2018 Expy Mainenance and Repair

[Paddler]

I had my Expy in to the dealer yesterday for an oil change, $50 + "shop supplies" and tax, which worked out to $60. They used to sell a package of three for $90 + tax, so the price has almost doubled.

But, they also found a forward pinion seal leak, and recommended all the 60K maintenance, including cooling system flush ($210), brake fluid flush ($233), transmission service ($427), pinion seal replacement ($452), front and rear differential fluid replacement ($367), transfer case fluid replacement ($165), plus tax and $60 shop supplies. The total is about $2300.

I've looked at a few Youtube videos on some of these procedures, and only the transmission service and pinion seal replacement look involved. Of note, I've never seen a drop on fluid on my driveway from the seal leak.

Can anybody recommend any step-by-step instructions or videos on these procedures? Regarding the pinion seal, how tough is that to do at home? They tell me I need a special torque wrench, as I already have the typical one. I'll also need a fluid extractor, but have all the usual hand tools, air compressor, etc.

Oh, and it also appears I have a washer fluid leak, but the tech couldn't pinpoint the source.

 

[BigOleFordFan]

I had my Expy in to the dealer yesterday for an oil change, $50 + "shop supplies" and tax, which worked out to $60. They used to sell a package of three for $90 + tax, so the price has almost doubled.

But, they also found a forward pinion seal leak, and recommended all the 60K maintenance, including cooling system flush ($210), brake fluid flush ($233), transmission service ($427), pinion seal replacement ($452), front and rear differential fluid replacement ($367), transfer case fluid replacement ($165), plus tax and $60 shop supplies. The total is about $2300.

I've looked at a few Youtube videos on some of these procedures, and only the transmission service and pinion seal replacement look involved. Of note, I've never seen a drop on fluid on my driveway from the seal leak.

Can anybody recommend any step-by-step instructions or videos on these procedures? Regarding the pinion seal, how tough is that to do at home? They tell me I need a special torque wrench, as I already have the typical one. I'll also need a fluid extractor, but have all the usual hand tools, air compressor, etc.

Oh, and it also appears I have a washer fluid leak, but the tech couldn't pinpoint the source.

Those prices add a new meaning to the word "stealership"

First, I would check your owners manual to find the recommended intervals for all the fluids, and pay attention to the mileage numbers. Some of them can be adjusted a little, depending on your driving habits, mileage, and overall condition of your vehicle....

If you look around at some smaller shops, I'm fairly certain you could find someone that could do this work for a lot less, however, I would stay about 613,758K miles away from any of the "Quick-change" places, as they are also overpriced and have been known to use the lowest quality fluids & parts, many of which do not meet the mfgr's specs...as well as not having the proper training on & knowledge of the many different vehicles they work on..

I would look for a transmission specialty shop for the transmission, differential & transfer case services, and make sure they remove (suck out) ALL of the existing fluids, not just what runs out when they remove/open the pans/cases, as well as replacing the transmission filter too !

Sorry I don't have any videos to share, but I'm sure there are alot on the tooby station

 

[SyndicateZ]

I actually think all those prices are cheap. Also- non of those items are on the 60,000 maintenence schedule to actually change out

I pay $139 JUST FOR A OIL CHANGE at my dealer.... I get full synthetic tho

 

[Hellwig]

I actually think all those prices are cheap. Also- non of those items are on the 60,000 maintenence schedule to actually change out

I pay $139 JUST FOR A OIL CHANGE at my dealer.... I get full synthetic tho

Same here. We both live in high living cost areas.

 

[BigOleFordFan]

I pay $139 JUST FOR A OIL CHANGE at my dealer.... I get full synthetic tho

Same here. We both live in high living cost areas.

Well, a full synth oil chg around my area (SW PA) usually runs about $65-70 give or take, so yea, ya'll are in the high-cost areas for sure

 

[SyndicateZ]

Well, a full synth oil chg around my area (SW PA) usually runs about $65-70 give or take, so yea, ya'll are in the high-cost areas for sure

Im up in ******** expensive North Eastern Massachusetts

 

[2018ExpyPlatinum]

I just rolled 65K but was in for service a month ago or so at 63K. Per the book, which I check prior to see what's due, nothing really big is due until 100K or more. Not saying it would hurt to do it early, but sleeping dogs lie. I'd let all the maintenance stuff go and get a second opinion on the pinion seal

 

[Fizzy]

Pinion seal leak is fairly common. Had mine replaced under warranty last year.

