Steering wheel upside down

[texasscot]

It needs more than an adjustment. Check everything carefully. Something is worn, bent or broken.

This.
I’d disconnect the tie rods, take off the boots on the steering rack, measure and center everything. Then see where the steering wheel sits. Then you could work out if it’s been taken off and put on clocked wrong or if the rack is off center.
Personally I wouldn’t drive it on a public highway until the problem is understood and known to be safe. Just my humble thoughts!

 

[bnegaard]

Before you do anything, including drive it, get some one to turn the wheel side to side while you are under there looking at everything. Make sure nothing is flopping, loose etc. One easy and not too expensive way to check it out is to take it in for an alignment. They will usually tell you everything that's wrong or, if your lucky, align it.

As far as working on it yourself: An easy way to start is to turn the wheel all the way to one side and count the turns to fully go back the opposite way. Cut back 1/2 and your steering wheel is centered. Assuming no other problems (as mentioned above) you could only need to adjust the steering adjuster coming from the steering box. THAT would be really lucky but maybe someone replaced the parts and didn't know what they were doing.

I have a 1997 EB 1997 4x4-The first thing I did was a full front end rebuild including ball joints, tie rods etc (Rockauto and a long day in the dirveway). Then I took it to Firestone and paid for a lifetime alignment. That'll get you 50k miles or more without messing around.

 

[kountrykeith]

Update: first thank you to all who chimed in. This is what I have found so far. Everything I can see is pretty solid. No broken parts or worn bushings. The wheel turns the same amount of times side to side with the center being wheel upside down. I tried the string alignment on the toe. No problems on drivers side. On the passenger the coupler was frozen even after 2 hours with PB blaster. To the point that I broke a 10 inch crescent wrench I had a cheat pipe on the end of. Had to put a pipe wrench on it to move it. That tire was out by over half inch. So after turning the coupler 20 quarter turns it is still out by over 1/8 on inch. I will take it for alignment. I do have a question. I keep hearing people talking about steering rack. What I seem to have is a shaft that is attached to the pittman/idler arm that comes out of the bottom of the steering box. I dont see a rack. Am I ignorant?

 

[Trainmaster]

You're right. No rack. A shaft out of the steering box with the Pitman arm on it. Take a look at the coupling on the steering column between the wheel and the steering box. Easy to miss that and they disintegrate sometimes.

Just for the record, I know the Pitman arm is keyed to the shaft on the box and can only go on one way. I'm almost certain the steering wheel is keyed too.

 

[Thunderbirdsport]

Yes, I looked at some images of Expy steering wheels, they are of course like any other Ford wheel, only go on one way, as I'd figured they would.

OP, you're on the right track. Get it in the ballpark, replace whatever broken and worn stuff you see, and then get 'er aligned.

The string method works pretty well if you have a flat level floor. I did it one time on a Fox Tbird, I even used a long level fastened to a piece of 2x4 to get the camber pretty well set. The alignment guy said I had it pretty close that it would've been driveable and not had any adverse tire wear...more luck than skill. On alignments, I'll trust the machine over myself every time.

 

[texasscot]

Update: first thank you to all who chimed in. This is what I have found so far. Everything I can see is pretty solid. No broken parts or worn bushings. The wheel turns the same amount of times side to side with the center being wheel upside down. I tried the string alignment on the toe. No problems on drivers side. On the passenger the coupler was frozen even after 2 hours with PB blaster. To the point that I broke a 10 inch crescent wrench I had a cheat pipe on the end of. Had to put a pipe wrench on it to move it. That tire was out by over half inch. So after turning the coupler 20 quarter turns it is still out by over 1/8 on inch. I will take it for alignment. I do have a question. I keep hearing people talking about steering rack. What I seem to have is a shaft that is attached to the pittman/idler arm that comes out of the bottom of the steering box. I dont see a rack. Am I ignorant?

View attachment 39922

View attachment 39923

Nope, you’re not ignorant I am. I assumed same setup as my 2nd gen. Many apologies. Glad you got to the bottom of it and good pics. Lots of good advice here from many. Good luck.

 

[JamaicaJoe]

One thing to consider is that the steering wheel contains the airbag, horn switch, and possibly cruise control switches. They all connect to a circuit, called the clockspring in many makes, that must coil and uncoil as you turn the steering wheel. Be sure it is not damaged in the process of aligning the wheel.

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[Michael Shepherd]

Maybe I missed it in an earlier reply but if the steering components are all in working order and I know the airbag is a concern, but what prevents the OP from simply removing the steering wheel from the steering and rotating it 180 degrees and reinstalling?

 

[Thunderbirdsport]

Because the wheel only fits on the shaft one way...it's not so much keyed as there's a flat spot and a corresponding spot in the wheel. Only goes on one way.


His tie rods are out of adjustment, is all. He's trying to get it in shape enough to get to an alignment rack.

 

[JamaicaJoe]

The steering shaft could be attached to the steering box input shaft incorrectly at the knuckle . It is a knurled compression clamp. I would urge the OP to inspect it because it is subject to wear out because it is aluminum on hardened steel.

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