Yeah there's quite a few things that can be causing the failure. Some ideas in this thread:
https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/2006-eb-rear-hvac-inoperable-fuse-relay-resistor-good.55834/
I don't know the '19 Expedition, never even looked closely at one. I have however, worked on an insane number of sunroofs. In every case there is a drain hole in each corner, usually 1/8-3/16" diameter and often not easy to see without a pen style flashlight that you can lay in the channel...
Well crap, I really thought you were on to something with the solenoids. The PCS seemed very probable.
I have not rebuilt a 4R70W or 4R75E. I did a C6 years ago, but that's not much help. I have watched a few tear downs on the 4R7xx trans and it really doesn't look that difficult. I have...
The battery voltage seems okay to me. I would think you'd hear the belt slipping(squealing or chirping), but maybe it's slipping and not loud enough to hear it. If the belt can be moved that easily I would start there and it would fit with your intermittent symptoms. At this age your belt...
I think trans fluid should be changed far more often than recommended. Changing it all is not as easy as it used to be since the drain plug has been removed from torque converters. I changed it all at around 50k as I recall. Ever since I just drop the pan every 2 years which is almost half...
A good OBDII scanner will read the codes as will FORScan. FORScan is available very inexpensively, but does require that you purchase an ODBII adapter.
My past experience similar to this was related to a pressure issue on a GM trans. I found that selecting 1st gear also resolved the issue...
Those are not okay symptoms, well they wouldn't be okay with me. I wonder if you have a vacuum leak or fuel flow issue. With the OD enabled the rpm will drop and the amount of fuel consumed will as well so if there is a vacuum leak you'd have too much air and detonation could result. A vacuum...
Well as you suggested I think there are or may be multiple issues here. Most may very well be related to the cylinder 3 coil, p0353. Intermittent issues usually lead me to initially suspect an electrical issue.
Did you replace the coil on cylinder 3? If so did you use a Ford coil to...
I was thinking about this and realized I provided my answer for your fuel additive question, but dirty injectors is almost certainly not causing a knock.
There are several causes of engine knock. Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber, low oil level, low oil pressure, oil not capable of...
Do fuel system cleaners work, well to some extent some do. They certainly can help to clean fuel injectors and carburetors. That said I believe most do a better job when used to help prevent contamination than actually cleaning it up after symptoms develop.
I have only found 2 that seems to...
Might be the cam sensors failing, but as I have learned from the multitude of posts on this subject here it's usually time for a full timing job. The 5.4 3V has a tendency of the cam phasers failing and the consensus is to use only Ford cam phasers for replacement if they are needed.
Anyway, a...
I forgot to mention that you can test how much pressure it takes to fully latch the lock assembly with a screw driver or metal rod similar in size to the catch on the door frame. Just open the door and take the rod/screw driver and press it sideways into the lock assembly. You'll see lock roll...
So my doors are a bit hard to close because the alignment is off. This is caused, I think, by the body mounts failing and causing the center of the body to sag just a little bit in the center. The body mounts in question are near the B and C pillars. I can't find new mounts to replace them...
The factory 15amp relay can barely handle the power consumption when new. As our trucks age the wiring has more resistance, grounds don't make contact as well, the fuel pump motor draws more power as it wears. You'll need to look into those to isolate the issue. Or install a 20amp relay...
I'd say it is not washer fluid unless it's spraying since the washer line doesn't run over the front of the engine. Old coolant, the factory yellow stuff especially won't smell much like traditional green coolant. I'm thinking it's got to be a coolant leak over or next to the cylinder 1...
I don't know of any 2nd row floor mat/liners off hand. You might have to consider a universal trim to fit version. WeatherTech offers one
1-Piece Over the Hump Rear mat:
5/8" thick
56" wide by 16" long
Can be trimmed to 52" wide by 14" long
Any chance you have a cut/torn wire or connector separated under the seat? If the driver seat does nothing and the fuse is good and you have a data error sounds like something may have a poor or no connection.
I have no idea where or if there's any elbows in the hose. Might not be any elbows. I think the trim across the top of tailgate opening is so easy to remove I'd start there and look above the headliner from there. With your borescope you should be able to trace it to the C pillar at least.
S20Workstation4 answered the unhooked battery question well.
What could cause the parasitic draw, well lots of things. Anything electrical and pretty much any wire. There's multiple ways to isolate the draw, but since you have it with a mechanic no need to go into detail. A voltage drop test...
I don't think I have ever seen Hamfisted be wrong, but I do know that even if you have the option installed you will need a subscription for it to work.
To me it kinda sounds like the bendix(gear) may be hitting the flex plate. Which could be caused by the starter wearing out. Could also be a wiring issue though, corroded wire connections can cause low voltage to reach the motor and have a similar result.
I guess that's about the right price...
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