2014 Expedition Limited rusted knuckles

[Expensedition]

When I bought my new 2014 Ford Expedition, I did the same thing that I always do: I crawl under it and look at everything that is typically out of sight and not on most peoples minds. During that investigation of my new investment I noticed many (All cast parts) were not painted. I asked the dealer about this and they said that was normal. This truck was ordered special by me and just landed at the dealer in Rhode Island from the Kentucky plant. The light scale on everything that was cast, bothered me as I knew from all of the previous Broncos and Expeditions that I owned these surfaces are going to rust fast. So, I planned on painting these parts but before you know it, years have passed and the rust was already flaking. I let it go some more until the day came to replace a frozen brake caliper.

Changing the brake calipers to an upgrade led me to get a set of PowerStop™, red powder coated calipers and drilled rotors. As I was installing these I became disgusted with the condition of the knuckles and then just about everything else attached that began to rust (See fig. 1). After installing the new calipers and rotors I began to assess what it might cost to upgrade the most important part of the truck, the part that steers and stops the vehicle (See fig.2).

I will post more in the days ahead.

V/r

SM

 

[JamaicaJoe]

I am curious as well. I have a 2013 Florida car and those parts are way more rusty than my 2001. I wonder if dry ice blasting would be the way to remove surface rust without damaging adjacent components. Certainly a good rust converting primer might slow down the rust.

 

[Expensedition]

Hi Joe,

Certainly, yes I agree, a good rust converting primer would slow down the rust. The first line of defense is the coating (paint).

There are many things that you can do to slow the rust and corrosion but first you have to get the upper layer if not all of the rust removed. On areas where there is residual light scale you can use a rust converter like Oshpo™ which converts light scale into a phosphate layer that can be painted. I will cover that in the next post.

In this entry I have the heavily rusted cast knuckle that was not painted from the factory. As I was performing scheduled maintenance on the front end, I became disgusted with the rotting cast parts. So my choice was to replace them with new. When the new knuckles came they too were unpainted and already showing a light scale of rust. From there I sand blasted the OEM knuckles and had them powder coated black. Powder coat is expensive and I don't recommend that for everyone since there are many much simpler coatings that can be applied and you would get near the same protection. When all was done the powder coated knuckles were very clean and held up extremely well.

Since I was going in to the front end I went all out and replaced just about everything. The wheel bearings are a critical item so I used what I felt was the best bearing (SKF) considering the Swedish mentality for quality control and metals they specify. SKF makes great bearings but the Timken bearings that Ford uses are nearly as good, don't settle for anything less. Just about all of the parts used in this project that did not have to be OEM were a higher grade aftermarket. All fasteners are OEM and were expensive when you add it up. My thought is always "Do it right and do it once" and to validate that I never had an issue after this project was complete.

Throughout this project and the ownership of this vehicle I still cant understand how Ford could let such an expensive vehicle leave the factory without painting these parts. FORD EXECUTIVES: ... ARE YOU LISTENING?

Joe, there is more to come but I have to get moving this morning and make the money.

V/r

SM

 

[Expensedition]

Rust happens, so I did my best to find it and slow it down.

With all of the suspension parts removed it was easier to get to all of the rusted areas.

Rust scale was removed with a power rotary wire brush and the surface then treated with Ospho™ rust converter, and then coated with black Rustoleum™. There is a lot of talk about other paints and epoxies but overall a good enamel on the frame is the most practical. When all of the work is done there will be a coat of FluidFilm™ on the entire assembly.

More to come.

V/r

SM