If I remember correctly - the parts came up to about $5. And the labour was hundreds of dollars.

 

[Paddler]

Well, the owners manual recommends the transmission, transfer case and differential services be done at 150,000 miles. The coolant should be changed at 6 years or 100,000, then every 3 years or 5,000 miles, but I think they mean 50,000 miles. There is no recommendation for brake flush or 4 wheel drive alignment, which the dealer also recommended for $100.

So, all in all the dealer recommended over $1500 worth of unnecessary procedures. Plus $120 to replace the engine and cabin filters, which I can do for less than $30. Nice work if you can get it.

The pinion seal is about $25. If I can do it myself I'll save over $500.

 

[Soliyou]

Well, the owners manual recommends the transmission, transfer case and differential services be done at 150,000 miles. The coolant should be changed at 6 years or 100,000, then every 3 years or 5,000 miles, but I think they mean 50,000 miles. There is no recommendation for brake flush or 4 wheel drive alignment, which the dealer also recommended for $100.

So, all in all the dealer recommended over $1500 worth of unnecessary procedures. Plus $120 to replace the engine and cabin filters, which I can do for less than $30. Nice work if you can get it.

The pinion seal is about $25. If I can do it myself I'll save over $500.

Hmm, to be honest… if you plan to keep the vehicle for many years, I would do rear differential, transfer case, and transmission fluids.

The first two are super easy to DIY and the fluid cost should not exceed $100 if you buy MOTORCRAFT fluid. I would stick with OEM fluids.

For transmission fluid, I just extract the fluid through the dipstick hole with a fluid extractor, measure it, and add the same amount back in.

The front pinion seal can deteriorate fast and it is difficult to check the fluid. If you decide to leave it alone, just keep an eye on it and make sure to add fluid when it is wet.

Coolant… I would leave it alone until you have to change the thermostat, or the cam phasers, or the leaky heater hoses.

 

[Paddler]

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. Especially on the trans. Why OEM fluids rather than, say Mobil 1?

Frankly, the pinion seal looks pretty simple. Not sure why it's leaking as I rarely use all-wheel drive.

 

[Paddler]

I watched this video:

Ford 10R80 Transmission Complete Fluid & Filter Service (Tips and Tricks)

In this video I show the steps and procedures necessary to complete a service on a Ford 10R80 transmission. ford recomends you service this transmission ever...

www.youtube.com

He uses an extractor but didn't provide a link to it. Anybody have suggestions about the best pneumatic fluid extractor?

Also, he says you need 6 quarts of fluid, but the owners manual says the trans holds 13 quarts. Why?

 

[Fizzy]

Considering the issues with the 10R80 transmission, I would not be touching it myself with a 10ft pole. The last thing I want is Ford to deny a warranty claim because of a dispute on maintenance, and end up $5000 out of pocket, because I wanted to save $400.

 

[ccssid]

I watched this video:

Ford 10R80 Transmission Complete Fluid & Filter Service (Tips and Tricks)

In this video I show the steps and procedures necessary to complete a service on a Ford 10R80 transmission. ford recomends you service this transmission ever...

www.youtube.com

He uses an extractor but didn't provide a link to it. Anybody have suggestions about the best pneumatic fluid extractor?

Also, he says you need 6 quarts of fluid, but the owners manual says the trans holds 13 quarts. Why?

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=fluid+pu...3572303 &tag=hydsma-20&ref=pd_sl_5i3lfrn7tl_b

Yes, the 10R80 transmission fluid is designed to remain within the torque converter, as it's a crucial component for transferring power from the engine to the transmission by utilizing the fluid inside the converter to create torque; essentially, the torque converter is always filled with transmission fluid while the vehicle is running.

Key points about the 10R80 and torque converter fluid:

• Fluid function:
  The fluid inside the torque converter acts as a hydraulic medium, allowing the impeller (driven by the engine) to transfer power to the turbine (connected to the transmission).
  
  
• No need to drain:
  Unlike some other systems, you don't need to manually drain the fluid from the torque converter as it naturally stays within the converter due to its design.
  
  
• Importance of proper fluid level:
  Maintaining the correct transmission fluid level is vital to ensure the torque converter functions optimally.
  

