LOL, thats a good write up. I have the same problem with my temp gauge. I replaced the sender with a Advance auto unit and it still doesn't work. So now I know its probably the sender not the instrument panel. My solution for the time being was more fun though. I have a tablet and the Torque...
It's a 1998 motor and a NPI. So I'm a little sad. But it's not going backwards it's just staying even. Here are some pictures of the motor.
[URL=http://s541.photobucket.com/user/bowesmobile/media/1415481387.jpg.html]
[URL=http://s541.photobucket.com/user/bowesmobile/media/1415481363.jpg.html]...
Okay, so I think you're on track. The cold idle seems a little high. But get a new PCM from a similar year and try it out. Watch out for the security and make sure the key will work. But I dont know what else to warn you about. You seem on track.
I'm getting mixed results on that. The motor is out of a 1999 F150. Now some say no they didn't get the PI heads and intake until 2001. Others say it was late model 1998 builds and on that got it. Then others say yes all 1999 F150's have it. I'm going to check the heads and see if its written on...
I'm going to be swapping my 4.6L from my 1997 for a good running 4.6L from a '99. I will try and document as much as I can for posterity and maybe be able to help someone out in the future.
To update this thread. I went and looked at the expedition. I does have the 4R70W. The trans would not go into any gear. Forward or reverse. It felt like it was slightly engaging when you put it in gear. I checked the fluid and it was brown and burnt. I'm really not interested in the trans...
Personally it looks like the plastic connector rubbed through the metal line with the rust and all. I would ditch the plastic connector and put a rubber sleeve over the metal lines in that area. Try to clean and spray the metal lines with rust converter and paint them to make them last longer...
It's possible its the U-joints. Its also possible its the pinion shaft bearing having worn out. You have to crawl under it and see where its loose. Usually grabbing the drive shaft and twisting it will show you where. Or just take and replace all the U-joints and if the noise persists it has to...
Guys this is all great stuff. Here's my thing. I'm looking for items it could be that are not obvious. Like a solenoid pack or a pressure switch that sometimes goes bad and causes an issue like this. Thanks all, please keep them coming!
Thanks. The one picture has all the Eddie Bauer cladding and the interior is cloth as well. So hey if it's really a bad Trans the motor is going into my '97.
I'm going to look at a 1998 XLT with the 4.6L and I am assuming the 4R70W. The owner told me the trans is shot. When I asked what it was doing, she stated that it would engage when you put it in drive but wouldn't move. So I'm wondering if there is something solenoid related or a simple fix this...
Hey dont give up yet. These SUV's are much better than this. It sucks you're having to drop cash into it. But it is 13 years old. Have you had it all of those 13 years? Sometimes these thing just happen in succession and then there's nothing wrong for a long time. Mine has 232k and is still going!
Well, I'm not going to argue with you. But there have been reports of programmers on the dyno seeing the spark knock happening in the reports. I hear it in mine and it can sound like a low tap on a tin roof. If you're not listening you can easily miss it. I stick to what I said. I dont know how...
This sounds like spark knock because of timing. Its a loss of power without a mis-fire. These motors are notorious for it. I didn't know that until I owned one and mine does it when you romp on it hard.
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