2019 limited A/C not COLD

[bmk1]

I’m having trouble with my AC not very cold. I also don’t think it blows as hard as it should. I have a 22f150 work truck that will blow hurricane force winds where this I am constantly getting warm.

It was only 85° yesterday with a little humidity and after a short drive I noticed the AC really wasn’t very cold. We ran into Wally World and came back out to go home and it seemed like it was colder than before. I rented some gauges and it is showing 30psi on low and 150ish on high with max ac on. I searched but I couldn’t find a table or anything showing what it SHOULD be except for on “acpro.com”.

Air was about 68° from venta where my 2012 Tacoma is 54°.. it’s not even hot here yet so really wanting to get this fixed.

I know less than 2 years ago the previous owner has the from evaporator replaced. That dealership is over 4 hours away and I asked ford if it would be covered still they said it “may be” but wouldn’t say for sure and told me I should go back to that dealership.

Thoughts? I called a couple shops and it’s conflicting on whether I can just add Freon or if I should completely vacuum it out and check for leaks etc.

One guy told me to go to 75 on low and 175 on high but that’s definitely not what the acpro website says..

 

[2018ExpyPlatinum]

IDK. I've complained on here and to my dealer about my AC. Dealer says it's "ok", "fine", "nothing wrong". I don't think it's ever been "cold". Out here in AZ, mine is almost always set at 70 in the summer, or less, and it's comfortable, at best. My wife's RAV4 is set at 74-75 and it'll freeze you out. She has no tint and a sunroof. Mine IS tinted with a roof. I believe something isn't right.

 

[bmk1]

Too scared to put any 1234 in I still haven’t.

Took an hour trip today 70° and rainy. Front air seemed fine temp wise still not blowing very hard, rear air is definitely not cold.

On the way it was mayb75° and barely blowing out of the front vents but blowing hard out of the rear but neither was cold. I have no idea what to do with this thing at this point?

 

[2020-MAX-Limited]

I understand the best metric of A/C performance is the thermometer you stick into the air vent, not the low side / high side pressures. The thing you use the low side pressure for is not to over service (over fill) it. That will definitely lower the performance (it won't get as cold as it should). With the thermometer, you're looking for 42 degrees or better when blowing full cold and full fan speed.

As far as your airflow (low airflow) issue goes, can you check the cabin air filter for clogs? Personally, I do not know where my cabin filter is, or how to access it, but it might be clogged with leaves or other debris that could be blocking airflow.

 

[bmk1]

I understand the best metric of A/C performance is the thermometer you stick into the air vent, not the low side / high side pressures. The thing you use the low side pressure for is not to over service (over fill) it. That will definitely lower the performance (it won't get as cold as it should). With the thermometer, you're looking for 42 degrees or better when blowing full cold and full fan speed.

As far as your airflow (low airflow) issue goes, can you check the cabin air filter for clogs? Personally, I do not know where my cabin filter is, or how to access it, but it might be clogged with leaves or other debris that could be blocking airflow.

I replaced the cabin filter a couple months ago.

 

[GaryH]

May be just low on refrigerant. Try adding half a can of R1234 and see if the vent temp improves. It should be blowing 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit. Both, your low and high pressures seem a bit low to me.

 

[bmk1]

May be just low on refrigerant. Try adding half a can of R1234 and see if the vent temp improves. It should be blowing 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit. Both, your low and high pressures seem a bit low to me.

I ended up just making an appointment. My rear air is not blowing cost whatsoever and the front blows cold sometimes but not after the vehicle is driven for a while and heats up(possibly too high bc I need a new updated thermostat apparently) sigh..

 

[Joel_V]

My 2019 XLT Expedition was doing this a year ago. We had the Freon levels checked and they were really low, so the shop recharged them and within 5 weeks it started again, AC not blowing cold, and the air not moving hardly at all. Finally we got the dealer to take a look (extended warranty for the win) and they diagnosed it as a tiny hole in the evaporator coils, so they replaced that and it's been working better since then. I will say, a couple weeks ago after having drove for 2 hours it started again, but after I turned off a bunch of the settings on the AC, it started working again. Seemed to maybe be an electrical issue? It has been taking a bit to cool off when I start it up, but that might be because its summer and we're in the Florida panhandle. Although the entire we had it in Phoenix the AC worked fine. I hope they diagnose the problem correctly and get you repaired!

