Automatic transmission isn't

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hjackson05

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I have a 98 XPY with 5.4L 4 wheel drive. One morning, transmission did not shift automatically to 2nd gear at the normal RPM. Each day thereafter the shift point was at increasingly higher RPMs until I had to shift it manually. It has gotten progressively worse to the point that I have to shift manually thru all three gears. Truck only has 71k miles. Any ideas?
 

CARO'S98EB

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you have 4 gears . might be a trans range sensor problem. could be a pcm or wiring problem also.
 
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hjackson05

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Thanks for your reply, Caro. It has 4 gears but you only shift thru 3. The trans range sensor seems like a logical place to start. What is a PCM? I have to drop the pan. Is there anything I should check before re-installing the pan?
 

masterhacker

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The ford tranny gremlin strikes again... dont want to start a war but ive never had good luck with ford trannys

I belive pcm=powertrain control module
 

JUST4FUN

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try changing fuel filter. this happend with the cop cars i worked on
plugged filter = ok pressure, no volume trans acting goofy
 
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hjackson05

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try changing fuel filter. this happend with the cop cars i worked on
plugged filter = ok pressure, no volume trans acting goofy

Interesting. I was going to replace that as it is next on the to do list, not to correct this but because it' s rusty. More info - I just replaced all brake lines 2 weeks before this issue reared it's ugly head. One line was so badly rusted It crumbled with light pressure from my little finger
 

WCAWI

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First, what trans do you have in it? I'm guessing the E4OD. Is the pan real long or is it more square?
 
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hjackson05

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It is the longer one with 1 corner cut out and 20 bolts. Advance auto part # FK-179 - Same filter is used on both the E40D and the 4R100. I'm Changing the fluid now will try to determine which it is. Any way to determine which one it is? Thanks for your help
 

WCAWI

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OK so you have the E4OD. Its a good chance you have stuck valves in the acumulator valve body. Thats the valve body section all the way in the front when you have the pan off you can see it. As long as you have the pan off changing fluid you should take that section off and apart to clean and check for stuck valves. Transgo makes a kit with steel valves to fix this problem.
 
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hjackson05

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Thank You WCAWI. Took a look at Transgo. Looks intimidating with all the springs to take apart. Can it be done without taking apart - I'm thinking in place and brake cleaner, remove it and brake cleaner without taking apart? All data shows
 
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WCAWI

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It really should be taken apart. Once you have the accumulator body off, you could take it to a trans shop and have them check for stuck valves and clean it and put the kit in. They could confirm if that is the problem. It isnt bad to do yourself though. Just have a clean area to work on it and do one valve assembly at a time. How much debris was in the pan and magnet? If it was a lot you may have bigger problems.
 
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hjackson05

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Virtually no debris in pan. The magnet was completely covered, however, with a 1/16" layer of goo. I was surprised that the fluid was pinkish on dipstick but very black after draining. I am opting for replacing all 17 quarts rather than just the transmission.
 

WCAWI

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Thats about normal on the magnet. I'd do the valve fix and stick it together and try it.
 
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hjackson05

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I think it’s sort of fixed. Did a complete fluid change, removed accumulator valve, flushed it with brake cleaner, flushed with trans fluid twice and drained in case of residual cleaner, refilled it and added Lucas Trans Fix for good measure. It is shifting automatically but RPMs and speeds are higher at shift points than they should be. When I move shift lever to 1st détente the pointer stops in center of D. It engages 90% of the time but does not shift automatically. I haven’t run it higher than 3k but it does shift manually at 3. There seems to be a second détente where the pointer will stop on the right edge of the D. If I start at that détente, it shifts automatically thru all gears @ 25-2800 RPMs.

When I bought this, the shift lever was extremely tight but smooth. Now it's loose- so I'm thinking something mechanical isn't working but cannot see how the 2 issues could be related
 

WCAWI

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It sounds like you still have sticky accum valves. Did you take all of the valves out of the accum body and clean? The indicator cable is just sticking not showing the correct position. It has no bearing on shift points. Count the clicks when you shift it PRND to make sure you're in drive and test.
 
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