Auxiliary power points...amperage?

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carymccarr

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Anyone know what the amperage is of the 110 power outlet? Manual says 150W but nothing else. I want to see if I can keep a small corded vacuum in the vehicle and use it in that outlet. Thanks
 

flying68

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Anyone know what the amperage is of the 110 power outlet? Manual says 150W but nothing else. I want to see if I can keep a small corded vacuum in the vehicle and use it in that outlet. Thanks
Power = Current × Voltage
150 W = I x 110
I = 1.36 Amps (1.25 A if your device is 120 V)
 

1970Maverick

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Power = Current × Voltage
150 W = I x 110
I = 1.36 Amps (1.25 A if your device is 120 V)
What is it that you are trying to plug in? If you get down to the nitty gritty, you have to consider the power factor (PF) of the load you are trying to power. I would assume that Ford was thinking people are going to plug in an electronic device and not a light bulb or heater. Also, keep in mind that most spec tags are rated in a range when stating volts/amps/watts. You would probably be fine with a 150 watt electronic load but not a 150 watt incandescent light bulb.
 

bushpilot

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Anyone know what the amperage is of the 110 power outlet? Manual says 150W but nothing else. I want to see if I can keep a small corded vacuum in the vehicle and use it in that outlet. Thanks

its a joke! it wont even run my MacBook Pro 90w laptop power supply
 

AAOO

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Won’t run a PlayStation 4 Pro either. I had to use one of my inverters. Weak sauce Ford!
 

flying68

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Won’t run a PlayStation 4 Pro either. I had to use one of my inverters. Weak sauce Ford!
It runs our XBox 1S just fine. The thing is many electronic devices are sensitive to voltage and frequency stability. The inverter that comes from the factory is probably not a pure sine wave inverter and the voltage most likely fluctuates a bit with load. So depending on your devices built in AC to DC converter, it may find the power just not stable enough.
 

wakeboarder

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It runs our XBox 1S just fine. The thing is many electronic devices are sensitive to voltage and frequency stability. The inverter that comes from the factory is probably not a pure sine wave inverter and the voltage most likely fluctuates a bit with load. So depending on your devices built in AC to DC converter, it may find the power just not stable enough.
From post 22 in the thread below, you can see that it is not a pure sine wave inverter. https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/120v-ac-outlet-wont-charge-laptop.40544/page-3#post-391510
 

bushpilot

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Must have missed that thread, but basically confirms that it depends on the device you plug in, some are more tolerant than others.

I disagree - when I plugged in my MacBook Pro (13 inch) POWER SUPPLY (w/out the laptop connected) the inverter light blinks and eventually faults! the sensitive is NOT in my laptop but rather in the f'in pos ford inverter
 

Adieu

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Won’t run a PlayStation 4 Pro either. I had to use one of my inverters. Weak sauce Ford!

Of course it won't, it's basically a desktop PC. Look on the back, I'm guessing it draws 300-500W
 

AAOO

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Of course it won't, it's basically a desktop PC. Look on the back, I'm guessing it draws 300-500W

Good guess, 310W max draw. At minimum I would expect 400-500W in a rig like this. Especially with the rear entertainment system option.
 

Tys expedition

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The f150 forums cover the inverter issues pretty thoroughly and the consensus on there is to separately wire in a pure sine wave inverter.

I wish we had a good solution for a second battery. I hate wiring anything to the starter battery and factory harnesses. With a house battery you could add a stand alone fuse block and run anything you want and not worry about issues With the factory harness wire size and amp rating.
 

flying68

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I disagree - when I plugged in my MacBook Pro (13 inch) POWER SUPPLY (w/out the laptop connected) the inverter light blinks and eventually faults! the sensitive is NOT in my laptop but rather in the f'in pos ford inverter
Have you tried anything else, other than your power supply? Like I had mentioned before, we have run several things just fine on ours, including a XBox One S with no issues. You may have a faulty inverter, or maybe the Macbook power supply doesn't care for square wave power. Some electronic devices are much more sensitive to the input power than others.
 

Shaffer9

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I have been following the inverter threads for a while. So yesterday I had my laptop plugged into the 110 outlet while riding in the front seat and working....Would not charge. We stopped to get some gas and I had just the electronics on without the engine and it started actually charging the computer. I don't know if there is something obvious I'm missing but I thought it was interesting. I guess maybe with all the extras running while driving, the battery might not have enough juice.
 

AKentPhoto

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Like I had mentioned before, we have run several things just fine on ours, including a XBox One S with no issues.

Regular XBox One is a no-go... My laptop doesn't work either, but I'm pretty sure it has a 200w power supply.
 
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bushpilot

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Have you tried anything else, other than your power supply? Like I had mentioned before, we have run several things just fine on ours, including a XBox One S with no issues. You may have a faulty inverter, or maybe the Macbook power supply doesn't care for square wave power. Some electronic devices are much more sensitive to the input power than others.

The MacBook power supplies I have are not faulty (I have several of varying wattage demand).
I tried several MacBook power supplies - the results were the same...nada.

I use these SAME power supplies and MacBooks in our motor coach - they work fine....they do not require a smooth (sine wave)....the whole idea of these power supplies is to take ac voltage of varying voltage & frequencies and convert them to dc charge current. Ive used these MacBooks and power supplies all over the world and in several different vehicles (including my '17 F350)
 

tweakeraz

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I have been following the inverter threads for a while. So yesterday I had my laptop plugged into the 110 outlet while riding in the front seat and working....Would not charge. We stopped to get some gas and I had just the electronics on without the engine and it started actually charging the computer. I don't know if there is something obvious I'm missing but I thought it was interesting. I guess maybe with all the extras running while driving, the battery might not have enough juice.
This was my experience recently as well. My laptop charger..135w appeared to work when vehicle was electronics on but not engine on. When engine on, it always faults out. I had used it previously with no issue, but realized since then that I did not have the engine on that time either. Was sitting in parking lot with windows down and working, but engine off.

I am also thinking that supply to inverter is diminished when vehicle running thus causing inverter to not meet stated output? Or interference of sorts with entire system when running? I have seen nearby electrical sub stations cause interference to DC systems in the summer when the entire area is running their HVAC. You can meter all day long on site and see no issue, but it's there and you can see it happening with the rectifiers cycling on and off. Complain enough and power company says no issue found, but the problem also magically disappears.

Since wife and I regularly work from the road when vacationing, might just need to look at a dedicated power source that can handle the devices when the vehicle is in motion.
 
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