The 2022 models have a 4H option, was not available in previous year Gen4's.
Drive modes as others suggest is the best option for 95% of drivers.
Along with good tires.
4H / 4A / 2H
- Thread starter wannabeMtb
- Start date
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The 2022 models have a 4H option, was not available in previous year Gen4's.
Drive modes as others suggest is the best option for 95% of drivers.
Along with good tires.
zak99b5
Full Access Members
I noticed that on my 2020, if I had it in snow mode on the previous drive, on next start it's back to normal (as expected)--but it's still in 4A. I manually have to select 2H to revert back.
Has anybody played around with running Sport Mode and keeping the Power Distribution display up? I've done this, and miles later, on dry roads, driving lightly, my display shows power still going to the front wheels (4A enabled by Sport Mode). Yet I've never experienced any clunking, so I do believe the TOD must be working.
2020-MAX-Limited
Full Access Members
There's another thread that reports the same thing--Sport Mode drives all 4 wheels. Curious if the 4A light switches ON when Sport Mode is selected? I would assume so.
2020-MAX-Limited
Full Access Members
I concur. I saw the same thing. 4A stays lit, but Drive Mode is back to Normal. Have to manually rotate the dial to get back to Grass/Gravel/Snow mode. Of course, then I always rotate the knob in the wrong direction and have to correct back the other way.
Confirming that 4A stays on when you switch back to Normal - you need to select 2A manually. The Power Distribution visual display is what seemed odd to me. I don't have a pic to post currently, but it gives a visual as if you were looking down on the vehicle, and all 4 wheels are displayed as stacked bar graphs. The bars grow taller as you apply more acceleration. My surprise is that the display shows power to all 4 wheels when it shouldn't need to.
When in 4A, the front hubs engage, and transfer case engages the front drive shaft from stop up to a certain speed, this means you are in 4wd.
Above a certain speed, the transfer case disengages the front drive shaft (but front hubs are still engaged) until (a) slip occurs or (b) you floor it and it downshifts, then it send power to the front again.
This operation is shown clearly in the power distribution screen and when power is sent to the front axle you can feel the drivetrain vibration. In summary, the power distribution screen is correct.
Above a certain speed, the transfer case disengages the front drive shaft (but front hubs are still engaged) until (a) slip occurs or (b) you floor it and it downshifts, then it send power to the front again.
This operation is shown clearly in the power distribution screen and when power is sent to the front axle you can feel the drivetrain vibration. In summary, the power distribution screen is correct.
This! Much better explanation than I did in the other thread.
40MPH is the lowest I have seen the front go to zero in 4A, very light throttle.
It actually never really engages or disengages the front drive shaft, because the Center Diff in these is not on off, it is TOD(Torque on Demand), and clutch based. It can go from Zero to 50% and any in between at the demand of the computer.
As far as 4A staying on…and so forth between mode changes and power cycles. That is well documented.
If you are say in Sport, and turn the Truck off. If you start it back up an hour later, you will be in Normal, but with 4A engaged.
If you are in Sport, and turn it back Normal before you turn the Truck off, it will go back to 2H. You will be in Normal when you start back up.
If you do the first scenario, and want to get back to Normal without 4A, you do not need to change back to the mode you were in before, and switch back, just merely hit the 2H button. The mode has already been reset to Normal by the new start up, you just need to return to 2H.
If you are say in Sport, and turn the Truck off. If you start it back up an hour later, you will be in Normal, but with 4A engaged.
If you are in Sport, and turn it back Normal before you turn the Truck off, it will go back to 2H. You will be in Normal when you start back up.
If you do the first scenario, and want to get back to Normal without 4A, you do not need to change back to the mode you were in before, and switch back, just merely hit the 2H button. The mode has already been reset to Normal by the new start up, you just need to return to 2H.
Calidad
Full Access Members
So all awd or 4wh will bind and have noise especially on surfaces that aren’t slippery. I wouldn’t run it in anything other than 2wh when on clear pavement. Even wet pavement ideally 2wh only.
Having said that my stock OEM tires even with 15,000 on them were horrendous even on wet bay area highways. I couldn’t stand them anymore and got BFG Trail Terrains which are a hybrid A/T 3peak rated tire for SUVs. The difference was massive totally different vehicle. Even the Tahoe trips on the typical packed icy trash secondary roads which demanded snow mode 4hi just to get around with lots of sliding. The new tires I could go everywhere in South Lake in 2wh with virtually zero sliding. Massive difference can’t even compare the two tires.
I only run 4whl modes when traction is an issue for 2wh. So Tahoe trips snow mode goes on at the chain control check and off the moment roads are generally clear. These 4whl systems use clutches to drive power to tires with traction and using them when road surfaces are not an issue just creates heat and excess wear on the system.
Most definitely treat the stock tires as complete trash especially for Tahoe conditions. Even in 4whl the stock tires severely hampered the expedition vs new 3peak tires we’re better in 2wh than the OEM’s were in 4whl..
My neighbor just got a Expedition and I warned him about the stock tires. He’s a car guy made a week long trip family snow trip. He got back and told me yep tires are terrible and on the list to replace. He said even snowy roads he struggled to get the Expedition to move a few time. Same issue I had in Tahoe with my old stock tires. The same places my old tires were just not able to get it done in 4whl my new tires could easily do in 2whl. Tires are a huge deal even with 4x4 systems.
Having said that my stock OEM tires even with 15,000 on them were horrendous even on wet bay area highways. I couldn’t stand them anymore and got BFG Trail Terrains which are a hybrid A/T 3peak rated tire for SUVs. The difference was massive totally different vehicle. Even the Tahoe trips on the typical packed icy trash secondary roads which demanded snow mode 4hi just to get around with lots of sliding. The new tires I could go everywhere in South Lake in 2wh with virtually zero sliding. Massive difference can’t even compare the two tires.
I only run 4whl modes when traction is an issue for 2wh. So Tahoe trips snow mode goes on at the chain control check and off the moment roads are generally clear. These 4whl systems use clutches to drive power to tires with traction and using them when road surfaces are not an issue just creates heat and excess wear on the system.
Most definitely treat the stock tires as complete trash especially for Tahoe conditions. Even in 4whl the stock tires severely hampered the expedition vs new 3peak tires we’re better in 2wh than the OEM’s were in 4whl..
My neighbor just got a Expedition and I warned him about the stock tires. He’s a car guy made a week long trip family snow trip. He got back and told me yep tires are terrible and on the list to replace. He said even snowy roads he struggled to get the Expedition to move a few time. Same issue I had in Tahoe with my old stock tires. The same places my old tires were just not able to get it done in 4whl my new tires could easily do in 2whl. Tires are a huge deal even with 4x4 systems.
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