I also took off a Fuel Pressure Dampener/Regulator and saw that it was the ‘dampener’ with no nipple.
Which is odd, given the manual shows the ‘regulator’ with a nipple. At least now I know if I need this part in the future.
@whtbronco, thank you again for all your input. I was able to figure out what the problem was with the codes.
So I did have a vacuum problem after all, and it was nothing to do with the O2 sensors or Fuel Pulse Dampener. It was a vac line that went from the Vacuum Control Valve to the Intake...
@whtbronco thank you for the response for a potential solution. I have (2) more questions now as it relates to the information provided.
1. Where did you get the OBD code sheet? I have the workshop manuals, but I don’t have any documents explaining what the OBD codes are. So far my searches...
I have a 2004 EB 5.4 2WD with about 187K on the odometer. About 2 weeks ago (Dec. 18) I got a check engine light and when I ran the scan tool I got the codes P0172 and P0175. Generic codes stated that Banks 1 & 2 were running too rich. Ford Specific codes stated ‘Fuel System Too Rich...
@kep5niner, thank you for the information. Not something I plan anytime soon, but good to have the information for when it happens. Great job again on the build.
@kep5niner, fantastic work on what you were able to accomplish,:happy107:!
I would like to do something like this in the future as well where I can put on some better exhaust manifolds and other engine parts (metal timing chain guides, cast iron tensioners, etc.).
What did you use to connect...
Lower fuel efficiency in a large vehicle can have a variety of contributing factors. Some of things could be happening without a check engine light triggering because they aren’t bad enough yet. But here are things to take into consideration:
What are your driving habits like?
Do you...
182,000 on an ‘04 EB RWD, and still running. Bought with 80K already on it.
I’ve had to replace the brake booster, intake manifold (stupid cracked plastic), spark plugs and coil packs w/ manifold, serpentine belt, AC compressor (found it it was a bad purge valve afterwards), fuse box, fuel...
I had to replace the inlet hose behind the Heater Control Valve today. It was not a fun project, approximately 75 minutes total. I did use your tip to assist with the job. It didn’t take me 15 seconds unfortunately. I still had to manually push down and break the old tabs to get over the lip (I...
How did you go about performing the delete? I live in an extremely dry environment and have rarely ever had to use the rear wiper. So a delete may not be a bad idea. Especially since currently the shaft more or less free spins when activated and doesn’t wipe. It not working is not the reason for...
Have you started with checking the fuses? And by rear wiper not working what do you mean specifically? Does the motor run but the blade stay stationary? Does the motor not engage at all? Do the sprayers have a filled reservoir to pull from? Not enough info is currently available to assist beyond...
Have you had your alternator checked to make sure that it is operating correctly? If the alternator isn’t working properly it will not provide a current to offset all the power usage. Making your battery the sole supplier of power and drain it. As @Hamfisted said you could get a mount charger to...
@GAINMOB you mentioned a big3 upgrade. Do you recommend fusing the big3 before connecting to the positive post? I’ve read a lot of debate on this matter with no clear determination. People claim to have never fused with years of no issues and other say good luck when your vehicle dies.
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