A lot of people use the Edge and SCT programmers with good results. I have not found anyone who has been unhappy with them. They are expensive but they pay themselves off. Otherwise 5 Star can help with a custom tune to load onto the ECU.
I would still check the brakes. Those metal tabs have worked their way all the way out to the rim on me before. I end up beating them back into place with a small hammer. Try and imagine what is happening when you hear the clunk. Eventually you will notice a pattern and be able to narrow it...
Check junkyards. They are just crossover rungs. Roof racks from 97-98 models are taller than the 99-02 models in order to allow for the vehicles to fit into a conventional garage opening. I would imagine they are all the same width so its up to you which route you go.
Lower rear control arms are something to check for rust holes. They are not a very good design. Spark plugs are good to replace around that mileage, wheel hubs are something to keep an eye on too. You will hear a rhythmic hum at highway speed. As for the ball joints, when they go bad/dry up...
I have the Pioneers in the front slots and are very happy with them for what they set me back. Rear is still stock but I would do those Pioneers back there as well if my money tree seeds would ever take.
I bought them from Best Buy as well and they had a wiring harness for about 10 bucks that...
I think those are the only ones. You would probably be more satisfied with a conversion kit to regular suspension though. Call a dealership and they can get you the part number for the shocks. Same thing if you call Monroe.
I don't think you would damage anything that you will need to keep for the conversion, at least not in the next couple of weeks. Double-check your lower control arms for rust holes in them, that would be my main concern since you live in MI. Other than that, just take her easy on speed bumps.
Cut mine out too. No way my single din was fitting with that in the way.
That explains why the filler plate I have seems just a bit too big for the opening.
60mph is about 1700 RPM's in 4th gear (O/D) for my truck. That is about as high as it should be since I have the highest rear end gear ratio Ford offers stock with the Expedition, 3.73's. Any lower gear ratio and you will run lower RPM's at the same speed.
Are you experiencing high RPM's...
Take it to a sound shop and have someone listen to it from there. Stealerships are useless. Someone who deals with radios for a living will be able to tell you if the factory units are just cheap or if yours is defective.
More than likely the stealership doesn't want to replace the radio...
We're all here to share knowledge. If you don't want to share the knowledge you have, then why waste time typing out a response instead? The point of the forum is to make things as easy as humanly possible for anyone that asks a question. We're here to save money and time, not berate one...
I would say 90% of the time you can replace the COP and plug and the misfire will go away. Like bedrck46 said, I think you have the cylinders backwards.
That's like saying you shot your leg to test how much pain you can take haha.
I put new brake pads on the passenger rear. They were dragging pretty bad. The temperature got up to 0F today so I figured this may as well be the day to get it done...
Hopefully the other side lasts till it...
Get a pliers and just bend it back and forth until it breaks off. That's what I did to get mine in. There was no way I was reaching those bolts holding it on.
As far as the wiring harness, you need to order an adapter kit and then splice the wires together. Its pretty easy...
Honestly just pull the fuse for the ABS. I had similar issues with it about 2 years ago. Pulled the fuse and never looked back. Only downside is the ABS dashlight is on all the time, but it doesn't really bother me. Everything else works fine with the brakes.
It's my understanding that they are not difficult to install, and most shops I'm sure are equipped with the kit already. I would imagine if you paid someone it would not be more than 150-200 bucks.
Sometimes things get weird when it is super cold like it has been. If it's the first time it happened, chalk it up to a fluke. Once my truck randomly would not shift to drive. Reverse worked fine. Trans shop pulled the pan and put it back together and it's worked fine ever since...
Maybe somebody snuck a turbocharger into your engine bay...? Do you get any sudden acceleration after a moment of being on the gas!?!
In all seriousness though, do you have a check engine light on? Does it sound like a bad bearing? Does it change pitch with different RPM's?
Yeah that is the main engine fuse, or at least related to it. Very important haha. Nothing wrong with replacing something before it breaks though in regard to your alternator.
I did the same thing with my CV axles while trying to diagnose a bad humming noise. It turned out to be the year...
Personally I would. If the ball joints are bad, the tie rod ends are not too far behind. May as well only have to have it in the shop once vs twice. Plus that would mean two separate alignments if you don't do them together.
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