 

[bmpcamry09]

Just get it checked by a shop that can work on 1234yf systems. It’s a crap shoot without evacuating the system, installing dye, recharging, and checking for leaks after a few days.

In the mean time, do the basics. You can check cabin filter (sounds like you already did) and hose down your condenser/radiator to rid it of dust and bugs.

I’ve seen the AC lines that feed the rear evaporator leak and also main evaporator cores leak. The latter is an expensive labor intense job that requires dash removal.

Good luck! Be prepared for the cost of 1234yf too. It sucks!

 

[bmk1]

Just get it checked by a shop that can work on 1234yf systems. It’s a crap shoot without evacuating the system, installing dye, recharging, and checking for leaks after a few days.

In the mean time, do the basics. You can check cabin filter (sounds like you already did) and hose down your condenser/radiator to rid it of dust and bugs.

I’ve seen the AC lines that feed the rear evaporator leak and also main evaporator cores leak. The latter is an expensive labor intense job that requires dash removal.

Good luck! Be prepared for the cost of 1234yf too. It sucks!

Im having both the thermostat replaced and the A/C looked at Wednesday. I am already afraid of what the bill is going to be.

 

[bmk1]

So far they have determined both my high and low AC lines are leaking at the compressor and it had less than half the necessary Freon that it needed to have. Once they replace and recharge hopefully the rear evaporator is good and that fixes it but won’t know until they get it recharged.

 

[Deadman]

They just replaced the rear evaporator core on mine because it was leaking. They couldn't see the leak without major disassembly in the rear....

 

[bmk1]

They just replaced the rear evaporator core on mine because it was leaking. They couldn't see the leak without major disassembly in the rear....

Luckily they found no other leaks and my extended warranty that I purchased through Endurance paid for the AC repair. That along with my thermostat the AC is cold as ice and blowing hard. Fingers crossed we are good for a while. I can’t even schedule a vacation this summer bc I have no faith in this car yet..

 

[Mack444]

Just hit 22k miles and noticed (on the first warmer day we have had) that ac wasn’t cold. Evaporator core is supposedly bad or leaking so will be Expeditionless for up to 4 days. Any recommendations on how to maintain and avoid these issues in the future, or is it just lower quality parts being used on new vehicles?

 

[Mr Big]

I ended up just making an appointment. My rear air is not blowing cost whatsoever and the front blows cold sometimes but not after the vehicle is driven for a while and heats up(possibly too high bc I need a new updated thermostat apparently) sigh..

A few things could be causing it. Stuck vents, outside air coming in, low on refrigerant, blockage, and inside temp adjustments.
Check your rear air and make sure the temp knob is set to lowest, (all the way to left). I have an occasional passenger that kicks the knob with her foot and cranks it on hot. It battles with the front and causes my air to feel too warm.
Your vent air should be around 54 degrees. And your high pressure should be higher. So, it may need refrigerant.

 

[Mack444]

Turns out it’s a leaky evaporator core, needs to be replaced. Taking way too long now with warmer weather starting, we are boiling. Anyone have some positive way to get Ford to help me out with the terrible service departments, or am I just stuck dealing with them on my own and need to just keep looking for a better one around?

 

[spo0587]

Just go to good independent shop. This happened to mine, was rear evap core. Around 1600 bucks. I think it takes like 20-30 oz of refrigerant. Mine only had 7oz. Make sure the shop has 1234YF equipment.

 

[Dice Roll]

My local dealer was hard to get to anything close to the deal I got 600 miles away. For several years I’ve had issues getting work done.

After all the oil, coolant, stat out of pocket, then brakes and tires, now they are getting good to deal with on service. Even gave me a brand new no miles loaner for the oil leak repair a few weeks ago. Advisor looked at my history with them and said ok.

I’d say only real way is to lock onto a dealer and don’t let go. Pay the piper as they say. The work they’ve done has been good and they do the tsb stuff I want.

 

[Fizzy]

Last spring I noticed our AC was blowing warm after the winter where it wasn't used at all. Took it to the dealership. The schrader valve was defective. They ran the part number through the warranty computer. Not covered. Basically the only part on the whole system not covered. They wanted hundreds of dollars to repair it. Corporate stepped in and paid half. Was not happy about that but what can you do.

 

[spo0587]

@mac444 How is the AC now?