In other words, a drain and fill does not address fluid in the torque converter....hence the 6-7 qts....not 13

 

[Ugh_J]

I'm also pretty sure every mechanic I've watched talking about 10R80 fluid changes explicitly mentions not going by the Ford 150k mile schedule. Seems like most of them recommend 60k first change, then every ~30k after that. But don't trust me - go look it up.

 

[ccssid]

Considering the issues with the 10R80 transmission, I would not be touching it myself with a 10ft pole. The last thing I want is Ford to deny a warranty claim because of a dispute on maintenance, and end up $5000 out of pocket, because I wanted to save $400.

Spoke with Ford customer care, three days ago ( Note...I am paraphrasing and this is how I interpreted the conversation). Question #1: can I use full synthetic Valvoline motor oil so long as it meets spec... answer was yes. Question #2: can I install aftermarket PPE transmission pan with it not effecting my warranty ? Answer: MAYBE, ( but not necessarily) as it is not approved in the same respect that fluids are approved in that the fluids do indeed meet spec. So, no PPE pan for this guy

 

[Fizzy]

Spoke with Ford customer care, three days ago ( Note...I am paraphrasing and this is how I interpreted the conversation). Question #1: can I use full synthetic Valvoline motor oil so long as it meets spec... answer was yes. Question #2: can I install aftermarket PPE transmission pan with it not effecting my warranty ? Answer: MAYBE, ( but not necessarily) as it is not approved in the same respect that fluids are approved in that the fluids do indeed meet spec. So, no PPE pan for this guy

Even then (on the fluids) - with Ford hemorrhaging money on recalls and warranty claims, they'll look for even the slightest excuse to deny a claim. And if you contest it, you might end up winning, but you've been without a vehicle for months in the meantime. The guy in the service shop has zero sway in whether Ford corporate will approve or deny your claim. And unless you have it in writing, they won't care one bit what some franchise employee said.

I'd still opt to have Ford do the service, and for them to use their Motocraft factory fluids.

But then that's me - I prefer to hedge my risk, even if it means spending a little now to save potentially a lot later.

 

[ccssid]

just picked up my 2021 from indy mechanic. I had a pan drop and new filter and fluid exchange. My local dealer only would do a trans flush. No thank you.

He took out 5.5 qts, and, put back nearly 7.5 qts. 37,800 miles. Filter had quite a bit of metal flakes visible in the filter pickup location and the magnet also was loaded with metal. Fluid was rather muddy. Going back in a couple of weeks and have him extract (not pulling pan this time) what he can (should be about 5 qts) and replace the 5 qts. Then will do again in another couple of weeks. Mechanic also changed front diff fluid. He said this fluid looked like silvery slurry.

 

[Paddler]

So, does the fluid in the torque converter mix with that in the trans? I called a shop yesterday and they said the "connect to the trans lines" and completely flush the trans, pushing 14 quarts through it. They do not drop the pan nor change the filter. All for the low low price of $450.

If the fluid from the torque converter mixes with that of the trans one could just evacuate 6.5 quarts, replace it, then drive the car for a awhile and repeat. By the third time you'd reduce contaminants by ~88%.

 

[Paddler]

I crawled under my Expy yesyerday. The dealer said I have a leak from my front pinion seal, and they're right. But with the shield off I noticed a leak from the passenger side of the differential, too. I've not been able to find a video on that repair. I topped up the fluid with just few squirts of Valvoline 75W90 Full Synthetic. I'm not sure how full is full, I've read 3mm below the fill hole. When I filled it I had jacked up the passenger side of the car, which would lead to overfilling, so I jacked up the car from the other side instead and let some fluid drain out. Very unscientific, I realize, but it's not clear to me that anybody could accurately measure how much below the fill hole the fluid is.

Given that I hadn't lost much fluid with 82K miles on it, I'm leaning against replacing the seals at this time. I'll check it again at 100K, maybe switch out the fluid then. I don't really care if it has a slow leak, I understand lots of them do that. So long as it's nearly full no damage will occur, and I rarely use AWD anyway.

On a related note I had/have a washer fluid leak, which looked to be from the grommet. I replaced it yesterday and haven't seen a leak. If it does leak again I'll just replace the pump. The dealer wants $75 for it, but aftermarket pumps are available for lots less. Simple repair, really, it takes longer to remove the wheel and the front half of the liner than to replace the pump.