The reason the A/C will stop blowing completly is because all of the blend and position doors are vaccum operated.
When the motor is under a heavy load or you are at WOT vaccum levels diminish and the doors will actually close until they have enough vaccum to reopen.
As for the A/C not...
To reprogram the transmitters,
place the key in the ignition and
switch from OFF to ON eight times
in rapid succession within 10
seconds. After doors lock/unlock,
press any button on all
transmitters (up to four). When
completed, switch the ignition to
OFF.
All transmitters must be...
The dipstick tube itself is actually a 2 piece tube ( the conection is about 5-6 inches from where the tube goes into the trans), the support for the tube is bolted to the engine block.
You may want to unbolt the support and seperate the tube and take a look at the o-ring it could be a cheap...
Have you checked the fuel pressure again now that you put in the new pump?
If it is still around a max of 30psi then I would definatley change out the FPR before gutting the cats.
You can cut out the rear cats and replace them with a piece of straight pipe. This will NOT cause a CEL, the bad thing is if you where to gut all of the cats you will loose quite a bit of low end power.
I would appreciate those pics and regarding the bushings if it seems like a doable project I would upgrade to all greasable polly bushings. Thanks for the input :waytogo:.
It could be your transmission, or it could be the bearings in the rear axle.
Any vibrations?
How long have you had the Expedition?
How long has it been making the sound?
With the window down can you hear it more like it is right under you or towards the back of the truck?
For the door code to unlock all doors you would need to add the #3 to the end of your code.
As for the drivers door not wanting to unlock it sounds like you need to clean and lube the lock actuator with oil. Make sure to clean and oil all of the rods while you are in there since they do get...
So I was under the Expedition a couple of weekends ago replacing the transmission, when I noticed a large conector mounted to the floor board at the tail of the trans. It has a cap plugged into it and I found out that the Expedition is prewired for either 2wd or 4x4 (also have the plug for the...
This is great info, but if you look at my other post you will see your numbers are off by 300# depending on if he is looking at a 2wd or a 4x4. A 2wd with a WDH setup can handle a trailer up to 8,900#. The GCWR does not change between 2wd or 4x4 but the extra weight from the t-case and front...
This is straight from the owners manual
***NOTE ALL WEIGHTS ARE IN #'S AND REQUIRE TRAILER BRAKES****
GCWR - GROSS COMBINED WEIGHT RATING (Expedition with all persons, gear, and trailer combined).
2WD
5.4L with standard trailer tow package
GCWR 11,800 Trailer weight 0–6,000...
The only time I can hear the pump on mine is when I first turn the key to the on position and do not start it. I can hear it build pressure then shut off.
It is a posibility that it is the pump and what you said about the 1/4 tank is correct. But one thing on a side note I have also seen...
Not sure on other generations of the Expedition but on the first gen if the ignition is on then the remote will not work.
BUT here is the good news!!!! If you know your door pin pad code then you can do exactly what you are wanting to ( if you don't know the code look up under the dash above...
Just like Stoned06 stated without being able to hear the noise you are talking about it is really hard to give you any ideas. Also besides hearing the noise we would need to know if it is a 2wd or a 4x4.
Does the sound go away after 40mph?
Has it always done this since you got it or is...
even if you only have the 4pin conector the provision for the brake controller is under the dash.
The only difference is the 7pin the wire is already hooked up to the conector and on the 4pin the wire is stubbed and tucked into the harness in the rear so you just have to locate it and conect...
I would start by replacing the fuel pressure regulator, there is a good chance that it will fix your problem and is cheaper than the pump ( about $60 ) from what I can find the cheapest pump is just over $200 up to almost $500 for a motorcraft :eek: .
On the first gen's (at least my '02) the lock actuator is on a pivot so there is no realigning the actuator. More than likely it just needs a good cleaning and lube.
Normally a local exhaust shop will NOT remove two cats because it is against the law for them to do it. You can however find private mechanics that will or a buddy with welding skills that can do it.
You will pick up a little milage but not much. The main thing it is good for is better...
Try Oreillys they carry the Motocraft shocks for front and rear for the expys with 4 corner air ride.
If you do not have 4 corner air ride and all you have is the rear air ride, then check out the KYB shocks that they carry. They are a little more on the heavy duty side.
If there is no check engine light then the scanner will not pick it up. The dealer does have trouble shooting guides to diagnose the problem but they are usually the only ones which means you will have to pay.
COP stands for Coil On Plug and since there are 8 of them that is where COPs comes from.
The cat delete is exactly what you think. The first gen's (not sure about newer) have 4 Catalytic converters, you can remove the rear 2 for more power and it will not set off a check engine light.
Ebay CAI, throttle body spacer, new COPS and plugs, Flowmaster 70 series DI/SO, rear cat delete, Y pipe delete and Edge CS on level 3 running premium.
Can definatley feel the difference on the butt dyno, and with the Edge on level 3 I picked up 4 MPG. I went from 15 average to 19 average and...
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