Starter Replacement - That Top Bolt.

[Trainmaster]

If you're going down this path and wonder how you get the top bolt out of your starter, I did the job in the street today. Two hours' work. Forty degrees out there. You need an assortment of 3/8 and 1/4 drive sockets, a stubby ratchet handle and a right angle Phillips screw driver.

I removed the front tire just to make my work area more pleasant, jacked up the car about ten inches and blocked it.

Remove the solenoid from the old starter with a right angle Phillips screwdriver. The screws are very loose. A half turn and you can spin them out with your fingers.

Once the solenoid was out of the way, the side and lower mounting bolts are easily removable. An electric ratchet makes this a s nap.

Gr0pe around to the top of the starter and stick a 13mm deep socket on the top bolt. You'll never see it. It's 160 degrees from the bottom mounting bolt. You'll find it. Then pop a stubby ratchet handle onto the deep socket and crank out the bolt. Mine was pretty loose.

The new one goes in the same way. There are YouTube videos showing how to attach the solenoid drive to the starter. Getting the pinion gear arm forward so you can hang the solenoid can fight with you. If you can't be bothered with the top bolt, you can install the new starter with only the lower two bolts which is what every dealership and shop that charges $1800 for the job does. If you care, spend the time, do it right and put the top bolt back in. If you installed a Chinese starter from Amazon or a Mexican rebuild, just leave the bolt out. You'll be doing this again in six months in some parking lot.

While you're looking around, check the wring loom above the passenger manifold, under the cylinder head in the wheel well. If it's all melted, you may want to protect those wires with something.

Good luck!

 

[Yupster Dog]

While you're looking around, check the wring loom above the passenger manifold

+2

 

[jeff kushner]

Hi Train! Hope all is well up there for the Holidays!

You getting old for doing that stuff on the street anymore, aren't you? LOL

Good post!

I had a 365K mile Chevette that had the same deal, blind access.....used to take 3 different extensions and 2 universals!

Take care brother.........

 

[Trainmaster]

You getting old for doing that stuff on the street anymore, aren't you? LOL

You know, Jeff, those were my exact thoughts when the rust was falling on my face. Yeah, I'm getting tired, and this 2008 is starting to cross that 15-year line. I'd better start saving for something better.

Hope all's well, my friend. And have a good Christmas.

 

[Trainmaster]

Just as a help to anyone who has to do this in a parking lot, this should cover the tools you'll need:

1/4" drive and 3/8" drive 13mm regular and deep sockets & Ratchet handles
10mm socket for starter terminal
8mm (?) socket to remove lead at battery.
3" 3/8" extension
Right angle Phillips screw driver (ratcheting)
Stubby (short) 3/8 ratchet handle (to turn out top bolt)
Coat hanger wire hook for pulling solenoid fork. (or a screwdriver bit to jamb in hole to position it)
Electric or air 3/8" ratchet handle will save you lots of time (or fine tooth ratchet).

Without the right angle screw driver and the stubby ratchet handle the job's next to impossible.

 

[Logan97]

I was just thinking about changing this soon and now that I've read this it sounds like so much fun.

 

[Frank Wilson]

I was just thinking about changing this soon and now that I've read this it sounds like so much fun.

I deleted the top bolt. But, Trainmaster's method ( solenoid removal ) is probably the best way to do it.
If I did it again, I would use an Allen head and lock washer for the top bolt.

 

[Trainmaster]

I considered leaving the bolt out. But what's another 20 minutes of cussing?

I removed the starter one day and installed the new one the next. That gave me the spirit.

The braided exposed wire between the starter windings and the solenoid rotted from salt... Otherwise with 140K miles, the starter was a champ. These things are pretty robust, so don't be quick to change a good one. Especially in Arizona. Remember that you never know what you're getting.

 

[Logan97]

I considered leaving the bolt out. But what's another 20 minutes of cussing?

I removed the starter one day and installed the new one the next. That gave me the spirit.

The braided exposed wire between the starter windings and the solenoid rotted from salt... Otherwise with 140K miles, the starter was a champ. These things are pretty robust, so don't be quick to change a good one. Especially in Arizona. Remember that you never know what you're getting.

It needs to be replaced unfortunately, but it lasted 210,000 miles so I'm not complaining. Got the new from my local ford, figured keeping it oe is probably a good idea.

 

[SafariGoneWrong]

I found having the fender liner removed helps--at least can get barely a visual of the bolt location and maybe a set of fingers in there to stabilize the deep socket or extension depending on how you attack the bolt. The job is so much easier with the engine raised off its mount (I was in there replacing the exhaust manifold).

 

[Matthew Jenkins]

Removed the starter to make room for access to the exhaust manifold that I just replaced. To find the top bolt just run your finger from the the ones you can see. They are all in line. You will feel it up there. I'll attach a picture of the set up the reached it. A stubby or maybe a 1/4" air ratchet may have helped, but the last torque you need at least a little leverage. One or two clicks at a time. Just need to some patience. I would never leave it out.

 

[Rob81]

Here is an alternative way to reinstall the top bolt. This worked perfectly : )

 

[Macho grande86]

If you're going down this path and wonder how you get the top bolt out of your starter, I did the job in the street today. Two hours' work. Forty degrees out there. You need an assortment of 3/8 and 1/4 drive sockets, a stubby ratchet handle and a right angle Phillips screw driver.

I removed the front tire just to make my work area more pleasant, jacked up the car about ten inches and blocked it.

Remove the solenoid from the old starter with a right angle Phillips screwdriver. The screws are very loose. A half turn and you can spin them out with your fingers.

Once the solenoid was out of the way, the side and lower mounting bolts are easily removable. An electric ratchet makes this a s nap.

Gr0pe around to the top of the starter and stick a 13mm deep socket on the top bolt. You'll never see it. It's 160 degrees from the bottom mounting bolt. You'll find it. Then pop a stubby ratchet handle onto the deep socket and crank out the bolt. Mine was pretty loose.

The new one goes in the same way. There are YouTube videos showing how to attach the solenoid drive to the starter. Getting the pinion gear arm forward so you can hang the solenoid can fight with you. If you can't be bothered with the top bolt, you can install the new starter with only the lower two bolts which is what every dealership and shop that charges $1800 for the job does. If you care, spend the time, do it right and put the top bolt back in. If you installed a Chinese starter from Amazon or a Mexican rebuild, just leave the bolt out. You'll be doing this again in six months in some parking lot.

While you're looking around, check the wring loom above the passenger manifold, under the cylinder head in the wheel well. If it's all melted, you may want to protect those wires with something.

Good luck!

Thread bump.

Trainmaster, hopefully you're still around to see this.....THANK YOU. I watched every YouTube video I could find and your direction was by far the most direct method for me to get this job done. I'd been dreading it for a couple of months as I'd already purchased the starter after my expy began showing symptoms of imminent starter failure. I wasted three hours yesterday fumbling with every extension and swivel I had before reading this post and running to harbor freight last night to pick up a stubby ratchet to try your method today. Viola, done in under two hours (that joker was pretty seized on there). I wrapped a 15" crowbar around the stubby handle to get a little more leverage and that did the trick.
Thanks to all of you for the assist.