2012 - Safe to change plugs myself without breaking any plugs

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Triplet Dad

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I have a 2007 and so far I have broken 3 out of 3. I used two tanks with Sea Foam and also did the fluid to break the carbon and loosened a little at a time. I would get the Lisle tool and have it handy because you are going to break some. Just make sure to have an air compressor with a long extension and a magnet on a stick to get the bits of metal and ceramic out of the hole after you extract the broken piece.
 

1955moose

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If you have a 2012 expedition you don't have the two piece plugs. 2009 and up have a one piece plug. Just clean debris with an air hose and blow tip, before removing plugs. Just a suggestion, but you might want to buy new boots that attach to the plugs. Also a little dielectric grease where boots attach to plugs isn't a bad idea. Theirs a little argument on this last one, but I like a thin amount of anti seize on threads. Keeps the plug from galling in the head, and sticking. Use a torque wrench if possible, observe torque specs for your vehicle.


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1955moose

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I went online, the site showed the years that had the two piece plugs. If the site is right, and I believe it is, look up agco automotive. It described the two piece plug. It has a chart at the end of it that shows 2008 was the last year Fordinstalled these on expeditions and Lincoln Navigator. I would still use the advice of our forum members, to use a compressor blow tip, and remove all debris after pulling coil on plugs, replace coil boots, to prevent a misfire. A little dielectric grease where boots attach to plug, a thin amt of antisieze to threads. Use a torque wrench, unless your hands are sensitive to torque. And just my personal feeling, buy Ford plugs. Overall they seem to work better. Anyhoo, that's what I read.


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1955moose

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The gap for sp509 motorcraft is .044. They should be pre gapped as always, but plugs do get dropped, so always double check them.


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USMCBuckWild

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I did the plugs on my 2012 on Saturday.

After reading this thread and several varying points of view I decided to test it for myself.

Test vehicle: 2012 El Limited, 85 k miles, factory plugs from when truck was assembled.

I ran the truck for a couple minutes so it wouldn't be "cold soaked", basically long enough to turn the truck around in the driveway and nose into the garage. (Out of the sun and closer to the beer fridge) I used the compressor to blow debris out, removed the coil and gave a quick shot of PB Blaster. First plug that came out was VERY difficult. Hard enough I was scared that I had galled the threads. Plug came out clean though.

So I started the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes. Went in and did the same process for the second plug on drivers side. Plug came out with much less effort. Just to qwell my own curiosity i used an old school flex torque wrench to verify how much effort was required to remove the plugs. Inital breaking torque was 64 ft/lbs. this was AFTER the engine was heated and the applied effort was much lower than the mildly warmed engine.

I finished all plugs on drivers side, then ran the truck again for 15 minutes. Passenger bank of plugs came out very easily. Breaking torque was 56 ft/lbs on 3 of the 4 plugs (couldn't reach the rear plug with the torque wrench)

Just my observations on my personal experience. Your mileage my vary.
 

1955moose

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Maybe that dealer mechanic that said getting the engine warm, ain't such a bad idea! Now you know why I like putting a small amount of anti- seize on spark plug threads.i also use it on Exaust items, if you've ever broken a stud or bolt on Exaust, you know why I use it. When you mix steel threads, with aluminum threads, add heat, and you've got a recipe for sticky or galled threads. Were they one piece plugs? None broke, of course they were. Thanks buck wild, that will help the other member that was worried about breaking Spark plugs.


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