250K

[RonB1964]

My 2000 Expedition just passed 250K miles the other day. Still running great.

At 200K I performed the following maintenance:

• New radiator, hoses, water pump, coolant
• New plugs, COPS
• Replaced intake due to crack
• Changed front and rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid, transmission fluid/filters, p/s fluid
• Replaced AC compressor, dryer and condenser
• Added K&N filter
• 4 new shocks
• New Michelin LTX tires about 10K ago. 265/75R16

I bought this rig used with 100K on it. It was a Oregon State Police rig and had some issues that I have since resolved.

• Cruise and horn didn't work. Root cause: cruise control module failed
• Parking brake didn't work: Root cause: driver side cable was cut, replaced cable
• Massive leaks in the roof: Root cause: was missing screws for roof rack
• Beverage tray didn't pop out: Root cause/fix: spring fell off, reattached with sheet metal screw
• Missing tow hooks: Fix: got another set from wrecking yard
• Hi beams would pop on after a turn signal activated: Fix: replaced turn signal assy
• Left mirror would not move: Fix: cleaned switch

Issues still present: (will fix when I have time)

• Rear wiper quit working. Suspect loose wire in the column due to signal lever change.
• Sometimes lags going into forward gear after being in reverse. Suspect either loose bolt on the valve body, or worn/sticking valve. Otherwise it shifts great.
• Steering a little loose. Pitman arm worn, need to replace it
• Odometer fades out. Need to reflow the solder in the instrument panel
• Growling noise when transfer case fuse is installed. Suspect vacuum leak in hubs.
• Paint faded. It used to have white doors and top. State put on a crappy paint job and it shows... I may leave the patina for my own amusement.

My plan is to run it to 300K and post another update. See you in a year or two. (I have a crazy commute)

Ron

 

[RonB1964]

also put in a fuel pump about 140K

 

[Vancouver Bob]

Glad to hear she's still going strong! I've got about 220,000 on mine and have no complaints. I did just start getting a check engine light that would come and go. Was throwing a P1406 code which I hear is pointing to the DPFE sensor so I've got a new sensor and hoses to put on.

 

[Russell Lewis]

My 2000 Expedition just passed 250K miles the other day. Still running great.

At 200K I performed the following maintenance:

• New radiator, hoses, water pump, coolant
• New plugs, COPS
• Replaced intake due to crack
• Changed front and rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid, transmission fluid/filters, p/s fluid
• Replaced AC compressor, dryer and condenser
• Added K&N filter
• 4 new shocks
• New Michelin LTX tires about 10K ago. 265/75R16

I bought this rig used with 100K on it. It was a Oregon State Police rig and had some issues that I have since resolved.

• Cruise and horn didn't work. Root cause: cruise control module failed
• Parking brake didn't work: Root cause: driver side cable was cut, replaced cable
• Massive leaks in the roof: Root cause: was missing screws for roof rack
• Beverage tray didn't pop out: Root cause/fix: spring fell off, reattached with sheet metal screw
• Missing tow hooks: Fix: got another set from wrecking yard
• Hi beams would pop on after a turn signal activated: Fix: replaced turn signal assy
• Left mirror would not move: Fix: cleaned switch

Issues still present: (will fix when I have time)

• Rear wiper quit working. Suspect loose wire in the column due to signal lever change.
• Sometimes lags going into forward gear after being in reverse. Suspect either loose bolt on the valve body, or worn/sticking valve. Otherwise it shifts great.
• Steering a little loose. Pitman arm worn, need to replace it
• Odometer fades out. Need to reflow the solder in the instrument panel
• Growling noise when transfer case fuse is installed. Suspect vacuum leak in hubs.
• Paint faded. It used to have white doors and top. State put on a crappy paint job and it shows... I may leave the patina for my own amusement.

My plan is to run it to 300K and post another update. See you in a year or two. (I have a crazy commute)

Ron

View attachment 22810

For the trans put one of these fixes a lot of weak points of the 4r100. Cheap and easy less then 1/2 day.

Superior E4OD-4R100 Shift Correction With Boost Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYG7EZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GjepAbFVRGRHH

 

[ExplorerTom]

For the growling thing- cut the Brown Wire at the transfer case. You'll loose the A4WD, but 4hi and 4lo will still work as normal.

My 2000 sits at 224k right now. Still runs great.

 

[RonB1964]

Instead of cutting a wire, I removed the transfer case clutch fuse. I install it only when I expect I need 4WD, like for beach runs or when it snows.

 

[ExplorerTom]

That's one way. But then you're engaged all the time. When you cut the wire, you use the 4wd selector switch like normal and not have to stop, pop the hood, put the fuse in, close the hood and get back in. While you're at it, you should add some locking hubs to continue on with your pre-1990 theme you've got going.

 

[RonB1964]

That's awesome Tom. Lol. Manual locking hubs...

 

[Big pappy]

Nice to hear. My 2001 has 170k and I off-road with it on a weekend and drive it to work the next day. As I start to off-road more I have been instructed to get lockers? Rockers? Would appreciate a tip here

 

[Gumbyalso]

I have almost 295K on my 2000 4WD EB that I've had since new. I've done most the maintenance myself. Mileage is not much different from when it was new but it now burns about 20 oz of oil per 1000 miles. The oil burn and some rust are my only current complaints and I don't plan on doing anything other than add oil. From your list of what you did at 200K -

• My radiator and water pump are original. I changed the hoses at 10 years and the coolant per the service sched. Look for rust on your radiator brackets and treat that.
• The COPS are original. Plugs are changed every 100K. I also change the drive belt every 100K.
• I had Ford replace the intake manifold for a crack at 220K. I chased that vacuum leak for about 6 months before I gave up. That's the only engine work I've ever had done.
• I change all fluids & filters per schedule + p/s fluid. I change the transmission fluid and screen every 30K. Other than that, the tranny has never been touched.
• AC components and freon are original. I checked the pressure a couple years ago and it was still right on.
• Added K&N filter not too long after I bought it
• Replaced shocks at about 100K. They are still going strong. Check your anti sway bar links. I've replaced those once.
• I've run through quite a few sets of Michelins. The last version of the LTX was lousy for mileage. The Defender series are better.
• Fuel pump is original. I also change the fuel filter every 30K.
• Reflowed the solder on the odometer since it was fading
• Did the same thing with the beverage tray

I won't go through the entire list of things I've replaced, but the only things that I don't consider wear items were the intake manifold and the electronic module of the anti-skid controller (which I sent off for repair and has been working great for over six years). The rest have been wear items - like relays, tie rod ends, ball joints, anti sway bar links, rear wiper motors (five times), alternators (three times), wheel hubs, brakes, etc. I have replaced the rear wiper motor five times because the rebuilts don't last.

I hope to hit 300K sometime in 2018. This 2000 Expedition has been the most reliable and one of the better riding and driving vehicles I have owned so far (and owned ten others before it including a '58 Custom 300, a '63 Galaxie 500, a Datsun pickup, a Mitsubushi Minica (when I lived in Japan), a Dodge D-100, two '79 Corvettes, an '87 Bronco II, a '72 Silver Shadow, and a '95 Explorer) and wouldn't be surprised if it's the best one I ever own (though my wife's 2011 Expedition shows promise at 135K). I would actually consider buying another 2000 if I could find a clean one with low enough mileage.

Merry Chrismas