I think there is a how to around here somewhere, or the F-150 forum has it. I read thru it once, iirc, you have to run a jumper wire in the harness. not 100% tho
I believe the harness is there. I have pulled 5 switches and all had the two large connectors, even if no factory fog.
Also, the switches are the same from the 99ish to 02ish sables. The front cover is different. But the internals are the same. This might be a good option for the auto head...
This how to is for you if you replace your headlight switch, currently have fogs, but the new switch does not.
First, remove the switch and proceed as pictured to remove the casing.
Once the casing is removed, you will need to remove the circuit board. There are no screws or...
This is a little how to on mechanically modifying the headlight switch to allow the use of fogs in any position.
First, you need to remove your headlight switch. After removed, use a small flat tip to remove the outer casing.
Once removed, you can either remove the faceplate...
I have a few Head Light switches I have gathered over the past few months during my HL melt down :bleh:
I have two switches that are mechanically setup for fog, non-auto HL and dim. This means the pulling action is functional, but lacks the internal piece that activates the switch for the...
I have a good used working radio. Will fit first gen expedition, possibly others, not sure. Will also fit in Ranger (98+) Crown Vic, F-150, etc. This radio takes the 2/3 large square plugs. If you have the long rectangular plugs this will not fit.
Price is $50 shipped to lower 48. Canada guys...
HEY!
I took a quick video from the interior. I think it sounds mean as fock! And it dont have that shitty chevy 350 rap to it :D Videos are uploading to youtube.
And I suppose I should point out, the muffler had literally blew in two pieces. And I was not fond of the exhaust smell and noise from the muffler being trashed. I had some pipe and made the fix.
There is no noise in cab. And the exhaust sounds a 100 times better while actually driving it and having a load on the motor. The crack is non-exsistant. And it sounds very healthy. It is not overly loud (like being straight piped)
I will try a video in the cab and/or on the rear bumper area...
The muffler literally blew apart and split its seams. Last year I took it out and just put 2.5" pipe from where the muffler use to be back with a 4" tip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znEroXcLwfU
Mine has T-bar crank. I also have stock size 265's. I like it, you wont get a tru 2", unless your completely un-cranked. But should be enough to make it look good.
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