Had to remove my driver side turbo to repair a coolant line leak. It wasn’t a horrible experience believe it, or not.
Used a lift when working on my vehicle… was able to adjust height to suit my specific needs. Made it simpler.
Be prepared to tackle corroded hardware at the turbo, and downpipe...
I definitely know how difficult it could potentially be to remove these guys. Fortunately, I just happened to have a set of SPD downpipes to install when my O2 sensor set of the CEL.
Of course I installed the new sensors on the new downpipes before installing. Was pretty easy… to include the...
Ok… so, the idea of the weep-hole was to be used as a drain for oil accumulation. That system is designed to be a closed-system. So, excess air is being sucked in (which the vehicle computer can compensate for; up to a point before performance starts to fall off a bit), water, and dirt!!! Not...
At approximately 192k mile I got the timing chain replaced, valves walnut blasted, front and rear differential’s serviced, brake fluid flushed, and transmission serviced.
Also, I’ve been lucky with buying O-rings from plumbing departments like Lowe’s and/ or Home Depot. They have variety packs that more than likely will have your size. Remember, the size you want will actually be slightly smaller in diameter/ circumference. They stretch during use; hot and cold...
Judging from your pic it does look like it’s coming from the oil cooler line at the top. I’ve done this job before, and it’s not that bad.
Get new O-ring, bolts, and gaskets from dealer. A few days before actual repair start spraying all the fasteners. This can help get through some of the...
I'm guessing the people with the wallet have no idea what's needed by the experts!!!
Also, did some research for you on the wiring schematics... note available using my resource at this particular time. A little too new for my go to place. I've got access to every make, and model. Even some...
So, if my memory serves me correctly my Expedition had 236k miles when I traded it.
No issues from the turbos… except the coolant line leak on the driver side. Pulled the turbo, and replaced the snap-ring fitting, and O-ring.
My biggest issue was oil blow-by. Though my Full Race catch can was...
I’d get the part from Ford. It will cost more, but you won’t have to worry about quality, and fitment.
Have purchased several electrical items from AutoZone only to have the harness connector not properly line up with the vehicle connector.
Replaced with MotorCraft parts, and they snapped...
I’ve used Griot’s and Chemical Guy’s at one point, or another.
Also, made it a point not to slide off the edge of the driver seat when getting out.
STILL, there were wear marks, and slight cracking. Had a lot of seat time, so I could understand the seat cover being slightly worn. But, I didn’t...
Ok, so using your pic, went to Google Images and added the pic. Found several people mentioned they had that pop up during some type of parking sensor issue.
Either, bumper was replaced and connector wasn’t reinstalled. Someone else experienced damage to the sensor. Another had a frayed wire...
Does sound like it’s a vacuum issue that’s partially engaging your 4wd. Using carb cleaner, spray around the engine bay and 4wd actuators to see if idle changes. If so, there’s your leak.
FYI… military and prior military have access to the entire Chilton’s library via Military OneSource for free. There’s maintenance information as well as wiring diagrams.
Great find!!! Thanks for sharing. As a retired Army veteran I’ve got access to the complete Chilton auto manual database for free. Problem is they make it somewhat difficult to access.
Don’t get me wrong… can get into it if necessary, but they sometimes redirect the links. That’s ok I guess… it...
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