Need To Replace My Fuel Tank

[Robert Wagner]

My 2000 Expedition 4.6L XLT 2WD isn't holding pressure (evap system is unhappy) as tiny cracks have formed in the 21 year old plastic tank. Not to the point where liquid gas finds a way out... only vapors.

Shop says I need to replace the tank but the tank is no longer made. Apparently my only option is to find a NOS one or roll the dice on a pull from a junk yard.

Has anyone found a source for a replacement tank?

Thanks!

 

[Trainmaster]

If you have a local rebuilder of tanks, you may ask them if they can coat the inside. This is commonly done with metal tanks and it seals pinhole leaks and stops corrosion. Find out if this can be done with the Ford plastic tanks. Products are available that claim to do this, though I don't know if any are professionally acceptable and effective.

https://caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html

Also, before you go down this route, make darn sure the tank is leaking and don't just accept someone's word for it. I never heard of this happening, but I'm not a tank guy. It's much more likely the problem is in a hose, rotted steel line or elsewhere.

It's not easy, but I'd pressurize the tank and check for leaks or have a place that specializes in tank repairs do that.

-- One more joy of owning a 22 year old truck.

Has the right head gasket started to leak oil above the starter yet?

 

[Don Hall]

Research eBay:
eBay item number:
274512516985

Fuel Tank Fits 99-02 EXPEDITION 9806923

Condition:
Used

Price:
US $75.41

 

[Robert Wagner]

If you have a local rebuilder of tanks, you may ask them if they can coat the inside. This is commonly done with metal tanks and it seals pinhole leaks and stops corrosion. Find out if this can be done with the Ford plastic tanks. Products are available that claim to do this, though I don't know if any are professionally acceptable and effective.

https://caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html

Also, before you go down this route, make darn sure the tank is leaking and don't just accept someone's word for it. I never heard of this happening, but I'm not a tank guy. It's much more likely the problem is in a hose, rotted steel line or elsewhere.

It's not easy, but I'd pressurize the tank and check for leaks or have a place that specializes in tank repairs do that.

-- One more joy of owning a 22 year old truck.

Has the right head gasket started to leak oil above the starter yet?

The shop that diagnosed the issue performed a smoke test and took photos of the smoke emerging from leaks of the tank. So I have high confidence that my tank is compromised.

It may come down to using epoxy, in some shape or form, as "stop gap" as there doesn't seem to be a lot of options (so far).

With respect to the right head gasket leak issue, there hasn't been a documented sighting by my shop on that particular area (they are very thorough... for example they did note during the tank diagnostic that there is a oil leak next to the oil filter mount).

 

[Robert Wagner]

Research eBay:
eBay item number:
274512516985

Fuel Tank Fits 99-02 EXPEDITION 9806923

Condition:
Used

Price:
US $75.41

Thanks for the reference, but it is my understanding that the 2WD and the 4WD tanks are different and the aforementioned auction is for a 4WD.

 

[Robert Wagner]

I have uploaded a copy of the failed smoke test.

 

[Hamfisted]

Looks like either the vent valve grommet is dried out and leaking air, or the vent valve is possibly cracked and leaking air. Either can be repaired / replaced with available Dorman parts if you can't get it from your Ford dealer.

Or there are many available sealants and epoxies that would do the job as well. Some shops won't do sealants and / or epoxies because of liability issues. But if you can do the work yourself, use what you want.

 

[Robert Wagner]

Looks like either the vent valve grommet is dried out and leaking air, or the vent valve is possibly cracked and leaking air. Either can be repaired / replaced with available Dorman parts if you can't get it from your Ford dealer.

Intriguing idea.

The issue is see is that I am under the impression, and please correct me if I am wrong, that the black circular "nipple" that the smoke is pouring out of is "welded" onto the tank. I seem to recall reading that the part is sonically welded to the tank during the manufacturing process.

Not owning a sonic welder, nor skilled in sonic welding, I don't know how I would replace the defective one with the new part if I hand my hands on one!

Maybe if I tighten my thinking cap.... the answer will be revealed...

 

[Jay Federici]

Can't tell from pic exactly where the leak(s) are located. If it's the hard plastic that's cracked, how about cleaning and applying some epoxy to seal it from the outside? Just a thought but then again the ethanol/fumes may not be friendly to the repair. Is there an epoxy mix that can hold-up to the gas and fumes?

