Scan it for codes. Multiple issues with those transmissions. If it slipping it’s prob too late. Overhaul it. Put in a shift correction kit at the same time. With the updated torque converter control valve. Locks up much faster with less slipping with a load. Mpg won’t change tho. Lol.
Get the kits from https://www.freedomracing.com/
Some even come with the tools you need. And bolts gaskets ect. Don’t cheep out on the phasers. Get oem ones. If it has them. If it’s a 2 valve. Gears are Up to you.
Pull fuel rail and turn key on, don’t crank. See if the injectors are leaking. Could be time for plugs and coils too. I’ve had good luck with bravex ignition coils from Amazon. But oem are best.
Full Timing job and pull the oil pan and clean it out. But before you do that. Pull one of the cam bearings off and make sure it’s good. Also what oil filter do you use. I’ve had more ecoguard filters clog up in 2-3 k miles. They are junk. Stick with OEM, Mann or Hengst. My 05 I run with...
Sounds like a phaser My 05 did that. It will eventually fail and be catastrophic. They prob used cheep one in the rebuild. Pull the valve cover and put a wrench on the cam. See if you can turn it with out the gear turning. Request oem ones. More money but don’t fail. Make sure the chain...
Do NOT use Moog they have a lifetime replacement warranty but you will spend a lifetime replacing them. I gave up on any Moog parts 15 years ago. I use WJB or SCHAEFFLER for wheel bearings from Rockauto. I’ve had 0 issues with them.
I put 5-30 full synthetic in my 05. It burns some so it helps in that. Started doing it at 140k. Now has 193k. Every 5k miles I change it. Add a quart about every 800-1000 miles.
Just an fyi freedom racing has complete kits for these cars. Oem or good aftermarket stuff. With the tools included. I know it’s late now. Just saw the post date. But here it is. https://www.freedomracing.com/ford-parts.html
Valve body separation plate is know to crack on those and do funky things. Bring it to a shop for fixing. Depending on mileage a full rebuild might be in order to update whole transmission. Do it before you have an extra neutral.
I’ve got a 2010 5.4. Did timing chains at 84k miles due to chain tensioners going out. Now has 140. Trouble free. Still has original phasers. Gonna upgrade to bilstein shocks as originals are spent. Don’t rule out the 5.4. Gets 14 around town and 18-19 highway.
Hey all. My wife’s 2010 expo the 4x4 seems to be klunking slipping it goes into low range fine but going around corners it doesn’t bind up. Yes I’m on dirt not pavement I was in mud the other day and had a tough time with just the rear wheels spinning. And this noise. Did a transfer case...
I have a 2010 expo and a 05 expo. The 10 has 3.31 gears and the 05 has 3.73 with LSD. Will the rear end bolt up?? And the front end. Mother Nature is taking the frame back on the 05. And the 05 way better in the snow and mud.
Being it say you need 5-30. That is what you use. Knocking at idle could be a number of things. If your oil pressure is low. It takes really low oil pressure to knock. If the oil pressure light isn’t on. With out putting a pressure gauge on it. You won’t know. As I think it is a 5psi pressure...
What’s everyone getting for mileage on their v-6 expos. My wife has a 2010 5.4 and is getting 14.5 average. Just wondering if it’s worth getting the v6 or not. Trucks paid off so if I upgrade I would have a payment. Thanks!!!
Who ever uses a Fram filter should be shot on sight. The last two I looked at. Had rust on the inside. Brand new. No thanks. Henghts oil filter or Mann for me. Or factory. And change the filter every oil change. At 5k miles. Don’t be lazy.
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