You have a short somewhere or in something. Maybe a rodent chewed some wires. Maybe a component went bad and is now heating up and draining your battery.
Put a multimeter on the battery (sounds like you do already), then pull (and replace) each fuse one by one until you see the power draw go...
The griding noise has nothing to do with the pads or discs/rotors. This is clear because none of our vehicles are grinding under manual braking.
It's the same noise that's made by the ABS system, because it's the same system used by both ABS and ACC to modulate brake pressure. The part making...
I just double checked and you're right! And what's even wierder is if you check the HTML version (not the PDF) it does mention it, but the number is completely different to earlier models. It talks about 400 watts peak, but only in Park. Very odd. Maybe they changed the inverter model...
We've charged iPads and laptops on the 110v.
We've also had gaming consoles (Nintendo Switch) plugged in there and then outputted to the reat seat entertainment screens/system, so the kids can play on road trips.
I've always been tempted to plug a smaller crockpot in so we have dinner ready...
It's odd that I've never noticed it before honestly. Probably had the music up too loud! I was worried it was a seized/locked up IWE.
Makes sense. It's just much softer than when ABS is intervening - likely because when ABS kicks in it's a critical event and being more forecful than the...
I noticed on a recent road trip that when the Adaptive Cruise Control is operating, and has to the slow the vehicle down to an almost dead stop, that there's a soft grinding sound, very similar to the sound you hear when ABS is operating. Doesn't happen any other time when braking manually...
After doing more research, the two products in the TSB are in fact Krytox GPL105 Oil (lube), and Krytox GPL205 Grease (grease).
Also, the TSB was updated from 19-2374 to 20-2093 to account for the newer model year.
The TSB mentions two different Krytox products - lube, and grease. You just mention the grease - did you get the lube too?
Edit: Wow, I'm struggling to find either product for sale up here. From what I can tell they've been replaced by Krytox GPL105 Oil, and GPL205 Grease...
If you have a video, then that's great. I personally wouldn't unplug the battery, but I know the reasons why you'd want to.
Just make sure you have a decent set of trim removal tools/spudgers, so you don't chew up your trim with a flathead screwdriver.
Actually, I was thinking about this and knew there was another noise I'd heard that better described the sound the seat fans make. And then I remembered...
https://youtu.be/S4AmLcBLZWY?si=V6US-oAWLlSc2O_7&t=53
Look for the Ford logo, or FoMoCo embossed in the plastic. My guess is the whole housing is after market. LED replacement bulbs for incandescent bulbs are usually bulb/cylindrical. Those look like a flat LED board.
GM has a recall right now for total engine failure, including the Yukon. So does Toyota. Both end up needing whole new engines.
Also, the 10 speed transmission was a joint venture between Ford and GM. The Yukon has the same hard parts as the Ford, but the unit is called the 10L80. There...
Go see my recent post in the Gen 4 forum. Had the same symptoms. Just got it back from Ford after the rebuild.
Yes, it's your CDF drum, but as you'll see in my post, over time it causes damage to much more in the transmission. Everything is consistent. Clunk/hesitant shifting 3-4-5, and 7-8...
So I just got it back, and it's shifting as smooth as silk.
For the transmission, the notes show no codes were found, but delays were noticeable between 3-4-5-6 and 7-8. When they pulled the transmission apart they found:
Sticking valves
Spun CDF hub sleeve
Damaged F clutch cylinder splines...
Maybe for Colorado too (not sure how cold it gets there), but especially up here in the frozen north. That engine is going from -35c (-31f) to running temperature, then back down to -35c again, for large chunks of the winter.
So, mine is in for a transmission rebuild as we speak, and the sericve advisor called to let me know the tech also found the valve cover was leaking, and they need an extra day to replace it (under warranty luckily).
Is the replacement cover part redesigned so it won't happen again, or am I...
I suspect the process of disassembling the mirror to replace the LED component would be so messy and destructive that it wouldn't go back together again properly after!
So I checked the manual for thed 2013 Expedition, and this is what it has to say. I'd recommend searching YouTube to find a video on how someone has done this themselves:
Interestingly, on the gen 4, they sell the LED component separately. I was very surprised to see you didn't need to replace the whole mirror assembly.
https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2020-ford-expedition--platinum--3-5l-v6-gas/body--outside-mirrors
You're in the wrong forum. This is the 4th Gen forum (2018-2024).
On a 2013 it's available as a separate part. See here - item number 5.
Edit: Now I'm not sure if this the lamp housing, or the bulb, or what. Is it LED in yours?
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