 

[JamaicaJoe]

I am curios as to how you became aware of the leak? Smell of fumes? A failure code? I have a 2001 and smell fuel when I exit the vehicle. A new gas cap seemed to help, but it is back.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

 

[engineer1]

My 2nd gen '03 has the same type of vents that have cracked (both front and rear) and the front one actually leaks raw gas when the tank is more than 2/3 full while parked on a slope. I have removed the tank and found the manufacturer's name Eaton molded into them. After researching, I concluded they were made of HDPE, high density polyethylene, which is difficult to impossible to bond. I bought a low cost hot air plastic welder from Harbor Freight, and a few different shapes of HDPE welding rod from various online sources to practice with. After completely draining the tank and blowing compressor air into it for a few days until gas vapors were gone, I have now welded the cracks. I believe the welds were successful, but I have not yet pressure tested to verify. This is a casual project, so I won't know for a while until I finish the job. but I thought I'd post it for consideration of an alternative process. I'm taking photos as I go, and if eventually successful I will post results. Be careful the welds don't interfere with the quick connect vent line fittings. Just be extra careful that there are no fumes present. Even though I felt it was safe I had a fan blowing the area and a fire extinguisher handy.

 

[Robert Wagner]

I am curios as to how you became aware of the leak? Smell of fumes? A failure code? I have a 2001 and smell fuel when I exit the vehicle. A new gas cap seemed to help, but it is back.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

The "service engine soon" light came on and the code reader returned "P0442."

 

[Robert Wagner]

My 2nd gen '03 has the same type of vents that have cracked (both front and rear) and the front one actually leaks raw gas when the tank is more than 2/3 full while parked on a slope. I have removed the tank and found the manufacturer's name Eaton molded into them. After researching, I concluded they were made of HDPE, high density polyethylene, which is difficult to impossible to bond. I bought a low cost hot air plastic welder from Harbor Freight, and a few different shapes of HDPE welding rod from various online sources to practice with. After completely draining the tank and blowing compressor air into it for a few days until gas vapors were gone, I have now welded the cracks. I believe the welds were successful, but I have not yet pressure tested to verify. This is a casual project, so I won't know for a while until I finish the job. but I thought I'd post it for consideration of an alternative process. I'm taking photos as I go, and if eventually successful I will post results. Be careful the welds don't interfere with the quick connect vent line fittings. Just be extra careful that there are no fumes present. Even though I felt it was safe I had a fan blowing the area and a fire extinguisher handy.

Eager to see your results as I may have to follow your resolution path as well!

 

[Robert Wagner]

Can't tell from pic exactly where the leak(s) are located. If it's the hard plastic that's cracked, how about cleaning and applying some epoxy to seal it from the outside? Just a thought but then again the ethanol/fumes may not be friendly to the repair. Is there an epoxy mix that can hold-up to the gas and fumes?

I did find https://www.jbweld.com/projects/gas-tank-repair but it seems tailored to holes as opposed to hair line cracks.

 

[tvlunn]

Refer to post #17 - JB Weld was used and the patch has now lasted for well over 14 months

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/trying-to-get-rid-of-p0442-small-evap-leak.43835/page-2

 

[Robert Wagner]

Refer to post #17 - JB Weld was used and the patch has now lasted for well over 14 months

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/trying-to-get-rid-of-p0442-small-evap-leak.43835/page-2

That procedure may be my only hope....

 

[zfifty]

Shop says I need to replace the tank but the tank is no longer made. Apparently my only option is to find a NOS one or roll the dice on a pull from a junk yard.

Might want to check with the salvage yard before laying your bets. The local "pull a parts" here drain all the gas tanks by puncturing a hole in them before the vehicle is placed in the yard. So even those would need repair.

 

[JamaicaJoe]

I am surprised no one sells an aftermarket tank in aluminum.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

 

[JB1258]

If you can find out what it is really made of Permatex is very good at having something to fix this also contact J-B Weld all of these if you need to seal the cracks I would call the mfg.I have listed and explain what you are dealing with and maybe they can help

 

[rjdelp7]

The EVAP monitor won't run when the tank is above 3/4 full, or outside temp is below 40 degrees. It will just show monitor 'not ready'. It also takes 2 failures to trigger the CEL light. Most states allow for 1(or 2) monitors to be not ready, for state inspection. If you keep your tank between full and 3/4 the light will never come on. You just have to clear the code.