This would be so much work for such little gain... I just bought one of these, made a platform that fits in the dash cubby, and mounted it to that. When I finish towing, and park the trailer up, I just take it out and store it in the trailer.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07ZR4X42S
My 2020 used to do trailer BLIS every time, then one day it decided to stop. I've reinput the measurements several times, but as soon as I hook up, it tells me BLIS is disabled.
I'll try the suggestion in @HILLY 's post.
As for Pro Trailer Backup Assist - it works flawlessly on our 33ft...
My understanding is that once that rattle stops (1-2 seconds) the phasers operate normally. They just don’t prime with oil properly at the start. Or something like that.
No apologies needed man. It sucks for sure.
Not sure when the redesigned parts came out but if I was a betting man I’d say it was after your repair.
If it’s any consolation, I had both valve covers replaced for cracks/leaks - and they came from the factory like that. The next time they need...
Platinum came with the roof cross bars. The Ford OEM pair of crossbars on Tasca parts are $144.
The box is a Yakima Skybox 21. It’s the only roof box I could find that can use the roof bars at their furthest spread position.
The front roof bar is fixed. But the rear one can be in 2...
Dealer won't replace them - only spray lube in and send you on your way. I forget the price, but it's about $800 per running board motor... why this much makes no sense to me.
Some background on my situation... Year 3 and with all the salt/sand/pickle mix they cover the roads with here 6...
Were they done with the revised part, or the old part? I thought I'd read some of the early cam phaser repairs coming back to haunt their owners later.
I mean, I agree with you, that the noise should be more prevalent up top - but it's pretty hard to argue with the sound comparison...
This is not the HD Tow package - it's just the tow electrical plugs (7 pin, 4 pin) at the back under the removable bumper cover.
You're not going to be able to add eLSD for all the reasons @DieselMonk mentioned, and many more he didn't, including spending a small fortune - move on from the idea.
When pulling our approx 8000lb trailer, the highest I see uphill is 101c (so 214f), and on flats coasting I see an average of 97-99c (206 - 210f). And we live at altitude (3700ft) so the air is thinner.
I checked the specs of the ULV trans fluid Ford uses and that temp is well within spec...
You don't need to change the setting if you haven't changed the overall rolling diameter...
If you went from a 22 to an 18 rim and got the correct tires, it means you also went from a low profile tire, to a much fatter tyre. The rolling diameter stayed the same, and so the speedometer will...
It's horrific. A wall of subforums under each generation. 99.9% of posts in the Gen 4 forum are just under the general Generation forum. Now we have to deliberately choose a sub forum, after scrolling down a few acres of subforums we never use...
It's bad enough that I had 2 threads I wants...
Something has chewed through your wiring. You found two areas, but there could be many more.
Only a dealership (or a good mechanics) can fix this, and I'm afraid it probably won't be cheap.
Get it towed.
Google it. I did, and there's countless posts about this. Every Ford forum I can find has this same thread - F150s, Explorers, etc - anything with ACC. And the overwhelming consensus is everyone (except you) has it, and it's standard expected behaviour.
Not sure why yours is the exception...
There’s 2 fuse boxes. Engine compartment. Passenger compartment. Have you gone through the fuses in the passenger compartment?
Also, under the cupholder rubber mat there’s a key slot used for programming the keys. Also, there’s a way you can touch the key to the remote start button or something...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.