, it pulls current data fresh each time instead. Do you mean clearing the DTC's and does that clear the mode 6 data like you're talking about?
1955moose
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I did that with my battery. Told the guy at oreiilys the old owner's name, then he transferred into my name with replacement battery.
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