The 'switch' part of the relay is between 30 and 87. So on the upper relay 30 and 87 interrupt the + line to the lights. So, of course 30 does not go to ground.
There are also some other issues. That I don't have time to go in to right now.
So what you want is a master "off" switch and a...
To backtrack a bit, you are sure that the pump is getting power, correct?
A bad fuel pump relay or tripped inertia switch (or even a blown fuse) can make it seem like the pump is dead.
Remember, you can't just put one of those cheap electric fuel pumps for carbs, they don't push enough pressure for fuel injection.
At minimum, you'll need something like this.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8445
and you may still have to pull the old pump to allow enough fuel flow.
If you have a hissing sound, it is probably coming from the booster or the vacuum line to the booster. There is also a check valve that goes between the booster and the vac line that could be at fault.
Since the pedal is hard when the truck is off, I don't think that the master cylinder is...
It could just be a fluke if it has just happened twice. That new speed sensor could have been bad.
But if you have had more than two go bad, I'd start looking at for outside causes. Wiring harness, etc.
It also sounds like the cable and/or pedal assembly needs to be lubricated.
Check the shoes and related springs by removing the rotor. The pads are cheap and easy to replace.
If I ever need to do the motor, I'm probably just going to call these guys:
Ford 8 Cylinder Engines
And then just swap the motors myself. I just don't think that, when it's all said and done, that I'll save any significant money doing it all myself. Plus there's the warranty.
You would definitely need the control pack for the Coyote crate motor. It includes the harness and ecu. It's supposed to be a wide motor, so you may have to do a bit of measuring.
From what I've heard, the Ford Motorsport guys are supposed to be pretty helpful with swap info. Contact them...
From what I understand it's a vibration issue. Every lift manufacturer has an "except AWD" note in their application chart. You may need to get a different driveshaft if you get a vibration.
Sounds like the center axle disconnect. Often times the steel rod that goes through the aluminum housing will corrode and the lever won't engage (or disengage).
Use that camera to see if the lever on the front axle moves when you turn 4wd on and off.
Oh wow. 35" tires with 3.55 gears AND a 4.6L? That puppy won't get out of its own way.
You really need 4.30s or even 4.56s if you're going to turn a 35" tire with that setup.
Also a 285 75 - 16 is just under a 33" tire.
You're never going to get every last drop out of the trans, so I wouldn't worry about it. Flushing it 3 times is above an beyond what most places would ever do.
Correct, sometimes you need to stretch the truth about what vehicle is going to be on the trailer.
A while back, Uhaul wouldn't rent me a trailer because my tow vehicle was my scout II with a soft top. They said that all tow vehicles need a hard top. Still don't know what difference it makes.
WD 40 Rust Release penetrant is the best stuff out there. Soak it front and back and let it sit for an hour. Then go pick up some grade 8 bolts and nuts and try it again.
I would change out the rear diff fluid, making sure to add some limited slip additive. Without the additive you can feel some notchy-ness when the one tire breaks loose.
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