I would check the wiring and pigtails that go to the module, check the wiring .
Maybe corrosion.....water got under the seat....burned wires.
In the manual, search for the fuse for the pass. heated seat module.....see if it powers anything else.
If the part in conjunction also isn't...
@jrny4rbys
If you do this replacement, when you remove the solenoid, make sure that you DO NOT DROP the screw when removing, It will fall down into the timing cover/oil pan, and it's game over.
Might as well do a timing job while you're in there fishing for it.....personal experience.....
The 6R80 had a major redesign in 2010, for the 2011 MY. New valve body, computer, One-Way Clutch, etc.....
May work with the new trans computer (computer is w/ valve body), but because it's a complete new design, don't know if the PCM will have issues with adapting the different transmission...
2010 El....250K Miles
5W-30 every 5,000 Miles
Trans fluid never changed until 220K
Replaced inlet heater hose @160k
Coils and spark plugs @160K
Timing Job @218K
Tranny Bulk Seal @220K
Blend door & Resistor @220K
Radiator and Thermostat @220K
JB Weld rear A/C Line @230K
Tranny fluid bridge...
Depends on trim level and what the interior looks like, tire conditions, what else has been replaced on the vehicle......
I would say 2k is a good estimate.
If you turn it down to 60, does it automatically turn on Max A/C?
I know some versions do that.
If that's the case Max A/C turns on the Recirculated Air, which if that actuator is bad, it will knock.
Try getting a pair of large hand clamps, clamp hard around the part of the hose where it hooks onto the radiator, and try giving it a couple turns.
Once it turns free then it should be easy to come off.
This is a reset procedure for the actuator to relearn the full cold and full hot positions for the door.
I did this on my 2010 a while back, this procedure has to be done everytime the blend door is unplugged and/or replaced.
In the Passenger Compartment Fuse box, pull fuse #46, (Owners...
I did this a while ago on mine, 2010 Expy 4x4,
I had to remove the two bolts for the steering rack, which allowed it to drop enough.
Try that and see if it helps
That feature doesn't exist for the Expedition's. Instead of park, opening the driver's door unlocks everything
It only unlocks all doors once the driver's door is opened, after the engine is shut off and it's in park.
Independent shop should give you a better price, but insist the shop that they use Ford OEM parts.
It's not worth the risk w/ aftermarket parts when it comes to the powertrain.
It's up to you about the reman....does the reman come with new turbos as well?
I've heard they don't, but some do...
If Melling offers an High volume oil pump for the 3.5 1st gen, then I would swap that in there as well.
Do the timing system.
Do the front cover crank seal as well
How many miles?
Have a shop check the refrigerant levels in the systems. Does the A/C Compressor turn on when it's above 80 degrees?
The fans will come on high @high ambient temp because it wants to keep air flowing through the condenser when the car is stopped or at low speeds.
It is normal during hot days...
That's exactly where I had my leak. The high pressure line rubbed against the frame (the thinner one)
I patched it with JB weld, and then i used zip ties to tie the high pressure line back away from the frame, towards the low pressure line. This kept it away from the frame.
The lines rub...
It's the O2 sensor. P2240 came up on my 2019 Expy around 135k.
Seems to be a common issue with these 4h gens
Usually the other O2 sensor goes bad not too long after the first one, needed to replace both upstream sensors on my 2019.
Everything seems to be built cheaper these days, 247k on my...
Check the heat shield on the muffler side, the runs from the passenger side catalytic converter to the muffler.
It's a pretty big one, and will rattle loudly when it comes lose.
Since it's only at a certain RPM, you can rule out any major valvetrain/engine rattles.
Yes, the OSS is inside the trans.
It's attached to the valve body. It's a doable job for DIY, can be messy though...
If no experience with mechanics, then I would take it to a shop.
See if your local car parts store can scan the codes, most of them do it for free...
Make sure you ask if they can look for any codes that are "stored" from previous events. They'll have to look for them in the scanner as they won't pop up as active faults.
The speedo dropping out sounds like...
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