I replaced both factory amplifiers and subwoofer (with bonus wire colors / wiring diagram)

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mr_dave

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I recently replaced the relatively weak factory amplifiers and it was actually a lot easier than anticipated! All of the wires (documented below) were very straightforward and it was not difficult to integrate aftermarket amps in the stock locations. I also replaced the 4 door speakers while I was at it, but I re-used the factory subwoofer driver which is actually not too shabby if you give it some proper power. I do have an aftermarket 8in subwoofer on order but I wanted to see what the original one could do, and it's actually not too bad after being properly adjusted.

I used a Kicker KEY 200.4 amp for the front and rear full-range door speakers and a Kicker KEY 500.1 for the subwoofer. These are similar physical size as the factory amps so I simply put them in the original locations. I also removed the subwoofer driver and added some internal bracing and sound deadening to the plastic enclosure.

Here are my findings:
- Sound clarity and volume are massively improved
- OEM subwoofer amp is garbage
- OEM subwoofer driver is better than anticipated but still can't keep up with aftermarket door speakers at higher volumes
- Also, the OEM subwoofer is DVC 1.3ohm so I wired it in series to get a 2.6ohm load for the aftermarket amp
- Wiring up aftermarket amps to the factory headunit was much easier than anticipated
- The small Kicker KEY amplifiers are perfect replacements with lots of adjustability
- The door speakers greatly benefit with a high-pass filter in the 60-80Hz range
- The subwoofer signal already has a low-pass filter, probably around 120Hz (estimate)

Front amplifier wires (large plug):
- purple/red +12v
- gray/blue right rear speaker (+)
- white/orange right front speaker (+)
- gray/yellow left rear speaker (+)
- white/black left front speaker (+)
- black/blue chassis ground
- yellow/purple +6v switched
- gray/white right rear speaker (-)
- white/purple right front speaker (-)
- white/green left rear speaker (-)
- white left front speaker (-)

Front amplifier wires (small plug):
Note these are the exact same colors as above, but it's the low-level (RCA) signal.
- gray/blue right rear signal (+)
- white/orange right front signal (+)
- gray/yellow left rear signal (+)
- white/black left front signal (+)
- gray/white right rear signal (-)
- white/purple right front signal (-)
- white/green left rear signal (-)
- white left front signal (-)

Rear subwoofer amplifier:
- brown/red +12v
- black/blue chassis ground
- purple/red +6v switched
- purple/green low-level sub signal (+)
- green/white low-level sub signal (-)
 

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mr_dave

mr_dave

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Today I replaced the factory subwoofer with a Kicker CompR 8in DVC 2ohm, which is perfectly matched to the Kicker KEY 500.1 since I can run it in parallel at 1ohm.

It's definitely better than the factory sub, but it's not a huge difference to be honest. It can hit lower frequencies better and it gets a bit louder, but again not a massive difference. If you don't need tons of bass you could easily use the factory sub and save a few $.

Also, an 8in sub is not a direct replacement. I had to fashion a ring to make the existing hole about 1in smaller diameter, as you can see in the picture.
 

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BlackBetty

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Good install. I like how your amp mounts in place of the OEM. I used a larger Alpine amp out of my ‘04 Expedition so I had to find another place… mounted it under the left rear seat. Used spacers between the floor and seat frame to ever so slightly raise the seat to make clearance for seat folding. Oriented the amp with control adjustments facing forward; just in case I needed to make any adjustments.
 

dashizzy92

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Hi everyone,

My project may be the same or a lot different. I have an 08 with factory radio unit/ DVD family entertainment system in the back, not sure what trim that makes it. I bought this last year with the sub blown... it wasn't a big deal for me, i unplugged the factory sub and the system still sounded decent enough. My father had a box sub with 2-12s in it that he gave to me with a mono amp. For starters i ran speakers wires from speakers both having their own (+ & - ) to the end of the harness that goes from the factory amp to the back of the blown factory sub. Plugged in the other side of the amp that gives the factory amp power and wala, it works, but it works enough i DEF heard this sub BANG LOUDER. Any advice? I don't have the aftermarket mono amp connected, because, I'm not sure whether it gets plugged in the rear somehow or in the front.. i know ill need a LOC adapter my factory radio does not have RCA inputs/outputs for the amp. Please help!
 

BlackBetty11

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Great write up! I was wondering how you got the input signal for the amp? I saw you listed the purple/green (+) and green/white (-) wires. But how did you tie those input wires into the amp (usually in the form of RCA wires)? Also it looks like there are a handful of wires coming out from behind the sub, do you remember which wires of those are used for the +/- speaker output?
 
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mr_dave

mr_dave

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@BlackBetty11 - I cut some male RCA cables up that I already had and spliced them into the factory wires. Then plug that into an aftermarket amp. You can also buy RCA pigtails that are ready to splice: https://www.amazon.com/-/he/4321/dp/B0BRN57PZP

For the subwoofer wires, the low level wires are listed above. If you're referring to speaker output from the factory amp, they are routed on the front of the box and are easily accessible. You can see the white wires in the picture above.
 
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BlackBetty11

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Awesome, that is exactly what I was thinking! Thanks for the info. I just swapped out an older Pioneer headunit for a new Alpine carplay unit and noticed the car could use a little extra bass. This will be on my to-do list.
 
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