Need To Replace My Fuel Tank

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engineer1

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My 2nd gen '03 has the same type of vents that have cracked (both front and rear) and the front one actually leaks raw gas when the tank is more than 2/3 full while parked on a slope. I have removed the tank and found the manufacturer's name Eaton molded into them. After researching, I concluded they were made of HDPE, high density polyethylene, which is difficult to impossible to bond. I bought a low cost hot air plastic welder from Harbor Freight, and a few different shapes of HDPE welding rod from various online sources to practice with. After completely draining the tank and blowing compressor air into it for a few days until gas vapors were gone, I have now welded the cracks. I believe the welds were successful, but I have not yet pressure tested to verify. This is a casual project, so I won't know for a while until I finish the job. but I thought I'd post it for consideration of an alternative process. I'm taking photos as I go, and if eventually successful I will post results. Be careful the welds don't interfere with the quick connect vent line fittings. Just be extra careful that there are no fumes present. Even though I felt it was safe I had a fan blowing the area and a fire extinguisher handy.
 
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Robert Wagner

Robert Wagner

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I am curios as to how you became aware of the leak? Smell of fumes? A failure code? I have a 2001 and smell fuel when I exit the vehicle. A new gas cap seemed to help, but it is back.

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The "service engine soon" light came on and the code reader returned "P0442."
 
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Robert Wagner

Robert Wagner

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My 2nd gen '03 has the same type of vents that have cracked (both front and rear) and the front one actually leaks raw gas when the tank is more than 2/3 full while parked on a slope. I have removed the tank and found the manufacturer's name Eaton molded into them. After researching, I concluded they were made of HDPE, high density polyethylene, which is difficult to impossible to bond. I bought a low cost hot air plastic welder from Harbor Freight, and a few different shapes of HDPE welding rod from various online sources to practice with. After completely draining the tank and blowing compressor air into it for a few days until gas vapors were gone, I have now welded the cracks. I believe the welds were successful, but I have not yet pressure tested to verify. This is a casual project, so I won't know for a while until I finish the job. but I thought I'd post it for consideration of an alternative process. I'm taking photos as I go, and if eventually successful I will post results. Be careful the welds don't interfere with the quick connect vent line fittings. Just be extra careful that there are no fumes present. Even though I felt it was safe I had a fan blowing the area and a fire extinguisher handy.
Eager to see your results as I may have to follow your resolution path as well!
 
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Robert Wagner

Robert Wagner

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Can't tell from pic exactly where the leak(s) are located. If it's the hard plastic that's cracked, how about cleaning and applying some epoxy to seal it from the outside? Just a thought but then again the ethanol/fumes may not be friendly to the repair. Is there an epoxy mix that can hold-up to the gas and fumes?
I did find https://www.jbweld.com/projects/gas-tank-repair but it seems tailored to holes as opposed to hair line cracks. :banghead:
 

zfifty

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Shop says I need to replace the tank but the tank is no longer made. Apparently my only option is to find a NOS one or roll the dice on a pull from a junk yard.


Might want to check with the salvage yard before laying your bets. The local "pull a parts" here drain all the gas tanks by puncturing a hole in them before the vehicle is placed in the yard. So even those would need repair.
 

JamaicaJoe

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I am surprised no one sells an aftermarket tank in aluminum.

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JB1258

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If you can find out what it is really made of Permatex is very good at having something to fix this also contact J-B Weld all of these if you need to seal the cracks I would call the mfg.I have listed and explain what you are dealing with and maybe they can help
 

rjdelp7

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The EVAP monitor won't run when the tank is above 3/4 full, or outside temp is below 40 degrees. It will just show monitor 'not ready'. It also takes 2 failures to trigger the CEL light. Most states allow for 1(or 2) monitors to be not ready, for state inspection. If you keep your tank between full and 3/4 the light will never come on. You just have to clear the code.
 

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