I would not get a reman except from Ford to make sure it has the new updated CDF drum and anodized garbage can (forgot the technical name haha). These parts introduced in 2023-2024.
Another option is to rebuild with the new parts. There is a shop in Alabama called Flying Wrenches which is...
Does it also rattle when idling? Or only at a start up?
if I were you, I would drive the 3 hrs and take it to Brian, BSG Automotive. People ship their cars from Florida for him to do the work. He has a popular YouTube channel that specializes in Ford.
Hmm, to be honest… if you plan to keep the vehicle for many years, I would do rear differential, transfer case, and transmission fluids.
The first two are super easy to DIY and the fluid cost should not exceed $100 if you buy MOTORCRAFT fluid. I would stick with OEM fluids.
For transmission...
You may want to do the cam phasers while the engine is on the stand, but I expect this will add $2k to the cost. They still have to spend a day at least to change them.
I have not seen cases showing ford helping after warranty. Ridiculous!
Long crank times can help at the beginning, after some time it will rattle while cranking. The deterioration is pretty fast.
Up to this point I think that there is no hard part failure (since the transmission works normally afterwards). My understanding is that this is due to hydraulic leak(s) within the valve body. Not enough pressure to engage a certain clutch.
You may be able to get away with valve body...
What was replaced in the driveline service??
Just ask the dealer to put a used one from LKQ. Will cost $200-400 and there is plenty of them all over eBay and other used parts websites.
Good that you found the problem!
Regarding the misfire, coil failure is not very common on these. But generally spark plugs would need replacement well before 100k miles. Start by replacing the plugs or at least make sure to put new plugs with the new coils.
Question:
- what is the brand of the rebuilt transmission?
- how is the engine temperature? If the cooling fans are running high, then I guess the engine is at high temperature too.
If the 150 miles were highway miles with no tight corners then it is ok. Straight line or slight highway curves will not do damage. The fact it grabbed at the gas station means clutches are still working properly.
Now, if changing the fluid will make you feel better, it is a very easy job. No...
There was a case of overheating couple of years ago and turned out to be bad radiator.
Other things to check first are the grille shutters (stuck closed) or faulty radiator fan.
There are some potential issues:
- several members here reported water pump failures.
- some hoses have tendency to leak. The crimps at the plastic connectors are made of very thin aluminum that splits.
Inspect carefully around the engine bay for crystallized reddish coolant residue.
Yup. A fully loaded Tahoe at 75mph was basically at its limit for confident driving. The expedition can go above 100 without me noticing. I drove them back to back and was glad to have the expedition.
I would say however, that the Tahoe is tuned better for city bumpy roads with more squishy...
I am guessing from the flexible joint (constant velocity joint?) at the rear end of the drive shaft. They are packed with grease and it tends to squeeze out when tightened to the differential flange.
If it is old grease then no problem, I would only be concerned if it keeps on squeezing out.
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